Airbox and Manifold air temp observations (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Tool,

Yes, second battery. Since the air box temp between me and the stock 80 are so different, there's definitely an air flow (or lack there of) problem.

I concur, insulating the air tube and the air canister may not be the cure due to heat soaking. Once the items are heat soaked, they'll stay hot as you're moving. At least w/o the insulaion, it stands to reason that the items will cool off faster.

Romer,
Did you talk about the scoop on another link? I was loosely thinking of adding a boat bilge air scoop to bring in fresh air vs installing a full blow snorkel. Or, I might just make my own snorkel.
 
If you wanted to get creative with air inlets, move your parking lights(next to the headlights) and turn signals into the bumper. You could then duct air from the parking light location around the battery box and have it circulate around the air cannister. You could even just have it dump into the engine bay, and it "may" have a reverse effect at low speed cruising, letting the hot air rise our through the openings. I guess if you got creative enough, you could still do the scoop, and route the drivers side parking light ducting across the intake plenum and out the scoop (turning the scoop around facing backwards. Find out what kind of fans/insulated ducting the nascar teams use on their brake ducts, intakes, etc. Would be expensive, but would definitely increase the cooling potential of the truck (at the expense of fan noise, battery drain, more stuff in the engine bay, etc.)
 
Some ebay links to provide a little visual.....carbon fiber is a beautiful thing...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NASC...mQQcategoryZ107061QQihZ006QQitemZ160161424713
ade4_1_b.JPG


ae3d_1.JPG






Heat insulating blanket:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NASCAR-SIMPSON-HEAT-THERMAL-PROTECTIVE-PAD-28-5-X22-5_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6779QQihZ006QQitemZ160168755276
f9ba_1.JPG

fa44_1.JPG


Cooling fans: PAIR OF DETMAR INLINE FANS- 4" IN- 3" OUT , 12 VOLT .

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NASCAR-DETMAR-INLINE-COOLING-FANS-4-IN-3-OUT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33600QQihZ006QQitemZ160163415372QQrdZ1

5acd_1_b.JPG
 
If you wanted to get creative with air inlets, move your parking lights(next to the headlights) and turn signals into the bumper. ...

The turn signal (under the headlights) are great candidates, the housings are shaped like vent scoops. The parking lights (next to the headlights) from my observation are not. The air flowing around the corner of the truck causes a suction, when they are removed air is pulled out and the fender well and air intake temps climb to fan output temp.
 
Someone might have to do a yarn test at speed with a chase vehicle snappin video/pics to see the flow. Even suction from the parking light location at speed may work, because it would have to pull air from inside the engine compartment. that effect may be enhanced if using the subaru hood scoop in a low pressure zone on the hood.

I guess it would really depend on how much cavitation would occur caused by the front bumper. It may create a low pressure area around the parking light areas, which could cause suction outward. I was also thinking the side lights because it would be a more direct pathway to the engine compartment, without having to route around batteries or sharp bends.

Where is Rusty Wallace and his Draft Track when we need him. he could show us where the clean air and dirty air would be.............
 
The turn signal (under the headlights) are great candidates, the housings are shaped like vent scoops. The parking lights (next to the headlights) from my observation are not. The air flowing around the corner of the truck causes a suction, when they are removed air is pulled out and the fender well and air intake temps climb to fan output temp.

I saw cooler IAT with the parking light out. Maybe a average of 10 degrees F.
 
Romer,
Did you talk about the scoop on another link? I was loosely thinking of adding a boat bilge air scoop to bring in fresh air vs installing a full blow snorkel. Or, I might just make my own snorkel.

There is a thread from a few weeks ago with scoops in the title. I bought this Subaru Hood Scoop on ebay. I need to check the flow on the hood before I cut in and actually install it. My goal is a reduction in underhood temps by 5-10 degF when driving on a hot summer day.

attachment.php
 
Romer,
your underhood temps will drop 20-30F w/ that at least!

I'm curious on the hood aerodynamics and how the scoop will affect radiator airflow. (I've been negligent on the yarn test as well...)

My initial reaction is that facing forward=intake, facing rearward=exhaust. In that case, it may scoop in a lot of water/dirt onto your engine w/ wheeling...

thoughts?
 
Interesting. Were you planning on facing toward the windshield where the low press zone is?
 
Interesting. Were you planning on facing toward the windshield where the low press zone is?


I was thinking of putting it on about where it sits. But I need to do the test first.
 
How about installing an aux cooling fan like off of an FJ-62, just on the inside right fender
instead of the left as in the 62?? Might have to move things around a bit, and maybe
cut a hole in the fender, or maybe not depending on how you routed the outside air to it.

You could mount the OEM temp sensor for the OEM aux cooling fan on the air intake muffler(box)
I am sure there are electronic experts on this forum who could figure out how
to make it turn on when the air intake temps got too high??

Any thoughts out there??

G
 
I noticed something today- after a 15min drive (city, bit of freeway) and parked, I noticed that the hottest parts of the front were-

1. by far the hottest were the front fenders above the wheelwells - both sides
2. The pass side of the hood- toward the front, basically in front of the air filter.

the rest of the hood was barely warm.

So I think this unscientifically shows the "hot zones". What do you guys think?
 
im also on doubt if heat insulating the airfilter housing is a good idea or not.

because once its hot it wont cool fast.

The idea of ducting mini snorkel kinda thing to suck cold air from where its available is something ive been thinking bout myself also and i dont see why it wont work !!

Also drilling holes in the front side of the car where its not visable to atchieve more ventilation in the engine bay
 
Here's what the fender area looks like, in case it helps you coming up with a design.

102_3919.jpg


102_3920.jpg
 
How about installing an aux cooling fan like off of an FJ-62, just on the inside right fender
instead of the left as in the 62?? Might have to move things around a bit, and maybe
cut a hole in the fender, or maybe not depending on how you routed the outside air to it.

You could mount the OEM temp sensor for the OEM aux cooling fan on the air intake muffler(box)
I am sure there are electronic experts on this forum who could figure out how
to make it turn on when the air intake temps got too high??

Any thoughts out there??

G

I have one of these fans on my 60. It does not move a lot of air, such that I do not think it would be worth the time and effort for this application. I think utilizing the pressure zones and air already moving around the rig would bear more fruit. My 2 cents. Cheers.
 
If IAT temps are a concern go with a snorkel and you will see temps only ~10° higher then ambient temps at cruising speed. Other testing has shown overall cooler IAT temps on snorkel equipped 80's. <Info based on scangauge and Ultra gauge readings.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom