Aftermarket fiberglass rooftop options (1 Viewer)

[southern son]

I have to finish wiring the Vintage Air system I put in so I can run it. My plan is to do that in the morning and deal with squaring things up after lunch tomorrow. I’m thinking my fence post will become a pine tree since we don’t have any usable fence posts for such use haha.

 

[Green Bean]

Would some carefully placed heavy duty winch straps accomplish the tweaking that you need?

 

[Herb]

Just a thought, but what about mounting the sides to the gozzard top, off the vehicle? Then lift the entire top+sides onto the body for mounting? It seems to me that there is enough wiggle and bend going on with these sides that they are never installed the same way or at the same exact angles each and every time I reinstall the hard top.

 

[southern son]

Either of those options I think would be good. At the moment, with everything together, I think the fence post is the path of least resistance in terms of work. If that doesn’t work then I may pull the top apart and fit it like you said.

We shall see Saturday because it’s shaping up to be a long day.

 

[Curtice]

Long days working on the 40 are good days!

 

[southern son]

@Curtice I agree with you there as long as you’re making forward progress. As it usually goes my wiring efforts took much longer than I’d planned but I did get that all done and routed. I’m a bit OCD about neat wiring and under hood visual as much as possible. I still have a long ways to go but much better than the spaghetti junction that was going on under there.

I’ll be contacting Mike at Gozzard again this week because my tree ramming was unsuccessful other than bending the bumper/brackets, but you can’t say I didn’t give it the old college try. Didn’t move at all. I took the measurements all around as he told me as well as a few other places: from side to side was 1/8” off consistently. My problem is the top where it mounts in the forward most bolt hole is at least 3/4” off if not more. Moving the frame/body back in this way should cause the top to pivot to the left, if not fixIng the problem then it should make it much better. This should also help with the gap at the windshield frame on the RH side too.

As I worked with it and looked at it I completely understood what he was talking about in shifting the frame/body backwards to make it fit. My assumption is that I’m still doing something wrong - thus the need to follow back up with him.

Pictures of the progress…because we all like looking at pictures more than reading words. Nothing some heat and hammers can’t fix.

 

[Tank5]

I have not read through each post hear, so maybe this has been suggested but I would try loosing all the bolts between the top and sides, as well as sides and tub. Then see if you can get enough adjustment to get all the bolt holes to line up before tightening it all down. Good luck.

 

[southern son]

@Tank5 I have everything loose and it still won’t completely work. The only thing I could think of that would be holding it in place are the posts going into the body but those are loose too.

 

[Tank5]

@Tank5 I have everything loose and it still won’t completely work. The only thing I could think of that would be holding it in place are the posts going into the body but those are loose too.

I think the next thing I would try then is the same as someone else suggested. Assemble the top and sides off the truck and try and reinstall the top complete but don't completely tighten all the bolts. Something is going to have to flex. Maybe first you could take some cross measurements of your tops bolt pattern and someone with a stock roof not installed could compare them to confirm your top was built correctly.

 

[southern son]

That was my next plan of attack depending on what Mike says. I simply ran out of time yesterday to do that. Will definitely take measurements as I go.

The roof thing is what makes all of this so confusing for me: I have the original roof that came off it and it fits perfect. I’m replacing the OE one because of the work/time to fix it vs buying one ready to go. The only variable that’s changed in this scenario is the Gozzard roof.

 

[Curtice]

Bump for update from @southern son if there is one. Hope you are getting it figured out.

 

[southern son]

@Curtice I don’t really have a good update at the moment.

I’ve been in contact with Mike by email and still no real solution. Been working with it today and should be able to provide more information in the morning.

 

[EWheeler]

@Curtice I don’t really have a good update at the moment.

I’ve been in contact with Mike by email and still no real solution. Been working with it today and should be able to provide more information in the morning.

Sorry to pester you and thank you for being the guniea pig on this top. Gozzard (Pam) emailed and said my top (which I never ordered) would be ready to ship next week. I had inquired about lead times, but that is it. Kinda baffled how they could make a top for someone without any details whatsoever. Anyhow, I DO need a top and steel drip rail replacement and like this option, but if these tops are not square, I can't justify that cost.

Were you able to get it to fit, and has Mike provided any feedback?

 

[EWheeler]

@Curtice I don’t really have a good update at the moment.

I’ve been in contact with Mike by email and still no real solution. Been working with it today and should be able to provide more information in the morning.

Also, is there an issue with the gap between the front windshield panel and the windshield itself, or is that resolved? The way I understood you earlier is that the windshield would have to pivot forward or the top would have to move backwards/flex the windshield connector in order to close this gap. Windshield could come forward to mate surface to surface, but then you have a gap at the door frames, right? You also have an issue of this windshield panel being too "short" in height? Do you have a good photo from the front showing how this windshield panel doesn't line up with any of the holes at the windshield?

