Air Conditioning after a vortec swap (1 Viewer)

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I was going to post this into my existing vortec swap, but figured this is probably something worthy of it's own thread.

I am running a 2006 vortec 5.3l drive-by-wire motor. Drive by wire means there is no mechanical connection with the throttle and pedal. It's all done electronically. While super cool in design, swapping this style of engine into a vehicle that did not have DBW can present some challenges.

It is made more difficult because the 2003 and later vortec motors, when they went to DBW, also started using something called a serial data connection that marries the internal cab controls (ie radio, a/c, cruise control, ect) to the PCM through another computer called a body control module (or BCM).

The cruise control isn't a big deal to me right now, but a/c is. I do have a working a/c after getting custom hoses made up and wiring the vortec compressor up to the stock toyota a/c system. Essentially the toyota a/c amplifier controls the vortec compressor just like it would if the stock 1FZ were still there.

There's one big problem though - there is no idle compensation when the a/c is requested. Basically the compressor kicks in and the motor has to self compensate from the load added by the compressor. What you get is a really low idle speed and poor a/c performance at idle, and weird shifting when slowing to a stop if the compressor should turn on or off as the transmission downshifts.

Several people I contacted said there's no fix. The serial connection won't accept just a straight 12v signal to tell the pcm the a/c is requested.

However, there is a fix. Someone on the LS1tech forum posted a nugget of information on how he used the a/c control head from a 2003 or later truck and uses it to send the serial data request to the pcm to activate the a/c.

I am waiting a used control head to show up - I bought one from ebay.

The plan is to use a control head from a later model silverado to get the serial input needed. This will be done by running a constant 12v wire for keep alive, connecting the toyota a/c amp output that activates the compressor to the keyed input on the silverado head, and also adding a signal to the a/c low pressure input to tell the silverado head that the system is charged with freon. Finally, the last connection will be to the serial data wire - it's the same wire that connects to a scanner.

Serial data works by sending binary codes through this signal wire. Any component (pcm, BCM, a/c control, ect) in this circuit has it's unique code and will respond to each other when called by it's own binary code.

Sounds complex - no?

The key part to this is the integration of the silverado a/c head unit - it's going to be perma-mounted under the dash. It will remember it's last known setting as long as it has a constant 12v power to it. So, if you push the a/c request button on it, it will keep the a/c requested on even after the engine is shut down. The keyed portion will be how the toyota a/c amp will activate the serial request. The pcm will see that the silverado a/c head is powered on and that the a/c switch is on, and will then automatically idle the motor up a little and then kick on the compressor - all in sweet harmony.

More to follow once I get the a/c head I bought.:D
 
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I suddenly feel like less of a man...Good info!

-Nick-
 
ready for more?

Here's the schematic for the a/c head unit:

VortecAC_1.gif


I will be connecting 4 wires from this head unit, installing a relay to control the compressor, and also installing a way to trick the PCM into seeing freon pressure so that it will activate the compressor when called.

I just got the head unit so I will post more pictures as progress is made.
 
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Here's the silverado head unit. Nothing fancy.

IMG_1162-1.jpg


I bought this one because the ebay seller was including the connectors. Without these this project would be a lot more challenging:

IMG_1160.jpg


I removed the connector that carries the wires I need. I will trim this down so that only 4 wires remain. The rest in this plug I do not need, nor do I need the other connector that runs to the fan motor.

IMG_1163-1.jpg
 
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I know this is kind of a poor solution, but why not just turn up the idle speed by 50 or 100 rpm via the vortec ecu. It won't affect your fuel consumption at idle by much, and should solve the Air con problem.
 
Good question - this can be a solution, however I am sort of a perfectionist and want this to work like stock. I don't want the raised idle speed when the a/c isn't called for. Plus the a/c request process is managed by the PCM so the transition to on/off is much smoother.
 
Sounds like a nice solution Rockrod. I wish I had seen this thread a week sooner. I just replaced my compressor last week as I couldn't get my old one to blow anything colder than 74 degrees. Working smoothly now, so no complaints... Clap! By the way, I did up my idle to around 950 at idle and that fix didn't work for me.
 
My a/c has been working great since I had it charged by a professional. I am even using the compressor that came with my donor 5.3l with no issues and it cools down to 39F at 95F ambient temp.

What's been bothering me is the lack of idle step up when the a/c kicks on. The motor would struggle to maintain a solid idle when the compressor kicks on, and then the idle would shoot up when the compressor kicked off. The vortec PCM has no idea the a/c is on with the current arrangement. Sure it works, but I want it to work better.

The plan is to have the vortec PCM control the compressor. It will automatically step up the idle when it activates the compressor so the on/off cycle of the compressor will not be so noticeable because the timing of the events negates any change in rpm as the compressor cycles.

It bugs the crap out of me so I aim to fix it. Most will probably think that this is overkill, but when I set out to do this swap, I wanted it to be imperceptible to the driver (other than the increased power).
 
Howdy,

Did you ever get this to work? I have decided to try to get it to work on my rig if it is possible.
 
My a/c has been working great since I had it charged by a professional. I am even using the compressor that came with my donor 5.3l with no issues and it cools down to 39F at 95F ambient temp.

What's been bothering me is the lack of idle step up when the a/c kicks on. The motor would struggle to maintain a solid idle when the compressor kicks on, and then the idle would shoot up when the compressor kicked off. The vortec PCM has no idea the a/c is on with the current arrangement. Sure it works, but I want it to work better.

The plan is to have the vortec PCM control the compressor. It will automatically step up the idle when it activates the compressor so the on/off cycle of the compressor will not be so noticeable because the timing of the events negates any change in rpm as the compressor cycles.

It bugs the crap out of me so I aim to fix it. Most will probably think that this is overkill, but when I set out to do this swap, I wanted it to be imperceptible to the driver (other than the increased power).

sorry to bring something back from the dead but did you get this to work?
 
Pretty sure he sold the truck. Either way HP Tuners now has an option to do an ac idle up request in an unused pin on the ECU. Might be worth checking their site or searching on their forum to see if it’ll work for you. I never got to it personally but it sounded like the solution for serial bus AC setups
 
Pretty sure he sold the truck. Either way HP Tuners now has an option to do an ac idle up request in an unused pin on the ECU. Might be worth checking their site or searching on their forum to see if it’ll work for you. I never got to it personally but it sounded like the solution for serial bus AC setups

When my truck is back from the body shop I’ll send some wiring pics - I got mine to work and it uses the factory button

The bit about HP tuners is interesting too - that would make life sooooo much easier
 
When my truck is back from the body shop I’ll send some wiring pics - I got mine to work and it uses the factory button

The bit about HP tuners is interesting too - that would make life sooooo much easier
Please do. I’m interested. It is kind of annoying.

Tried the HP tuners way on a different LS swapped vehicle before and couldn’t figure out. Never tired on the Cruiser.
 
When my truck is back from the body shop I’ll send some wiring pics - I got mine to work and it uses the factory button

The bit about HP tuners is interesting too - that would make life sooooo much easier
Ever get the rig back from the body shop??
 
Just for anyone viewing this thread in future.... google using an arduino controller for canbus. Basically you can use a controller to “listen” for the signals being sent over the canbus lines and work out what code is being used for A/C on/off. You can then “replay/generate” the signal from the arduino controller when it detects a 12v/ground input.
The only catch is you need to get access to a running vehicle with the donor engine/ecu. Although as you can read the data from the OBDII port it’s not damaging anything. So either find a friend or someone on a forum, or go to a used car lot and offer the sales guy $50 to pull the data from one of the vehicles for sale.
 

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