Just installed J springs/35x12.50x15's

[CreeperSleeper]

You are gonna want to run extended brake lines and longer shocks to get the most out of that suspension... As for castor correction, I still don't have any after 3.5 years. It was never bad enough for me to worry about. Now with 37" bias Iroks and a new daughter, I will fix my castor!

 

[blunt]

I don't see what's fishy? They either clear or they don't and mine fits with about 1/2" clearance in the front and about 1/4" in the rear. Once they are bolted up it's not like they are gonna suddenly move unless the wheel or spacer comes loose. In that case you have bigger problems to begin with.

Just my 2 cents

I'm thinking that you either have smaller brakes or they have been clearanced already. FZJs run 16" wheels because of brake clearance. How they fit without modification makes me wonder...that's all.

 

[CreeperSleeper]

He is running 2" BS on a steel wheel... He probably didn't need to clearance at all. I bet it's tight but possible.

 

[95ToyCruiser]

I plan on doing shocks and extended stainless break lines in the near future. As well as castor correction in the semi-near future. I can't save enough to buy everything at once, I end up going to the bar and spending it

This way it's driveable and wheelable. The tires fully tuck in the rear with no rubbing whatsoever, so no need to drop the bumpstops. The front bumper needs trimmed a bit, but other than that everything fits nicely.

Question?

Does anyone make a purpose built shock for the FJ/FZJ 80 that is longer than the OME L's? They're only 2" longer than sock at full extention which isn't that much seeing as how my stockers are nearly maxed out when I'm sitting on flat ground. I want the most droop as I can get (once I get brake lines of course).

My # from center of the axle to bottom of the flare are as follows:

DS Front: 23.75" PS Front: 24"
DS Rear: 24" PS Rear: 24"

Prior to the lift I was at around 19" in the front and 18" in the rear, I have the exact before #'s written down, just not with me.

I am waiting to do sliders and a front bumper/winch before deciding what to do with the front.

Either spacers or some Slee or OME competition 4"ers.

Thanks for the feedback. I got a ton more to do, just wanted to show that it is more than possible to run 35" tires with only J srings (if you don't have winch/bumper) as well as being able to fit 15's with no clearancing, only wheel spacers.

Because I have heard differently on both topics.

Thank you,

Shane

 

[mtrdrms]

If you ever decide to get rid of your front flares please let me know. Other than that, nice looking rig!

 

[CreeperSleeper]

From my experence, you don't need a longer shock on the rear unless you capture the springs. As for the front, you could gain a little, but the OME shocks work so well, I wouldn't bother.

 

[blunt]

He is running 2" BS on a steel wheel... He probably didn't need to clearance at all. I bet it's tight but possible.

Wow, this is news to me. I'm going to be thinking of ways to fit my Krawlers off my FJ40 now...

 

[95ToyCruiser]

Wow, this is news to me. I'm going to be thinking of ways to fit my Krawlers off my FJ40 now...

If you have them handy just try and put them on and see how much spacing you will need.

I just set the wheel on the hub and instead of putting the wheel studs throught the holes in the wheels I let the wheel mounting surface set on the studs. Then I made sure that it was setting flush and saw how much clearance I had.

Since the stock studs are 1" I knew that if I installed 1" WS I would be fine.

Try it out and let us know how it turns out, and I can assure you I don't have 2" of back spacing, it's 3.5" at the very least, with 2" you probably wouldn't even need the spacers.

Good luck!!!

 

[95ToyCruiser]

Here's a pic of the rear and the front caliper clearance, the front didn't turn out good cause of the tie rod, and I'd estimate my BS at 3", I gotta take them off after work to balance them, I'll take good measurements then.

The first is the rear and the second is the front.

Hope this helps..

 

[CreeperSleeper]

*snip*I can assure you I don't have 2" of back spacing, it's 3.5" at the very least, with 2" you probably wouldn't even need the spacers. *snip*

I was including your spacers.

 

[Adam B]

You don't need extended brake lines. Just play around with the brackets and do some hand-bending of the hard lines and you're good to go.