 

[southern son]

@EWheeler In short: I still don’t have the final (installed) solution to the top issues. I’ve continued to work with it and have had several others look at it with me in terms of how to make it fit and we’re all coming to the same conclusion after I tell them the original roof fits without issue.

Mike’s recent feedback was that my windshield frame was most likely not square and causing my issues. It isn’t. Mike sent me several pictures where they took measurements of another top that came from my same mould showing square and placement of holes. If I’m looking at the pictures correctly his is 1/8” off. Mine in the forward most hole on the LH side is 1/4” - 3/8” off if memory serves, while I have it all apart this weekend I will take measurements to confirm. It wasn’t that bad to take off and on before but adding the Dynamat really put the weight on…

I’ve been trying to avoid taking it all back apart if possible but, at this point, it’s either that or start slotting every hole in the sides to make it all line up. I’m not crazy about that idea at all for obvious reasons. I’m no purist but if I can avoid doing that I certainly will. I’ve loosened up the body mounts and have worked it around in hopes that was my issue as Mike had previously advised but I must be doing something wrong because that hasn’t helped either. Outside of trying to run the other side of the frame into a tree I’m not sure what else to do.

I will also note the “crown” that I showed a picture of in the first set of pictures does seem to have an effect on how the top fits/flexes. Please note that it isn’t much, but every little bit helps me at this point. We have a shot bag for working metal at our shop and I laid it on the front most part of the roof/crown and that did flex it out some allowing it to sit down better on the W/S frame. I left it on there all afternoon while I was working with the top.

To answer your other question in regards to the W/S header panel and where it mounts: there is still a good sized gap between it and the W/S frame where it mounts. I mentioned that in my original email to them asking for help but have not received any more thoughts on what to do with it. I haven’t brought it back up either to be completely honest because that wasn’t my biggest concern at the moment. The panel that’s made into the roof is absolutely too short. If they have a longer option than what was sent to me then you definitely want that from what I can tell. Not sure if it matters but I have a 1974, I know there was some question earlier about wipers being mounted at the top or bottom as well.

I don’t have a great photo showing the holes not lining up but I can definitely get you one. I was really hoping no one would ask for that so I wouldn’t have to display my stupidity in drilling holes to the internet any further than what’s already out there… What I was thinking in terms of fixing this is a bit booty fab, but I’m not sure of a better solution. I’d planned on building an aluminum panel as a go between and spacer that will mount to the frame and then to the roof using the original holes that Gozzard put into it. Not going to make the holes I drilled look any better but I may come back at a later date to fill them in with fiberglass or something as to not look so hideous. If anyone has a better suggestion I’m totally open to any good ones.

As a side note I did get the Vintage Air kit installed and it all works! I really needed a win after all of this and that felt good to know I had A/C when it was 45 degrees outside on Monday.

 

[Curtice]

Thanks @southern son . Man, I sooo like the idea of a fully built top with the fixed drip rail built in that I can just bolt on (conceptually). But your experience is making me nervous to give it a try. I already know I have some weirdness to OEM spec since I used an aftermarket tub that was funky in a couple spots.

For example, when I was fitting everything before body work and paint, I had the whole cruiser assembled. I had the hard top sides, hatch and header, doors and door headers all bolted in. When I went to fit the drip rail pieces, there were some spots that didn’t fit up quite right…big gaps (see pic below, but maybe that is normal?).

Maybe with this problem I wouldn’t have the windshield gap issue

Theoretically, if I order the Gozzard top without nutserts, I can make it work. But I’m worried about other issues i don’t anticipate, like what you are experiencing.

 

[southern son]

Some additional thoughts in all of this:

As a guy who used to work with us at the shop used to always say “ignorance will work you to death”

I was never asked about options for the top other than weatherstrip being installed or the riv nuts being put in, and when I ordered there was no information on their website. I had no idea on what to ask in terms of options but I most likely should have asked if there was anything else that could be modified depending on the year model. Hopefully this thread is helpful to others who are looking at these tops as options.

If I had to do some part of this over again for sure, I’d have drilled the holes myself and possibly avoided some of my issues with fitment.

Overall, I still feel that this top is a very quality part and Gozzard has been helpful in responding to emails and questions.

After the last email from Mike saying that my WS frame wasn’t square I have not contacted them again. The primary reason for this is that I haven’t taken the roof off totally to measure my “squareness” compared to what Mike sent me when they measured theirs - therefore I cannot say definitively it’s their top. I’m sincerely hoping that the answer is an adjustment somewhere in the body or hard top sides. I know I’m still missing something here but I’m not sure what it is (aka: ignorance working me to death).

