AC Issue....Cold for a few minutes then hot

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Jan 27, 2009
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My AC has a weird symtom. It has a full charge of 134A Compressor Clutch engages and it blows nice cold air for about 5 minutes give or take depending on the day. Then it decides it doesn't want to be cold anymore and just blows outside temp air. The compressor is still engaged and spinning but not producing cold air....what could it be. Condenser doesn't have any blockages everything should be good. HELP its getting hot outside.
 
A/c expansion valve.

Just curious - what exactly was wrong with the TXV? BTW the condenser is mounted in front of the radiator and the evaporator is mounted under the dash.
 
It could be over charged. If it builds up to much pressure it will shut down. You can try letting off some refrigerant and/or servicing your fan clutch to improve airflow.
 
Just curious - what exactly was wrong with the TXV? BTW the condenser is mounted in front of the radiator and the evaporator is mounted under the dash.

You're right. I meant evaporator.

Don't know what was wrong with it, but replacing it fixed the same issue the OP has.

:steer:
 
The expansion valve is probably stuck.

My wife's was doing the same thing and a new valve solved the problem.

They will work for a few minutes untill all the refridgerant gets purged from one side to the other. When the vehicle sits the pressures equalize and it will work again for a few minutes. Lather, rinse, repeat.
 
DAMN THATS A 8 Banana Job....may just deal with being warm

It's really not that bad. Mine had the same problem last year. If you're doing the expansion valve, it's also a good time to change the dryer.
 
I just had the same problem with my ac and had the expansion valve replaced and it fixed the problem.
 
IT's not that bad, rather easy to changeout. (Changed out an Evap and Expansion Valve last year.)

I have a similar problem with my VW, The compressor stays running, the cooling fans are running, but the pressures never get anywhere near where they are supposed to be, the lines get cold for the first second of running then nothing. The Hi/Lo switch works, the compressor was changed out, the drier was changed out, the expansion valve was changed out, and the lines were flushed out... Took it to a mechanic who traced it to a "defective" expansion valve, SO, new defective parts can still be found...

So since the compressor is still running I agree with what was said, expansion valve.
 
Just curious - what exactly was wrong with the TXV?

Easy to diagnose, if the low-side gauge goes to zero or into vacuum, it's time to replace.


IT's not that bad, rather easy to changeout. (Changed out an Evap and Expansion Valve last year.)

I have a similar problem with my VW, The compressor stays running, the cooling fans are running, but the pressures never get anywhere near where they are supposed to be, the lines get cold for the first second of running then nothing. The Hi/Lo switch works, the compressor was changed out, the drier was changed out, the expansion valve was changed out, and the lines were flushed out... Took it to a mechanic who traced it to a "defective" expansion valve, SO, new defective parts can still be found...

So since the compressor is still running I agree with what was said, expansion valve.

Aftermarket expansion valves are bad news on VW's, stick with OEM.
 
Easy to diagnose, if the low-side gauge goes to zero or into vacuum, it's time to replace.

What is your line pressure? It could be an expansion valve, but I would look at pressure before doing anything.
 
Can I hit it to fix it?
Why should I do the dryer at the same time?

That might un-stick it temporarily, but replacing it is the real solution. You want to replace the drier for a couple reasons, it's possible that the dessicant bag inside has allowed some debris to get to the expansion valve and plug it, and it's cheap insurance to maintain the system integrity.
 
I would also do a live flush when you replace the reciever/dryer. Mike
 
I had the same issue two weeks ago. It turns out that the previous owner overcharged the system and once it built up too much pressure after 3-4 minutes, the high pressure switch would shut the compressor off. Once the pressure bled down, it would kick back on again and work for a few minutes and then off again.
 

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