- Thread starter
- #41
I am told they are "original" - might not mean stock I guess but yeah, they doo look bling - not really my style traditionally but they look good I reckon. Good of you to drop by Jeffo 
Will
Will
Advice on a potential FJ Purchase (what to look for - what do you think?)
- Thread starter stardotstar
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Wow! That is under $8k USD! A rig like that around here would probably go for $20k USD. I can only dream of ever owning something like that.
Man, i've never seen so much work just to buy a rig. I can't wait to see an conclusion to this purchase.
Kevin
Kevin
- Thread starter
- #44
I always do my homework - let alone for 10 grand on a breed of truck I know nothing about.
OK, so let's go for a drive in her.
OK, so let's go for a drive in her.
- Thread starter
- #45
Here are my impressions from the test drive and some more (better quality photos)
I have committed to buy this rig pending safety certificate/roadworthy on Monday.
The seller took me around to a mate of his who has the exact same model running 30" tyres (mine has 29") and with the motor un restricted (the closing the gates thingo - whatever that is - I'm told they can be opened up by a diesel mechanic for about $120 - that remains to be confirmed!) And it had a lot more poke - even with the larger tyres. That one felt more like an older model car to drive through 1st and 2nd, especially on hill starts and approaching steep grades. This is a change that I think I am likely to want to do but will see how the economy is and how I adjust to driving it in the current configuration.
The front seat is too close to the peddles for me - but there is at least 4" of space that could be used by extending the rails that the front seat slides on without worrying about the rear wheel well... So extending that with a small weld and adding a new bolt at the rear position should be doable and this guy being an auto restorer told me he could probably do it in a couple of hours for under $100...
Other than that the cruiser is extremely nice to drive, bouncy and a bit rough due to the short wheel base and springs but I actually like that feel and will get used to it in no time. The diesel motor really hauls through in the higher gears unlike a petrol and the biggest issue seemed to be keeping the speed up and not engine braking when selecting a lower gear on a grade. So yeah, she's slow but once under way 4th and 5th are great driving gears and I think I will settle into it real well.
Everything works - lights, radio, air, aircon, wipers, high beam, driving lights, blinkers, dash indicators, the 4 high and 4 low also proved comfortable and easy to tuen into. The turning circle is great!
Here are some more photos for the record...
Looks like a winner to me. Very exciting
I have committed to buy this rig pending safety certificate/roadworthy on Monday.
The seller took me around to a mate of his who has the exact same model running 30" tyres (mine has 29") and with the motor un restricted (the closing the gates thingo - whatever that is - I'm told they can be opened up by a diesel mechanic for about $120 - that remains to be confirmed!) And it had a lot more poke - even with the larger tyres. That one felt more like an older model car to drive through 1st and 2nd, especially on hill starts and approaching steep grades. This is a change that I think I am likely to want to do but will see how the economy is and how I adjust to driving it in the current configuration.
The front seat is too close to the peddles for me - but there is at least 4" of space that could be used by extending the rails that the front seat slides on without worrying about the rear wheel well... So extending that with a small weld and adding a new bolt at the rear position should be doable and this guy being an auto restorer told me he could probably do it in a couple of hours for under $100...
Other than that the cruiser is extremely nice to drive, bouncy and a bit rough due to the short wheel base and springs but I actually like that feel and will get used to it in no time. The diesel motor really hauls through in the higher gears unlike a petrol and the biggest issue seemed to be keeping the speed up and not engine braking when selecting a lower gear on a grade. So yeah, she's slow but once under way 4th and 5th are great driving gears and I think I will settle into it real well.
Everything works - lights, radio, air, aircon, wipers, high beam, driving lights, blinkers, dash indicators, the 4 high and 4 low also proved comfortable and easy to tuen into. The turning circle is great!
Here are some more photos for the record...
Looks like a winner to me. Very exciting
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- Thread starter
- #46
Some more photos.
Now I'm no expert with chassis and body work but for a rig of this age I reckon she is in great nick.
The second last shot is the rear wheel well looking backward.
Now I'm no expert with chassis and body work but for a rig of this age I reckon she is in great nick.
The second last shot is the rear wheel well looking backward.
