All Lights working except low beams (2 Viewers)

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Mr Hands

SILVER Star
Joined
Sep 17, 2022
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3
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Location
Boise, Idaho
I know there are a bunch of threads regarding headlights etc, but none quite match up with what I’m seeing in my ‘81 FJ43 and hoping for a bit of a crazy check before I start ripping out wires.

Low beams were working great until a couple weeks ago. All of a sudden, they just stopped.

All of my lights are working with the exception of the low beams, to include high beams and running lights. Tested with a second light and with a multimeter, but no current to the low beams at the socket in the front. Seems to be current getting out through dimmer switch.

Attempted remedies from other threads with no success:
-Cleaned fuse box contacts
-Cleaned dimmer switch
-Cleaned ground contacts

I’m assuming at this point it is likely a broken wire somewhere in the loom. Is there anything additional I can do or look for before having to cut into it?

Thank you all.

Very Respectfully,
Mr. Hands
 
Further adding to the mystery (if I’m finding the right cables). There is a connector on the passenger side from the harness inside the cab to the harness outside the cab.

At the dimmer switch, getting about 12v, at the connector 4v, and .4ish at the low beam plug. There is a higher voltage on the low beams when the high beams are on. I’m assuming that this is likely due to bad wiring the whole way?

Still a relative novice; any assistance would be appreciated!
 
unfortunately this was a puzzle that wouldn’t let me sleep. 🙃

Isolated the issue to be between the dimmer switch and the passenger side connector with some very janky connecting of extra wire directly across the seats. Unfortunately, it does not look like there is any easy way to pull the loom without doing more damage that’ll I’ll have to fix.

I’m assuming the best option short of pulling the loom is to run a new wire across? Or is it worth it to pull the loom, replace, and then re-wrap.

Any advice would be welcome.
 
How purest are you? Cutting, then installing the correct wire colors followed by re-taping or add new wire on the outside and put every thing inside plastic loom.
 
fortunately, it does not look like there is any easy way to pull the loom without doing more damage that’ll I’ll have to fix.
This is one of things pay now or pay later. Take the time and make all the corrections now or just keep having to make repairs later on. Personally would rather spend the time and do the job right the first time instead of having a bunch of headaches later on.
 
unfortunately this was a puzzle that wouldn’t let me sleep. 🙃

Isolated the issue to be between the dimmer switch and the passenger side connector with some very janky connecting of extra wire directly across the seats. Unfortunately, it does not look like there is any easy way to pull the loom without doing more damage that’ll I’ll have to fix.

I’m assuming the best option short of pulling the loom is to run a new wire across? Or is it worth it to pull the loom, replace, and then re-wrap.

Any advice would be welcome.

If the wiring is as bad as you describe, it's probably best to pull the harness and go thru the whole harness. It's not that difficult, just label the connectors. Lay it out on a large table or a sheet of plywood.
What's the history of your FJ43? Restorations and repairs from other countries can be sketchy, especially from South and Central America. Those vehicles usually have had a hard life with limited parts availability. Unfortunately a lot of the repairs can be rigged with various non stk stuff and tend to have a lot of lipstick. Coolerman sells color correct wiring and might have some plugs and connectors. He has wiring diagram for US spec 40's, but I'm not sure about fj43's

Cruiser Wiring - http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/wiringmainframe.htm
 
how did you clean the dimmer?

Did you clean the light switch as well?
Took apart the whole dimmer/light switch and cleaned all of the contacts. Have good power coming directly from the switch, just significantly lower volts (12 vs 4) by the time I get to the connector by the passenger side.

This is one of things pay now or pay later. Take the time and make all the corrections now or just keep having to make repairs later on. Personally would rather spend the time and do the job right the first time instead of having a bunch of headaches later on.
If the wiring is as bad as you describe, it's probably best to pull the harness and go thru the whole harness. It's not that difficult, just label the connectors. Lay it out on a large table or a sheet of plywood.
What's the history of your FJ43? Restorations and repairs from other countries can be sketchy, especially from South and Central America. Those vehicles usually have had a hard life with limited parts availability. Unfortunately a lot of the repairs can be rigged with various non stk stuff and tend to have a lot of lipstick. Coolerman sells color correct wiring and might have some plugs and connectors. He has wiring diagram for US spec 40's, but I'm not sure about fj43's

Cruiser Wiring - http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/wiringmainframe.htm
This is kind of what I was afraid of. All of the other connections work great; good power etc.

Picked up the 43 when I was stationed in Bahrain; had Saudi origins. It’s pretty beautiful otherwise; fires right up in the cold, very minimal rust, and drives like a dream. Restoration work was done mostly by myself as a sort of project manager (no garage in Bahrain and labor is cheap); only big ticket ks PO put Middle East Summer sized AC unit in there. Most of the wiring I’ve found so far is lining up with the diagrams like what coolerman has.

Would y’all recommend just pulling the underway portion of the harness or just spring for a whole new harness? Not sure if it is a best all in one go deal or piecemeal it over time.

Photos as payment for the help!
IMG_4317.jpeg
a9a72cf7-28fa-4c72-bce4-7d631d314669.jpeg
 
How purest are you? Cutting, then installing the correct wire colors followed by re-taping or add new wire on the outside and put every thing inside plastic loom.
With this car, not at all. The PO basically made it look like a Lexus on the inside vice the likely military vehicle it started life as.
397d0f26-782d-478f-9a1e-04f90bcd7eb0.jpeg
 
You should do it the "right way", your rig looks nice. Monkeying with 50 years old wires often causes new issues and new harness could last until gasoline is banned or non existent. In the spring I'll be cleaning and inspecting every connector. Corrosion often crawls up a wire under the insulation at the crimped fitting. Corrosion is resistance which means voltage drop.
 
I had found more harness issue from the cowl into the engine Bay Area than harness issues in cab

If it is an issue with a connector you’ll most likely have problems with the other wires within that same connector later

Most likely it’s just a bad contact within the connector

If you feel around at each connector and move them about checking to see if the 4v goes up (or down) each time you can find the culprit without pulling everything appart

Once you find the right one clean and dielectric grease the connector

Any and all connector that are easy to get to in up wrapped sections clean and dielectric them while your at it

Finding a new harness may only be possible in Middle East

My 2c
 
If it were me (and I just went through this 6 months ago), I’d pull the harness, order what I need from @Coolerman, repair/ upgrade, and re-install.

If I need it fixed quickly, I’d temporarily run a new wire and tape it up until I could remove it all and repair it like I did above.
 
Really appreciate all of the advice! Short term going to run a wire to get around the damaged section just to get the car drivable since it is getting dark early.

Also will give me some time to research and plan for rebuilding the existing vs replacing the whole harness with an aftermarket. Like y’all have said, guessing this is not the last just the first noticed electrical issues and worth it to nip it in the bud.

Supposing it is a 🍌 🍌🍌 or more project and likely is going to require moving the existing AC blower to gain access behind the dash.

Thank you all again for all the advice! I truly appreciate it!!
 

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