 

[southern son]

@Curtice I think you just have to know going in that it’s going to take more work than it should, especially with an aftermarket tub. Based on the gap you have it could almost take up the one I have at my header panel haha. I still like the roof for the same reasons you’re wanting it with the included drip rail and not having to paint unless I choose to.

Our shop has restored numerous hot rods, trucks, etc. (currently working on a Pinto and still trying to figure that one out) over the years and you can almost always count on aftermarket parts not fitting in some way. Nothing ever fits as good as the OEM and for obvious reasons. I must admit, though, that I wasn’t expecting to have the issues I’m currently having given that my 40 is mostly original with its original top that fits without issue. It’s so much easier to massage metal into place or to where you need it, fiberglass is its own animal and I’m not as comfortable working with it. I know that over time it will begin to break down, like everything does, so I’m really trying to avoid forcing the roof into positions that aren’t natural for it to live and therefore committing it to forever be in a bind. I can cut, add, weld metal without issue but it’s not that easy with a finished fiberglass piece.

The next chapter in roof fitment begins tomorrow and I’m too far past the point of no return now.

 

[southern son]

@EWheeler and @Curtice some final thoughts now that I have the top mostly installed. Most importantly: drill the holes yourself.

The body to frame relationship on my cruiser is not square as Mike said, but as best I can work out squaring it up properly will make the situation worse. I drug out the plumb bobs and tape all over it to be sure. My body is off square about 1/4” from the frame.

I took measurements off the Gozzard top as well as the OEM top and they are, definitively, different. I measured from mounting hole to mounting hole as Mike did when he sent me the pictures/measurements from a top that came from the same mould mine did.

From OEM roof to Gozzard roof they only share two measurements from what I took, which is the rearmost bolt hole at the back of the door connector going across to the other side and the front to back bolt hole length on the LH side. Each one from side to side after that is different getting worse the farther forward you go. Measuring the outside dimensions (outside flange to outside flange, not bolt holes in this case) comparing old to new also revealed that the Gozzard roof is narrower than OEM. The taper on the RH side is different than the LH side which has been my confusion the whole time. Almost all of the holes in the sides line up until you get to the one section on the LH side where the door connector mounts and I don’t have this issue at all with the OEM top. Taper was measured with a straight edge along the outside to the outside flange of the roof.

Not that this helps my situation at all other than restoring my sanity that I’m not a complete idiot. I knew this was a risk going in and I’ll ride this one out because it’s not a perfectly restored show car. I wanted an imperfect really good driver that I’m not scared to use in the woods and that’s what I have. It will forever bother me that I can’t have the top correct but until I can come up with a better solution I will live with this. I’m sharing this so others can benefit and will also be sharing this information with Gozzard.

I still don’t have a good solution for the gap between the header and the windshield frame, my current thought is to machine a piece of aluminum that will mount to the roof with another set of holes that will mount to the WS frame. I’m open to suggestions. This is another one of those things that will most likely never be right and I’ll have to live with it until I can come up with a better solution.

I want to go back and emphasize again that I still believe this is a very quality roof that will last a long time and that they’ve been super helpful all along the way from order, through getting paperwork done, shipping, to responding to my questions while trying to install it. If I need something from them again I will be sure to ask more questions and use this as a learning experience.

I have not been in contact with them since he told me my windshield frame must not be square. That was mainly driven by my lack of time to take all the measurements and that we’ve had some personal family things going on that have taken precedence over my project vehicles. I also wanted to be sure that when I contacted them that I had as much information as I could so that I’m not wasting either of our time going back and forth because I was too lazy to take a measurement off one part of the vehicle or top.

Here are the measurements that I took Saturday while I was working on it, I’ll come back later and type them up in case you can’t read my scribble. The holes numbered 1-4 are starting at the front bolt hole where the door connector mounts working backward done with the same LH : RH like the top diagram below.

 

[FJCamo]

Having just rehabbed my hard top, I might have chosen to go this route instead.

But here’s a thought. Would it be better to get the top in position and drill your own holes and use bolts instead of rivnuts? It took me 2 days with a friend fighting the top to align all the holes. I swear these pieces were once together but they acted like they came from 3 different trucks/years!

Also if you can wait, do the headliner before installing.

Been debating hard about either 1) rehabbing the existing top on my 71, 2) tracking down a better condition used piece, or 3) buying a fresh one.

With all the hassle of removal and (re)attachment (not to mention inevitable repair work), seems like option 2 is a non-starter. Either need to fix the existing one in place (drip tray seems in decent shape, so no need to remove), or suck it up and buy a new one entirely.

This little stream of consciousness probably ain't helping anybody else, but it did serve nicely to lay out my own best options. Ha!

Curious what level of rehab you had to tackle? Cracks in the top or mainly tray work? Previous owner installed a huge RV-style vent on the top of my own... that sucker's coming off and getting patched up soon.