Aisan/Asco Long Body Locking Hubs

[Poser]

Or, instead of running 08/75-12/78 outer front axle stub, you simply ‘upgrade’ to the far more common, shorter, outer front axle stub.......

 

[Fast Eddy]

Or, instead of running 08/75-12/78 outer front axle stub, you simply ‘upgrade’ to the far more common, shorter, outer front axle stub.......

It's obviously a good idea, but more expensive, and if I was upgrading, I'd want to go all the way. That was a $1000 bill before the locker.

 

[Fast Eddy]

I've been holding out for a set of longbody, but here's a set of NOS Aisin hubs I got a while back cheap.

And I suck? Can you please send me those flange bolts?

 

[PhrogsPhorever]

And I suck? Can you please send me those flange bolts?

I might have some extra floating around left over from an old project. They're all yours if I still have them.

 

[Fast Eddy]

Fast Eddy,
Is it the rear 80 e-locking diff you are installing in the front ?

Yup .

 

[FJ40Jim]

I've been holding out for a set of longbody, but here's a set of NOS Aisin hubs I got a while back cheap. Great shape

View attachment 222727

Any idea what application those are for?
I've seen those cutouts on the mounting flange somewhere? Montero maybe?

 

[Poser]

It's obviously a good idea, but more expensive, and if I was upgrading, I'd want to go all the way. That was a $1000 bill before the locker.

What are you talking about?



Chromo axles?




Sure alloy axles are more money, compared to stock components. However, many people do not need the strength of the alloy axles, and only want to upgrade to disc brakes. For this, there is no reason to spend a moment making any kind of custom spacer, or trying to find custom hardware, or alignment/drive dowels, simply to make a far less available outer axle stub be compatible with a later, shorter-bodied OEM lockout.




You can find late model outer stubs for not a lot of cash, (I have seen pairs of them out here for less than 100.00us shipped) which would allow you to use the more common lockouts, and not have to find the far more obscure, longer bodied OEM lock out.



If I had a stock 08/75-12/78 40/55 series that was not going to see any real trail use, sure I may look for the longer bodied OEM lockouts for it. However, if I did not feel like dropping the cash on the goofy lockouts and did an axle service, the first thing that would be replaced would be the goofy, longer outer axle stubs. I am sure that there are people out here who want them.





BTW-

Powder coating will chip just like regular paint when the inner lip of the steel wheel hits it during mounting/dismounting of the wheel on the hub, or when the lock out rubs against a log or rock......so be careful.

 

[Poser]

Any idea what application those are for?
I've seen those cutouts on the mounting flange somewhere? Montero maybe?

80 series wheel bearing hubs are configured like that flange.


I would be surprised that Toyota does not have another wheel bearing hub similar to them used on another model.

Those lockouts were for sale on Ebay.DE.

 

[PhrogsPhorever]

Any idea what application those are for?
I've seen those cutouts on the mounting flange somewhere? Montero maybe?

IIRC from when I bought them, the guy were pulled off of an '81 FJ40 when the truck was sold by the dealer back in the day and have been sitting in a box ever since. But I can't verify that and like Poser said, prolly from a newer truck, still pretty nice and good to save for a rainy day and the 80 I'm lookin at

 

[Fast Eddy]

Spacing out the short hubs to fit long f'ing birfs would be kinda dumb.

I looked around for shorter birfs. I didn't find any for under $100. Mine are fine and I've been told I won't likely break them with my little tires and limited wheeling. I looked around for Aisin hubs. Again, not cheap. I came across these, and they weren't outrageously priced and they're a cool old Toyota-ey addition to my cool old Toyota.

I'll save the extra $$s for a future upgrade to Longs.

I respect your opinion and I've never said you were wrong, but I consider price-performance, not just performance. This is the same as when I upgraded to my h41/3-speed case combo. Sure, an Orion would be stronger, but at a higher cost. I'm pretty happy with what I got and the $500 bill in my pocket.

The Longfields/Orion/Spring-over is a different, more expensive, more hard-core rig than what I'm building.

 

[Poser]

So what is the custom inner front axle needed for the Toyota e-locker costing you to have made?





Oh, and are you having a spare made while you are at it?

 

[Fast Eddy]

Any idea what application those are for?
I've seen those cutouts on the mounting flange somewhere? Montero maybe?

