Adjust ignition timing....ok...??? (1 Viewer)

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Per page IG-10 85 Toyota FSM.




3: Adjust ignition timing

a) connect timing light to engine

b) start engine and run at idle

c) using a timing light, slowly turn the distributor until the timing mark on the crank shaft pulley is aligned with the 12° mark. Tighten the distributor bolt.

d) recheck ignition timing


ignition timing: 22R 0° TDC (max 950rpm)
.............................(with vacuum advance cut)

....................22RE 5° BTDC at idle
...............................(short terminal "T")




uh, ok? :confused:

I have mine set at 0° with both vac lines to the dist pulled. It runs weird, too much throttle and it trips and stumbles. Ease back and let the motor come up and it's got gobs of power. :confused: Trying to set the timing on my 20/22R.

WTF is this 12° stuff?

Do I set the timing with the vac lines attached, than pull the advance?...and hope it'll go to 0° TDC???


:confused::confused::confused::confused::confused:


Also, for another EFI truck I have, I need to know WHAT exactly to short the "T" to?

:confused::confused::confused::confused:


:mad:
 
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I'm actually working on two.

The 22R is the one I'm TRYING to do right now...


The RTE will come later.




I need to know how to do the R.

With the vac lines attached it wont reach 12deg. But I backed it up to 5 (lines attached) and it seemed to do better but it was a short stroll. No temp gauge....and it's running VERY hot w/ NO thermostat and has great great flow.
 
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will super advanced timing cause a motor to overheat?
 
forget about 12 degrees. disconnect the hoses and adjust it to 5 degrees.


10-4, one foot out the door to move it a tooth.

It's at 5 now w/o adv. cut, I'm gonna drive it and see if it's not running as hot.


To recap, I am setting the timing a 0deg, with advance cut. So I'm assuming that once I attach the vac, it's advancing WAY too much.


:confused: seems like 12deg w/o advance cut would not go to 0 once
the line is replaced? :confused:
 
I had the timing WAY too advanced.


got it to 12deg (no adv. cut) and went for a spin....OMG I love it!

No hesitation she just goes! I still think it's running hot but I'll have to wait till I get a hole drilled and taped before I can find out :frown:

But she moves! :D


I've got it cranked all the way it will go on one side, I can't get the sweet spot. I got it close before the dist was as far as it could go and was able to get it to 8deg. (w/ cut IIRC) But it would advance off the timing tag.

Gonna have to wait and play with it more tomorrow. :frown:




(different truck)
Anyone know the "short the "T" connector" procedure? Is it just a ground? :eek: I'd hate to short something out...
 
if it has the diag port on the pass side inner fender, short te1 and e1.

if it does not, then on the driver side there is a round green connector with two terminals. its not plugged into anything. short those two.

glad to hear you made some progress.
 
if it has the diag port on the pass side inner fender, short te1 and e1.

if it does not, then on the driver side there is a round green connector with two terminals. its not plugged into anything. short those two.

glad to hear you made some progress.


I got the box.

And that's what I thought but that's the diagnostic terminals...:confused:


freaking Chilton's has that in the timing section but I don't think it's the timing short?

:confused:
 
a chiltons??!! hahahahahahaa!

you need to burn that blasphemous propaganda! :lol:

Te1 and e1 are the right connectors. Hell, do a search on it, check the FAQ, its all there. :D
 
sorry, but this is confusing the ell out of me.


:confused:

Yes or no. The "short" for the 22REs timing is the same terminals as the ones used for pulling the diagnostic codes? :confused::confused:
 
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Yes or no. The "short" for the 22REs timing is the same terminals as the ones used for pulling the diagnostic codes?

Right. Older trucks have a two-pole connector that gets shorted. Newer trucks have the diagnostic box.
 
I'm not sure if the specs changed for later 22Rs or not, but for my 83, it is set at 5 deg with the vacuum disconnected. Reconnecting it should advance the timing by 7 deg, giving you a total of 12 deg at idle (950 rpm max). If you're not seeing the 7 deg extra advance, you may have a bad vacuum diaphram.
 
ok, I'm having to tear down my 20/22r to fix a bad oil leak at the cover, so...

I'll try this again...I'm too burnt out...

20R and 22R:

The crank goes at what degree on the tab?.....12...5....or 0?

The cam does what as a reference?....dowel at 12:00.... dot at the arrows?


The way I have it set now, the dot is alittle past the arrows on the rocker assy with the crank at 0deg. The distributor will not let me get to about 2degrees of timing. One tooth back and as far as the dist will let me go is 12deg or greater. Move it up a tooth and as far back as the dist will let me is 9-10deg and sooner when I'm using a timing lite.


right now(12° BTDC), it has super low end, and not so flattering high medium to high end.
 
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Crank mark at 0* keyway at 12:00. Shiny links on chain are directly opposite each other, so there's no wrong way the chain goes on. Crank sprocket dot will be at 6:00, and cam sprocket dot will be at 11:30. Dist rotor pointing more or less at the little clip bracket that holds the wire connector that comes out of the dist.
 
i remember saying the timing mark lines up with the woodruff key way. you said it didnt. I was like WTF??

so I got this engine torn down today to do a timing chain ( done in four hours runs like a champ :flipoff2: )

and i look at he key way, and its aligned with the timing mark. so you need to re re re re check your mark, there, Chachi.
 

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