Air Lift 1000 Install

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Going to do my bags in the next couple weeks and have 863s springs but I got a standard 80/100 series Air Lift kit because it was on $60 on marketplace. How long should I make the bumpstops to compensate for the short bags in the tall springs? I didn't realize there were taller bags for the taller springs till I found this thread looking for install tips and tricks.
 
I would get the bags, inflate them just enough that they take shape on the bench top, and measure their height in an unloaded state. Then measure the height inside your rear springs from the base, to where the bottom of the bumpstop hangs. Trim the difference off the lower portion of the bump stop.

Running the bump stop against the top of the bags may cause them to fail faster since you have less surface area and may work the bag material there when your suspension moves.
 
I have 2865, will be switching to the 2860, for the added 20-30mm (sticking to the medium, just a little taller).
1. When switching to the 2860, what is the bag size that is recommended?
2. Does the bag have to be as tall as the clear space inside the spring, from top (w/o bump stop) to bottom perch?
3. Does the bag dia. need to be as wide as the inside of the 2860 spring?
4. Does it need get wedged between the coils when nipple cap is removed (self inflated)?

Appreciate your thoughts.
 
Here are some pictures of my final install. Don't mind the rust, it spent the first 20ish years of it's life in Connecticut.

I followed the brake hard lines on the axle to the flex line, then went over the top of the spare tire area so hopefully my spare won't rub on it, then put the two air fittings in the lower left of the bumper cover.

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Here are some pictures of my final install. Don't mind the rust, it spent the first 20ish years of it's life in Connecticut.

I followed the brake hard lines on the axle to the flex line, then went over the top of the spare tire area so hopefully my spare won't rub on it, then put the two air fittings in the lower left of the bumper cover.

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What size bags are those? What springs are those?
 
What size bags are those? What springs are those?
It's the standard kit for 80/100 series that AirLift lists on their website. The springs are OME 860 heavies. I probably would have gotten different bags but I got this kit for only $60 off marketplace.
 
It's the standard kit for 80/100 series that AirLift lists on their website. The springs are OME 860 heavies. I probably would have gotten different bags but I got this kit for only $60 off marketplace.
Do you think the bags should be taller &/or wider?
 
Do you think the bags should be taller &/or wider?
A little taller probably would be better as there is about 2" of space above the bag at static ride height but the diameter is fine since the OME springs seem to have the same inside diameter as the stock ones.

Worst case I can cut my stock bump stops to take up the free space and not have to buy different bags.
 
A little taller probably would be better as there is about 2" of space above the bag at static ride height but the diameter is fine since the OME springs seem to have the same inside diameter as the stock ones.

Worst case I can cut my stock bump stops to take up the free space and not have to buy different bags.
Currently you don’t have your bump stops on the truck?
 
For lifted trucks, you can give airlift a call, and they’ll recommend a part number (I then order from Amazon) for your internal spring height and ID, measure with the truck sitting on the ground, with no payload.

Then when you add a load, you can air up, get back to your perfect ride high, and it will drive and most importantly steer correctly with a heavy load.
 
Currently you don’t have your bump stops on the truck?
No rear bump stops. If you run full height bump stops it will damage the bags so you have install your bags and see what kind of free space is left and cut the bump stops accordingly.
 
Hey team -

Getting knee deep in this project, but struggling to get my suspension to articulate enough so that I can pull out the spring to drill the hole at the base of the spring footing. Or whatever you call that thing. Can someone provide a step by step on spring articulation? Much appreciated.
 
Hey team -

Getting knee deep in this project, but struggling to get my suspension to articulate enough so that I can pull out the spring to drill the hole at the base of the spring footing. Or whatever you call that thing. Can someone provide a step by step on spring articulation? Much appreciated.
Make sure the bracket holding the brake lines is unbolted from the middle area of the body, your lower shock bolts need to be removed and the shocks removed from the lower mount and sway bar links also need to be unbolted. You also need to disconnect the rear diff breather hose as well.
 
Make sure the bracket holding the brake lines is unbolted from the middle area of the body, your lower shock bolts need to be removed and the shocks removed from the lower mount and sway bar links also need to be unbolted. You also need to disconnect the rear diff breather hose as well.
not doubting, because that's what it seemed like I needed to do while making attempt #1 tonight. That being said - in this chowcares video he doesn't seem to be unbolting anything, but is getting to where I'm trying to get quickly/easily. Is he oversimplifying?
 
not doubting, because that's what it seemed like I needed to do while making attempt #1 tonight. That being said - in this chowcares video he doesn't seem to be unbolting anything, but is getting to where I'm trying to get quickly/easily. Is he oversimplifying?

I didn't watch the video but it only takes a few minutes to undo the 5 bolts or the two shocks, 2 sway bar links and the brake bracket. Also the biggest limiting factor is the shocks, without undoing those it's going to be really hard getting the springs out. Even not undoing the sway bar links once the shocks are undone makes getting the springs out pretty hard.
 
When I did mind I unbolted the shock lowers and sway bar links, as mentioned above. Remove the springs and drill. Not saying it’s absolutely required but it’s not hard either.
 
Hey what would you guys recommend...?

Grommet = slightly smaller hole which seems borderline restrictive during suspension articulation..

Or no Grommet = leaves more space but doesn't have the edge protection... Hole without grommet is 1-3/8" and I drilled the existing (off-center) hole

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Picture below is with Grommet but the bag is not in its "natural" position... The nipple wants to migrate to the edge of the grommet opening and sort of rub against the side

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Please share your recommendations..

Thanks!
wondering how the grommets are working out...? I like the clean final look, but wondering if creating any issues?
 
ok - getting stuck at this point - disconnected lower shocks and sway bar. Rear axle is sinking because I don't think my jackstands go high enough to get the leverage I need. I have a 2nd jack that I'm not using. Any ideas on next steps?


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ok - getting stuck at this point - disconnected lower shocks and sway bar. Rear axle is sinking because I don't think my jackstands go high enough to get the leverage I need. I have a 2nd jack that I'm not using. Any ideas on next steps?


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Looks like you need to get it higher off the ground. Also make sure you disconnect your diff breather hose and the bracket for the brake lines that is above the center of the axle on the body. With everything disconnected the springs are very easy to remove if you have enough droop.
 
Raise the vehicle higher; I used jack stands on stacked 2x6 wood. If you can’t jack it more and aren't changing springs, pry out the bump stop if possible.

A 90-degree drill fits between coils and drill a hole bigger than 1.5” (instructions say 3/4”) so the tube/clamp doesn’t rub. Use a Dremel sanding drum to smooth it out or a hand file. Deflate the bag and slide it through the coils.
 

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