aftermarket radiator
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Is it possible to replace the tank?
alkaline747trio said:
JB Weld -- A friend and I were in Eastern OR one November, and the top hose connection on his Suburban came OFF of the top tank. Long story short, we 'wleded' it with JB Weld. Years later it was still doing fine when he sold the truck. Amazing chit!
M
IdahoDoug said:
I did the coolant change from green to red so just put a cheap red brand in for now. In a couple of weeks I plan to get some Toyota red or another good quality red and change again after this lot gets rid of any stray green left in the system. The stuff I used was Nulon brand coolant, do you guys get that over there?
Data Point:
The JB "kwik" Weld, that bonds in 4min that I used finally gave up and the top tank leak returned. This was after driving from York, PA to Dayton, OH. Then towing a 6'x12' loaded uhaul trailer from Dayton to Redmond, WA. So.. about 3000 miles and multiple heat cycles loosened/softened up the JB weld to the point that I took a screwdriver and scraped the lip of epoxy off.
Since, no shops are open today on Easter, I JBwelded it again, until I can get it soldered/brazed since it is an aftermarket all metal radiator.
The JB "kwik" Weld, that bonds in 4min that I used finally gave up and the top tank leak returned. This was after driving from York, PA to Dayton, OH. Then towing a 6'x12' loaded uhaul trailer from Dayton to Redmond, WA. So.. about 3000 miles and multiple heat cycles loosened/softened up the JB weld to the point that I took a screwdriver and scraped the lip of epoxy off.
Since, no shops are open today on Easter, I JBwelded it again, until I can get it soldered/brazed since it is an aftermarket all metal radiator.
I have an aftermarket all metal with 7K on it that has a small leak around the bottom tank. I think the aftermarket ones would be ok on a street rig because mine never leaked until I started thrashing it on the rocks.
Are the 91-92 radiators the same as the 93-94?
Are the 91-92 radiators the same as the 93-94?
gbell210 said:
Note that kwik weld has a much lower temperature rating than regular JB weld. It's not the same stuff. I thought about using it for a recent project, but iirc it's rated at 300 degrees vs. 600 degrees for regular JB weld.
Put some JB weld on mine, and it lasted all of 3 hours riding in the Uwharries. The leak is slow enough that I'm not worried about getting dry, but I sure would like ot get it fixed. A new top plastic tank is $169 bucks! I reckon I'll cake on more JB weld this time until I can get the money for the new top tank.
TiredIronGRB said:
No.
alkaline747trio said:
You would be better served to buy a new radiator, even an aftermarket one.
Is an aftermarket radiator gonna be worth while? I'm scared to put anything major in my Cruiser unless Mr. T put it in there to begin with.
At 196K miles, I just replaced the original hoses, including the PHH, and the original radiator (which had a tad of red around the top so I figured it was leaking a bit) with OEM baby! If everything made it that long I'm not gonna fight it. OEM rules!! Rig's good for another couple hundred K!!
Edited to add that part number for 3-row brass is 16400-66040.
Edited to add that part number for 3-row brass is 16400-66040.
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gbell210 said:
There is a great shop I've taken several (count 2) radiators to in redmond, $50 to boil, braze, and paint.
AAA Radiator
9165 Willows Road
Redmond, WA 98052
425-885-4165
425-823-2717
tech_dog said:
I did notice the temps for JB weld kwik (300) vs. regular (500) per there website. I needed to fix it quick, so I took a gamble, got what I paid for and what time permitted. And I used the Kwik again, just because I had it with me and am going to get it fixed properly thnanks to Aharon.
So others can take note, kwik works... if you are in a bind and can't wait the suggests 15-24 hours for the regular JB. Whereas kwik cures in 4-6 hours.
