aftermarket radiator (1 Viewer)

[cruiserman]

Any more input from folks running aftermarket rads? I can ignore my rad leak no longer. I need to decide if I'm going to fight them on the warranty or simply have it soldered up locally. I'll probably stick a used OEM rad in there in the mean time.

 

[CJF]

Any more input from folks running aftermarket rads? I can ignore my rad leak no longer. I need to decide if I'm going to fight them on the warranty or simply have it soldered up locally.

Personally, I wouldn't do either. Seriously; BTDT. You'll just keep having issues every 2-3 years. Sort of like Autozone "lifetime warenty" parts that wear out once a month. I realize there's the psychological issue of "but I paid for it, I want to keep using it", but it just ain't worth it.

Say it like a mantra: "Oem"... ..."Oem"... ..."Oem"...

Curtis

 

[mickey_rubicon]

I had to re braze mine at the filler

My aftermarket radiator for my 93 80 series came from 1 800 radiator about 3 years ago, during a flush and fill last week the filler where you put the cap, it cracked because I was stuffing the flush hose into it, I re-brazed it with my torch and re flowed and re annealed it, now it is cool no problem, I dont think its as good as a new totoya radiator, but I am cheap and broke and it cost half of the toyota price. If I had a unlimited budget I would go with a flex alite setup.

 

[CruiserLegolas]

No aftermarket here. It's been 8-months since my 96 overheated...replaced the 96 oem rad with the 93/94 oem rad...it's been working great since then.

 

[alvarorb]

Cruiserdan set me up with a radiator last year. I did not have problems with the old radiator, but a rig with 150K miles deserves a new radiator. To keeps things cool and clean.

The installation was pretty straight forward. No mods needed. I also took the opportunity to change the fan clutch, radiator hoses and thermostat.

Regards

Alvaro

 

[cruiserman]

I pulled the rad ast night. The bottom ATF cooler nipple was flexing badly while I was pulled the hose off. I don't know if I can get my money back for this turd, but I doubt it. I guess I'll send it back and get another for a spare, and run the used OEM until it explodes.

 

[Nordic]

I went aftermarket with mine, all brass, and around $200. made a 5k+ trip to Alaska, where I am currently. total of 8 k later, its doing just fine............






'91-FJ 80 stock

 

[CJF]

total of 8 k later, its doing just fine

I don't think anyone's questioning how well they work when new, just how long they last.

Curtis

 

[Nordic]

I don't think anyone's questioning how well they work when new, just how long they last.

Curtis

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nordic
total of 8 k later, its doing just fine

I don't think anyone's questioning how well they work when new, just how long they last.

They last at least 8k

 

[CJF]

They last at least 8k

I'm guessing it's also no more than a year old?

That rad. is still a noob in my book.

 

[Mike S]

Aluminum will corrode, just won't "rust". Looking at the radiator in my '96, with plastic top and bottom tanks, I think the earlier three row brass Toyota is the way to go. No worries with it yet, but I had problem with the plastic tanks in two of my Fords, and had to replace them at about 100K miles.

Mike

 

[MTNRAT]

I pulled the rad ast night. The bottom ATF cooler nipple was flexing badly while I was pulled the hose off. I don't know if I can get my money back for this turd, but I doubt it. I guess I'll send it back and get another for a spare, and run the used OEM until it explodes.

Till what explodes , the rad or your engine.
Cheers,
Sean

 

[MoGas]

I have a Koyo brand aftermarket radiator. It looks exactly like the factory radiator and has been flawless in operation (knock wood).

When I pulled my factory one and sat them side by side, the only difference was the "T" logo cast on the top tank of the Toyota one The Koyo had a circle there but no logo. I believe that Koyo is the manufacturer of Toyota's radiators, but I could be wrong. (I was once before)


Dave

 

[mickey_rubicon]

I had to braze the opening back on where you put the radiator cap. It cracked when I was putting the cap on 4 years into it. It is holding fine now, but when i get some xtra cash I am going back to the toyota radiator

 

[alaskacruiser]

FWIW, local club member (zjz4476) installed the brass one on his 96. His engine temps now run 5-7 deg lower than my 95 with the factory aluminum radiator.

This is not really a fair comparison unless you also got a *new* OEM aluminum radiator around the same time he got his new brass one. Chances are a newer radiator has better coolant flow, less crap stuck in the fins, etc. vs. an older one. FWIW, I got a new OEM aluminum radiator about 2 years ago, and I got ice cold A/C with no cut-off in 115F temps on my last trip to Henderson, NV. Aux. temp gauge read max of 208F up hills and in stop and go, IIRC. I think both rads are fine as long as they are well maintained.

 

[gbell210]

I just had the top of my radiator start leaking before I started my move from Dayton to Redmond. From reading on here.. I gather I have an aftermarket one since it is all metal.. Is this correct? Where a OEM one has plastic top and bottoms?

To fix mine, I just stripped the paint with a wire brush and JBwelded it for now. I believe I caught the leak just as it started because I'd see a little pink splatter here and there of the toyota red. It didn't leak constantly either.

 

[Mickldo]

I've got a standard 90 model aluminium radiator and have had no problems so far (318000km). Was doing a coolant flush on the weekend and noticed that the red coolant had written on the side not to be used on copper/brass radiators. Do you guys with the 93/94 rads still use red coolant?

 

[alkaline747trio]

Since we're on the topic of radiators, I figured I'd not make a new thread.

In the '92, there is a hairline crack to the drivers side of the Rad. cap about 3 inches long along the seam on the plastic top. I already tried some epoxy, but it wasn't made for the high temps and just "melted" once I was up to operating temps. Would JB Weld work better?

 

[cruiserman]

You should get a new tank (if possible) or replace the rad. I wouldn't try to repair a cracked plastic tank.

 

[cruiserman]

FYI the used OEM rad is working and not leaking (so far). I'll get the aftermarket one repaired some day.