AHC Pump Removal

Joined
Jul 12, 2010
Messages
1,009
Location
Raleigh, NC
 
So,

I bought some Trail Tailor sliders. For the longest time, I had planned to completely remove the AHC system. So, I ordered the non-AHC version. Slowly, I have been removing the pieces and hoses. I reached the point at which I decided to just leave the parts on Globes, manifold, etc.), due to the fact that it is a nightmare to remove. Now, my sliders don't fit because the AHC pump is still on the driver's side frame rail. As I see it, I have 2 options.

Option 1: Remove the damn AHC pump ... somehow ... someway.
Option 2: Remove the 3rd arm from the driver's side slider ... :(

I would like to start with option 1, as these sliders are too nice to cut up. Can someone provide advice to remove the pump? I cannot get to the bolts on top of the frame rail, so would welcome ideas to make that happen. I am completely open to cutting, but have been struggling to figure that out. How would the dealership remove it?

Simply put ... I would love ideas to remove that damn pump. Any ideas are welcome.

Thanks,

JB
 

saucebox

Slobivius Americanus
Joined
Jan 24, 2009
Messages
1,925
Location
SLC, UT
 
 
It's a real PITA. I got everything removed except for the rear accumulator on the driver's side.

It's all patience and a ratcheting 10mm (or 12?) wrench. Somewhere between a few and several beers may or may not have been part of the process, and removing it took me all day on an almost completely rust free truck.

I'd do almost anything to avoid cutting up the sliders. Something to consider (although itself a ton of work)—what about following instructions for a body lift and just lifting the body some (like half an inch or an inch) to remove, then tightening it all back up? I know a half inch body lift doesn't require any extra drop brackets and shouldn't stress any wiring, maybe that'd be enough?
 
Joined
Jul 12, 2010
Messages
1,009
Location
Raleigh, NC
 
option 3, sell them and re-order. Let me take a look at mine to see what ideas I can strike up.....
Option 2 would happen before option 3. LOL Only 1 leg different from what I can tell. No to mention, I would only sell locally. Shipping would be a B****
 
Joined
Jul 12, 2010
Messages
1,009
Location
Raleigh, NC
 
It's a real PITA. I got everything removed except for the rear accumulator on the driver's side.

It's all patience and a ratcheting 10mm (or 12?) wrench. Somewhere between a few and several beers may or may not have been part of the process, and removing it took me all day on an almost completely rust free truck.

I'd do almost anything to avoid cutting up the sliders. Something to consider (although itself a ton of work)—what about following instructions for a body lift and just lifting the body some (like half an inch or an inch) to remove, then tightening it all back up? I know a half inch body lift doesn't require any extra drop brackets and shouldn't stress any wiring, maybe that'd be enough?

This is not the worst idea. Unfortunately, mine has enough surface rust that I can't get my 12MM wrenches to grab. I can't see them, but feel like they are either stripping the nuts. I've tried a tiny ratchet I have. I've tried stubby wrenches. I've tried ratcheting wrenches.
 
Joined
Oct 29, 2015
Messages
900
Location
Long Beach, CA
How about unbolting the lower bracket and using a saw saw to cut the upper bracket? You should be able to get a blade up in there. If you don’t have those tools maybe an exhaust shop would do it for you?
 
Joined
Jul 12, 2010
Messages
1,009
Location
Raleigh, NC
 
How about unbolting the lower bracket and using a saw saw to cut the upper bracket? You should be able to get a blade up in there. If you don’t have those tools maybe an exhaust shop would do it for you?
I do have a sawzall but struggling to get a blade that far up there. What if I cut the cylinder part of the pump in half and then bent those pieces off in 2 halves. Make sense?
 
Joined
Jul 12, 2010
Messages
1,009
Location
Raleigh, NC
 
How about unbolting the lower bracket and using a saw saw to cut the upper bracket? You should be able to get a blade up in there. If you don’t have those tools maybe an exhaust shop would do it for you?
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Joined
Jul 12, 2010
Messages
1,009
Location
Raleigh, NC
 
How about unbolting the lower bracket and using a saw saw to cut the upper bracket? You should be able to get a blade up in there. If you don’t have those tools maybe an exhaust shop would do it for you?
I just checked and I have 9 inch blades. Getting 12 inch blades might be the solution.
 

saucebox

Slobivius Americanus
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Jan 24, 2009
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1,925
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SLC, UT
 
 
The high pressure gas warning would give me pause, but I bet you can just saw each side bracket off and pull the cylinder (whole).
 
Joined
Feb 12, 2007
Messages
59
Location
NW PA
 
Following along here as I'm in the same boat. Ordered non-AHC sliders and need to remove AHC components. I've been slowly plugging away at it, but the bolts on top of the frame rails are a PITA. I might give it another go this weekend if I have time.
 
Joined
Jul 12, 2010
Messages
1,009
Location
Raleigh, NC
 
The high pressure gas warning would give me pause, but I bet you can just saw each side bracket off and pull the cylinder (whole).
I am going to get a longer blade for the sawzall tonight and see if I can hit the brackets.

What kind of gas is in there? Could it be depressurized? I thought I saw a "bleeder" valve on the side somewhere.
 
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Jul 12, 2010
Messages
1,009
Location
Raleigh, NC
 
Are you able to actually get the 12mm stubby on the top bolt?
I was not. I was able to get it up there, but I cannot get the stubby on the bolt head. I think the bolt head is rusted a bit and I am having trouble getting it to grip on there.
 
Joined
Oct 17, 2004
Messages
241
Location
Flowood, MS
 
 
 
I was not. I was able to get it up there, but I cannot get the stubby on the bolt head. I think the bolt head is rusted a bit and I am having trouble getting it to grip on there.
Try wiggling a can of pb blaster up there, shoot it, and let it soak - it will get rid of that junk on the bolt head. Once you can get the 12mm stubby on there, use another wrench on the end to get some leverage. The bolts are on tight.
 
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