- Thread starter
- #47
There's a bit of a leak witness on the right hand side of the front diff/axel - see the third and fourth last photos - what do you think this could be - waste from an oil filter change??
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good pics great rig...
I want a diesel!!
- Thread starter
- #49
Roadworthy tomorrow morning, then providing the new battery and the regassing go to plan we will transact in the afternoon.
Does anybody know where I could get a manual for this truck?
Which 40 series' is it common with and what are the best manuals to go for?
TIA
Will
Does anybody know where I could get a manual for this truck?
Which 40 series' is it common with and what are the best manuals to go for?
TIA
Will
gday Will..
you can download the manuals for this from birfield.com.. otherwise you can get a hardcopy of the "Max Ellery" manual from Drysdales auto bookstore (they are located at bowen hills right next to the RNA showgrounds.
Unit 8/7 Cnr O'Connell Tce & Hamilton Place
Bowen Hills
Phone (07) 3852 5075
you can download the manuals for this from birfield.com.. otherwise you can get a hardcopy of the "Max Ellery" manual from Drysdales auto bookstore (they are located at bowen hills right next to the RNA showgrounds.
Unit 8/7 Cnr O'Connell Tce & Hamilton Place
Bowen Hills
Phone (07) 3852 5075
- Thread starter
- #51
I must admit to being a bit wary of the motor state since talking to some diesel injection specialists.
I can only say that the pump has been done recently (not sure if rebuilt or replaced) and that the net effect of that service was that the fuel was turned down on the pump resulting in less power but better economy - this is the "closed the gates down" comment.
My research tells me that a mechanical fuel pump is calibrated to Toyota spec sheets on the bench and then fitted to the vehicle. The tuning should be suitable for the vehicle and the specs - any further fiddling can cause problems - there is a fuel metering screw on the pump and closing it will result in that effect - opening it can cause bad economy unnecessary wear and black smoke.
Perhaps the vehicle was blowing a bit of black smoke and it was turned down to prevent that?
When were the injectors replaced if ever (should be every 100k), what is the compression like?
All this needs to be determined if it is worth paying the premium for.
But I am told that worst case would be having 1100-1200$AUD service of injectors and pump to rectify the problem - as long as the motor isn't shagged completely - rebuild is around $4000!!
This is all making me be very cautious at the moment. I certainly can't afford it to turn into a $17,000 rig right from the start
I can only say that the pump has been done recently (not sure if rebuilt or replaced) and that the net effect of that service was that the fuel was turned down on the pump resulting in less power but better economy - this is the "closed the gates down" comment.
My research tells me that a mechanical fuel pump is calibrated to Toyota spec sheets on the bench and then fitted to the vehicle. The tuning should be suitable for the vehicle and the specs - any further fiddling can cause problems - there is a fuel metering screw on the pump and closing it will result in that effect - opening it can cause bad economy unnecessary wear and black smoke.
Perhaps the vehicle was blowing a bit of black smoke and it was turned down to prevent that?
When were the injectors replaced if ever (should be every 100k), what is the compression like?
All this needs to be determined if it is worth paying the premium for.
But I am told that worst case would be having 1100-1200$AUD service of injectors and pump to rectify the problem - as long as the motor isn't shagged completely - rebuild is around $4000!!
This is all making me be very cautious at the moment. I certainly can't afford it to turn into a $17,000 rig right from the start
LX
I PM'd you, send me your email address and I will send you pics of mine. I have an 83 BJ42 LX model also. I had the exact front Bull bar in which I just sold it to a fella on the forum just recently.
Roberto
I PM'd you, send me your email address and I will send you pics of mine. I have an 83 BJ42 LX model also. I had the exact front Bull bar in which I just sold it to a fella on the forum just recently.
Roberto
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buy it!
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I used to adjust the fuel mixture in my 75 series 2H Diesel all the time. The Fuel metering screw is easy to use, and id say thats all they have touched. The slightest turn on the screw will make heaps of difference to performance, however to much, and you'll blow black smoke, and eventually do damage. Any Toyota dealer with decent mechanics will know how to do it. The pumps were used on Bj's and Hj's (a larger pump, but the same design) from early 1981 to 1989.
In saying all this id reckon, if the car seems to go ok, leave it all alone. With diesel at $1.23/L economy aint such a bad thing!