Looks good. I chose to add 30mm front coil spacers to level mine out a bit more. The rear is still a little bit higher than the front when I'm unloaded (90% of the time, as it's my only vehicle). I routinely carry up to about 500lbs in the back and a 120lb boat on top and it still looks level when it's loaded. With the J's and spacers I used Slee plates on the front axle and the steering is good. This put me in perfect territory to run a DC front shaft. Great way to piss away money AND you get the added bonus of having to remove the bloody thing to grease it properly......

 

[95ToyCruiser]

I used Slee plates on the front axle and the steering is good. This put me in perfect territory to run a DC front shaft. Great way to **** away money AND you get the added bonus of having to remove the bloody thing to grease it properly......

This is the delema I'm having, my steering is not THAT bad. I mean I've driven much worse. But I would like to get the castor back into spec.

I was thinking of cutting the knuckles off and turing them to achieve the correct castor. This way my DS would still be in line and I would have correct castor. I just don't wanna go with a DC DS cause of the $ as well as the added maintenance and the fact that you have one more U-joint to worry about.

I have to tear down the driver's side knuckle anyway to do a burf, so I figure that I'll just tear down the pass side AGAIN adn repack it while I'm in there and rotate the knuckles for free.

I should be able to measure my castor now, then just turn it the correct amount when appart, correct?

Just a thought, I'm not one to do things the easy way and I usually end up doing this afterwards

 

[GW Nugget]

So how is your build coming a long?
I will be putting 15s on also.

 

[SNLC]

3" bs might just work, might. The WS is obviously what is doing it for ya. I have got a 3.65" bs wheel on FZJ axles and had to grind down the calipers a bit.

Exactly how my truck looked when I got it, ie bad stink bug. A 2" metaltech spacer will level it out nicely.

And no castor issues, driving it like that no probs!? You guys must be crazy! Granted I am 2" taller in front than the OP but with zero castor correction and about 4" of lift in front the castor is out by more than 11*. Driving the truck that way where I live is absolutely sketchy.

No stink bug with J's in the rear, 35x12.5's on 15" wheels with 3.65" bs.

Cheers

 

[Jvoight]

In regards to the stink bug issue has anyone installed the OME rear springs Slee sold me calling them "level stance" rears... I ordered the 2.5 OME lift and opted to try the level stance springs. The kit has shown up and the rear springs box is labeled 100 series... I suppose that is the spring that is used to achieve the level stance...? I'll be installing the kit (with castor correction) prob tomorrow. I threw on my new wheels 18x10's with 35"x12.50" km2's ahead of schedule (just how it worked out). So here is my '92 pre lift with 35"s.

I'll post after lift pics soon.

Curious how the stance will come out...


I apologize if this isn't correct as far as chiming in on a somewhat related subject already mentioned in the thread

Cheers!

~John
Oregon

 

[GW Nugget]

3" bs might just work, might. The WS is obviously what is doing it for ya. I have got a 3.65" bs wheel on FZJ axles and had to grind down the calipers a bit.

Exactly how my truck looked when I got it, ie bad stink bug. A 2" metaltech spacer will level it out nicely.

And no castor issues, driving it like that no probs!? You guys must be crazy! Granted I am 2" taller in front than the OP but with zero castor correction and about 4" of lift in front the castor is out by more than 11*. Driving the truck that way where I live is absolutely sketchy.

No stink bug with J's in the rear, 35x12.5's on 15" wheels with 3.65" bs.

Cheers

I like your color scheme white top & trim.
Please post more pics.
Are those steel or aluminum rims with the 3.65" BS?
Please give full specs on lift. Js with 2" spacers in front??? What shocks? Did you have to do drive line, brake line & pan rod mods etc? Is the V8 heavier than the straight 6?

 

[95ToyCruiser]

So how is your build coming a long?
I will be putting 15s on also.

Oh it's coming haha, ditched the 15's (kept bending wheels) and went back to the stockers with 345/75/16 KM2's...

Oh and lost some body and gained some body damage

Also got a new one (93 that had a thrown rod) got her running, so it's been my DD for 6 months now...

 

[GW Nugget]

Oh yes the 345s... how do you like those?
You bent the steelies?
The red is the new white?

 

[GW Nugget]

This thread has been very educating.
Thanks here is my tight little ride with 35s on 15x8 rims.

I have 1.5 spacers & 3.5" BS. Way to far out. My tires aren't tucking in.

I will be reducing the spacer size & repost my findings...
Here's a pic of the calipers & rim.