AISAN Carb issues (1 Viewer)

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i got the second diaphragm and installed, sucked on the port and held my finger over it and it held vacuum ( I lost the c clip in the process, anyone know the size, I ordered 14 size kit off amazon with the following sizes 1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm, 3.5mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 7mm, 8mm, 9mm, 10mm, 12mm, 15mm ). I took it around the block 0 to 200ft incline and it didn't open(and it didn't fall off the rod), wasn't really gassing it though, have to do highway driving tomorrow so will see if it opens.
 
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Is this the correct position of the valve, green on the left black on the right, just noticed that mine is in the opposite direction

carb.JPG
 
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Really, I found that image on the desmog how to, car runs better in the way it's setup in the image, way more power...
 
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i decided to hit the carb with carb cleaner and it started running a lot better, took it for a drive put gas in it, hit the highway, felt like it had more power, but now it is not idling, anything I can check before pulling carb out and rebuilding?
 
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So I couldn't completely rebuild the carb, I couldn't remove the screw that is on the bottom that holds The fuel bowl to the lower portion together. I cleaned with carb cleaner and blew compressed air through all the ports, I changed all the gaskets, etc that the kit came with. It's running after putting everything together, but the second barrel is still not opening.
 
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i noticed that the fuel in the sight glass may be a little low and not level with the screws, which adjustment on the float level to increase the fuel in the fsm is it A the 6mm(i measured with feeler gauge and it was at 6mm or B the float lip, if it is A does increasing the float lip to more then 6mm provide more fuel or is it the opposite?
 

g-man

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A is the measurement of the float when fuel in the bowl is full, the needle valve closes to shut off fuel coming into the bowl. B is the position of the float when fuel is depleted in the bowl, the float is lowered and the needle valve is fully open...bring fresh fuel into the bowl. 6mm is a lot to measure with a feeler gauge. Most carb kits come with a small paper ruler.
1570206962807.png
 

g-man

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Really if your fuel is in the site glass and close to the center ..that's close enough. The manual says "about even" in step 8 and I assume we are talking about the margins shown here.
1570207359582.png
 

g-man

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On the rear of the carb is a primary throttle rod, if you advance that all the way there is a cam that turns and it should contact the secondary rod enough to unlock it...or get it started to turn. Then you should be able to manually pull up on the secondary vacuum linkage and open the secondary throttle. Can you do that? Just making sure the linkage is correct and not binding.
 
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Yes, the linkage is working correctly, second barrel manually opens, the fuel level is below the peak of the W in the sight glassif that makes sense, should it be higher, kind of below the level that is in the fsm
 

g-man

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good for the linkage. Now is the truck pulling vacuum on the secondary at full throttle?

the float adjustment should correct the fuel level in the sight glass. Yes you need it up to the peak in the W.

blow through the fuel inlet to make sure the needle valve and seat are not leaking down.
 
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How would I know if it is pulling vacuum at full throttle, I put the paper clip on and it hasn't moved
 

2mbb

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So I couldn't completely rebuild the carb, I couldn't remove the screw that is on the bottom that holds The fuel bowl to the lower portion together. I cleaned with carb cleaner and blew compressed air through all the ports, I changed all the gaskets, etc that the kit came with. It's running after putting everything together, but the second barrel is still not opening.
get a small impact driver and use a JIS screwdriver bit. a regular phillips driver is designed to "tear out" when over torqued. do a search in tools forum for vessel tools. some of our MUD vendors sell this stuff too.
 

g-man

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How would I know if it is pulling vacuum at full throttle, I put the paper clip on and it hasn't moved
looking at this image #11 looks to be the secondary diaphram and looks like vacuum comes through the pump jet (4) ?? Or maybe the vacuum passage is under the pump jet. You'll have to get the carb apart and go step by step through the fsm. Been awhile since i did mine. You can put a magnet on a small steel punch to help get the check balls out.
1570221340012.png
 

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