People dont understand diesels, and specialists know this.
Id get the injectors done, (shop around for prices they WILL vary) id be EXTREMELY suprised if compression was low with that milage in a small diesel. With regular oil changes, they simply go forever!
Buy it you wont be disappointed..
In saying all this id reckon, if the car seems to go ok, leave it all alone. With diesel at $1.23/L economy aint such a bad thing!
People dont understand diesels, and specialists know this.
Id get the injectors done, (shop around for prices they WILL vary) id be EXTREMELY suprised if compression was low with that milage in a small diesel. With regular oil changes, they simply go forever!
Buy it you wont be disappointed..
- Thread starter
- #55
OK guys, thanks heaps for the encouragement and advice.
I have the 10goriallas on me right now and will be buying tonight or tomorrow
I have the 10goriallas on me right now and will be buying tonight or tomorrow
OK guys, thanks heaps for the encouragement and advice.
I have the 10goriallas on me right now and will be buying tonight or tomorrow
I'd be over there right now. Thats one sweet 40. Congrats.
- Thread starter
- #57
Oh, now the suspense is killing me too 
There have been delays ( :roll: ) the aircon apparently took much more work than just "regassing" and they ended up replacing a fair few bits on it to finally get it working properly after regassing 3 times and spending $450...
I am not familiar with aircon components but the canister in the red circle positon below is new and some hoses had been leaking (but because it hadn;t been used for ages the leaks didn't show) and something that fits in front of the radiator had to be replaced.
The battery being replaced is the one in the pic with the green circle. Once it is removed you can see that it is a custom tray/mount it is on (with wood blocks) and I am told that they were not dual battery from factory. I'm sure someone can confirm this for me - but it also makes me wonder how it has been wired in and setup because it has the battery selector in the cabin near the seat and 4wd shift - one or 'tother or both...
Good news on the motor front: the injectors were done at the same time as the fuel pump so it certainly looks like the power situ is to do with the adjusting screw.
I am going through the factory manuals now.
As a result of the delays the deal won't go down tonight but tomorrow night. The roadworthy is happening tomorrow...
There have been delays ( :roll: ) the aircon apparently took much more work than just "regassing" and they ended up replacing a fair few bits on it to finally get it working properly after regassing 3 times and spending $450...
I am not familiar with aircon components but the canister in the red circle positon below is new and some hoses had been leaking (but because it hadn;t been used for ages the leaks didn't show) and something that fits in front of the radiator had to be replaced.
The battery being replaced is the one in the pic with the green circle. Once it is removed you can see that it is a custom tray/mount it is on (with wood blocks) and I am told that they were not dual battery from factory. I'm sure someone can confirm this for me - but it also makes me wonder how it has been wired in and setup because it has the battery selector in the cabin near the seat and 4wd shift - one or 'tother or both...
Good news on the motor front: the injectors were done at the same time as the fuel pump so it certainly looks like the power situ is to do with the adjusting screw.
I am going through the factory manuals now.
As a result of the delays the deal won't go down tonight but tomorrow night. The roadworthy is happening tomorrow...
Mine is from AUS and is 12v which only came with one battery, from what I read the 24v models like the ones that went to Canada have the 2 battery setups? Someone correct me if I am wrong? I am wanting to put 2 in mine if I can find a battery support.
Rob
Rob
pbgbottle
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dual batteries in canada yes set up how it looks in the pic above
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- #60
It wouldn't be a Canadian (they are left hand drive right?) so I am guessing that the original owner saw the benefit of dual battery and mounted it at the beginning.
So does that mean that the battery selector in the photo is an after market part or have the toyota one?
If it is aftermarket I wonder how the wiring was done differently to how Toyota did it in that model for the Canadian market.
I can see wiring diagrams in the factory manual for the 3B which show dual battery systems but I can't be sure which rig they apply to.
Tipping that today is the day!
So does that mean that the battery selector in the photo is an after market part or have the toyota one?
If it is aftermarket I wonder how the wiring was done differently to how Toyota did it in that model for the Canadian market.
I can see wiring diagrams in the factory manual for the 3B which show dual battery systems but I can't be sure which rig they apply to.
Tipping that today is the day!