There's another thread here that mentions them, but there's an expired ebay link with no picture:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/190980-aisin-hub-compatibility.html

Here's a link to a Montero upgrade article showing a few pictures, but none with cutouts:

Mitsubishi Tech: Replacing Auto Hubs with Rebuilt Aisin Manuals

Here's a link with a picture showing some different hubs, but no cutouts:

AISIN Hubs - Identification and Rebuilding Guide. - - Off-Road.com

And Isuzu, no cutouts:

Installing Manual Hubs

Best thing I found was this link:

AISIN aftermarket

With this picture of the cutout lock-outs:

And this .pdf with all the Aisin part numbers.

http://www.aisinaftermarket.jp/en/toollibrary/pdf/AL070501HQ-19.pdf

Maybe you can get a number off of those hubs and x-reference it?

 

[Fast Eddy]

So what is the custom inner front axle needed for the Toyota e-locker costing you to have made?

Oh, and are you having a spare made while you are at it?

Longfield stocks this now; $125. Think I should get/carry a spare? I figure it's not the weak link in my front end.

The axle shaft and the locker are costing me $100 less than an ARB alone and I'd have to pay someone to install an ARB and buy a compressor.

 

[FJ40Jim]

80 series wheel bearing hubs are configured like that flange.
I would be surprised that Toyota does not have another wheel bearing hub similar to them used on another model.
Those lockouts were for sale on Ebay.DE.

Yes, that's it! 80 series drive flanges.

I can stop obsessing about that now...

 

[edwjmcgrath]

Reviving this old thread. I've got a pair of these Asco Long Bodys on my 78 Non US Drum 40 and I've just bought a set of MiniTruck brake parts to do a disk conversion. I have a choice of switching over my 40 birf/stub and the Asco hub or use the short hub and birf that come with the MiniTruck or I could use the mod to get the short birf to work in the long hub.

I guess what I'm asking is what is the appeal of this long body hub other than being fairly rare? Mine look fine and they work well, so I'm inclined to use them, but it sounds like people are paying more for these hubs than I paid for the entire brake assembly including birfs, hubs, knuckles, etc. What's the deal?

 

[Fast Eddy]

Reviving this old thread. I've got a pair of these Asco Long Bodys on my 78 Non US Drum 40 and I've just bought a set of MiniTruck brake parts to do a disk conversion. I have a choice of switching over my 40 birf/stub and the Asco hub or use the short hub and birf that come with the MiniTruck or I could use the mod to get the short birf to work in the long hub.

I guess what I'm asking is what is the appeal of this long body hub other than being fairly rare? Mine look fine and they work well, so I'm inclined to use them, but it sounds like people are paying more for these hubs than I paid for the entire brake assembly including birfs, hubs, knuckles, etc. What's the deal?

I'd switch to get the extra rock clearance at the hub face and sell the long ones to someone who needs them. Besides you'll have a better chance of someone having a spare birf if you need one on the trail. Poser's reasoning above is solid. You shouldn't need me to tell you.

Not sure what parts you're planning to use, but I'd want vented rotors.

 

[edwjmcgrath]

Thanks Eddy, I do light offroading-beach, fishing-not rock crawling, so I'm not likely to notice an extra half inch of clearance.

I think I understand the practical pro and con stuff. I could go either way. I posted because I've gotten a sense from a couple of posts that these long body hubs are in demand for some reason. I'm just trying to figure out if I'm going to regret getting rid of mine if I do.

--ed

and yes, I'm going vented rotors and IFS Calipers.

 

[Fast Eddy]

Thanks Eddy, I do light offroading-beach, fishing-not rock crawling, so I'm not likely to notice an extra half inch of clearance.

I think I understand the practical pro and con stuff. I could go either way. I posted because I've gotten a sense from a couple of posts that these long body hubs are in demand for some reason.

I got a set for a good price and they are cooler than the Warn's I had. The cons outweight the pros for all the reasons listed above. They are somewhat rare and are priced as such.

I still think that if you have a full set of short outers and matching hubs you should use those instead for parts availability down the road and you can sell the more precious long hubs and gain back some $$s for your conversion. That is if you're not attached to the rarity.

 

[edwjmcgrath]

Thanks, that's what I wanted to know.

 

[PabloCruise]

Reviving this old thread. I've got a pair of these Asco Long Bodys on my 78 Non US Drum 40 and I've just bought a set of MiniTruck brake parts to do a disk conversion. I have a choice of switching over my 40 birf/stub and the Asco hub or use the short hub and birf that come with the MiniTruck or I could use the mod to get the short birf to work in the long hub.

I guess what I'm asking is what is the appeal of this long body hub other than being fairly rare? Mine look fine and they work well, so I'm inclined to use them, but it sounds like people are paying more for these hubs than I paid for the entire brake assembly including birfs, hubs, knuckles, etc. What's the deal?

Are '78 non-US drum lock-outs the same as those for discs?