Absolute Best Winter Tire For The 80

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OK, since you are the one running the tire on the same machine as I, what dimension of Blizzaks are you running on the 80? I would like to avoid installing a wide and short tire and much prefer a narrow and tall tire, but I will consider your choice.

Also our winters tend to be very cold, and apart from heavy slushy conditions during snow storm (due to heavy use of road salt), I experience hard packed snow with sand abrasive ('crunchy' or smooth and hard like ice would best describe it) on really bumpy, winding roads (15% of my mileage) and dry super cold roads with the occasional hard ice patch (85% of my mileage on our highways). Do you experience similar conditions?

Thanks for your input, as always :)

I run the stock 275/70 16 on stock rims Blizzack DMZ3. The winter conditions you describe is what I see at Steamboat Ice Track for over 15 years now. Nay, I ran the Blizzacks for 30+k year round since Dec of 2005, and I hit the all season at around 25k or so. I find it interesting your comments on the WR's.... I started going to Steamboat with the old Pirrelli winter 190, which then became the P210, which now the WR looks exactly like. I run the P210 on my wifes V8 quattro, and they are great tires, hard to kill and have sidewalls of a performance tire. Too bad Pirelli went back to perfecting rally tires, they should have stayed on that baseline.

I'm still of the feeling that with lockers (even just a CDL), your biggest problem on the 80 is high center, not a traction problem in the snow, running a dedicated snow. So then you start looking at the danger zone, which is to me standing water and black ice.

I tire test as a nature of my work, and my play. I used to do tire comparos for 10years, and post them after Steamboat (audi quattro application with CDL and RDL). A no brainer all around winter tire, for 80 or any other vehicle, is the Blizzack. It's the standard all others pine after, and after 30+k on my DMZ3's, that opinion hasn't changed. Chains and studs and big lugs all have their specific advantages, I just address all around winter tires when I choose mine.

HTH

Scott J
94 FZJ80 Supercharged
Eventmaster Gruppe-q Ice Event 2008
www.gruppe-q.com
 
I run the stock 275/70 16 on stock rims Blizzack DMZ3. The winter conditions you describe is what I see at Steamboat Ice Track for over 15 years now. Nay, I ran the Blizzacks for 30+k year round since Dec of 2005, and I hit the all season at around 25k or so. I find it interesting your comments on the WR's.... I started going to Steamboat with the old Pirrelli winter 190, which then became the P210, which now the WR looks exactly like. I run the P210 on my wifes V8 quattro, and they are great tires, hard to kill and have sidewalls of a performance tire. Too bad Pirelli went back to perfecting rally tires, they should have stayed on that baseline.

I'm still of the feeling that with lockers (even just a CDL), your biggest problem on the 80 is high center, not a traction problem in the snow, running a dedicated snow. So then you start looking at the danger zone, which is to me standing water and black ice.

I tire test as a nature of my work, and my play. I used to do tire comparos for 10years, and post them after Steamboat (audi quattro application with CDL and RDL). A no brainer all around winter tire, for 80 or any other vehicle, is the Blizzack. It's the standard all others pine after, and after 30+k on my DMZ3's, that opinion hasn't changed. Chains and studs and big lugs all have their specific advantages, I just address all around winter tires when I choose mine.

HTH

Scott J
94 FZJ80 Supercharged
Eventmaster Gruppe-q Ice Event 2008
www.gruppe-q.com

Scott, thanks for the link, I liked the video but I honestly could not tell if the Audis were just joking around or if they were really trying to stick to an actual "line" on the track. Your vehicle looked like it was MUCH more in control and just as fast as the others. I'd really like to learn what the hell those guys there were doing cause it looked like chaos. Still, congrats on getting some good lines and some good speeds out there! Has anyone actually flipped or done real damage to their vehicles out there over the years? That one guys that smacked the snow bank is definitely gonna need good alignment after that. :cheers:
 
My Conclusion at This Point (very lengthy!)

I run the stock 275/70 16 on stock rims Blizzack DMZ3. The winter conditions you describe is what I see at Steamboat Ice Track for over 15 years now.

Very useful answer, and generally, I have learned a lot from your posts, those of IdahoDoug, Nay, MTNRAT, turbocruiser, jasonmt and others. This has been an incredibly articulate, in-depth, insightful and useful thread, and for this reason I vote that it should become a sticky!

In any case, what seems to transpire or should I say, distill of late from these posts, is that it is fine to run "wide" tires for general winter use.

The reason why I never liked wide is that the worst driving conditions we have are those in which we 'float' in the snow or should I say, that heavy, wet salty mess we call slush (and is not that unlike mud!).

We have those conditions for several hours after each snow storm and it gets worse on highways as the first thing that is done is to salt them heavy. As a result even good ice tires tend to make the vehicle float on the muck.

On secondary roads with less traffic we tend to get sand and gravel and the stuff is drier. As a result, driving is more pleasant with tires that give in more gradually for a much more controlled ride.

In any of those two conditions, wide winter tires are, in my experience, no better than thin all seasons, even studded. As a matter of fact, when I got my first "winter" tires way back on my first car, they were no better than the summer Michelins. They were only better in deep, packed snow. I always wondered why Michelin was seemingly the only manufacturer that siped its tires at the time. Seems almost like they invented that process (along with Radial construction).

The slushy, heavy snow conditions are the main reasons why I don't trust wide tires. In my over 30 years of driving experience, these have been the conditions where I have had the closest calls and have seen the most accidents.

Now, I agree that black ice or that thin film of slick ice stuff that build up at intersections is really nasty. Fortunately as I live in the countryside, we don't have much of that, but when I get into town, this becomes an issue. I've been hit a few times in the back by people with lesser tires than I (one of the reasons I don't like my JDM spare tire carrier - seen vehicles completely smashed in the back BY THE SPARE). For that reason, I tend to prefer studded tires.

However, no matter what, and I have found that from my experience and that of my friends and relatives, no matter how good tires are (I remember a case where my sister claimed her tires were fantastic), in slick conditions such as those that happen a few times a year, when we have rain that falls on compacted snow, not even studs will allow you to do anything more than simply move on the flat. THAT is chain territory!!! Studded tires are OK and help a bit, but do not add that much more traction to a tire. You need spikes for those conditions!!!

I am willing to consider the Blizzaks, as they seem to grab the best in wet and icy conditions. But I cannot understand why I should fork good money for a tire than is essentially just half of a winter tire. It's a lot to pay for limited usage. Considering our winters last a good 5 months, it becomes expensive real fast.

The Nokians have proven themselves in my case, but indeed, they don't grip that great at least in the LT version. The SUV version is substantially better, but it is not available in a thin tire (235/85R16) like the Blizzak is. But it is durable and studdable and gives great all-around winter performance in 235 width on the 80 (but it is not as grippy on the lighter 60 series).

IdahoDoug swears by the X-Ice. Great, but what are his winter conditions? City or countryside? Granted, as a dedicated winter tire with lots of sipes, they are going to be great in light snow and good on ice and will probably last a long time as well. But this tire is not available in a tall and narrow either, they are not studdable and the tread depth is ridiculously shallow (12/32”).

jasonmt loves his narrow LT Nokians. But his vehicle is also almost 50% heavier than the 80 series Landcruiser. No wonder he dislikes the Blizzaks, which are known to be softer plus the fact he was comparing a wide P type tire to a narrow LT, a completely different tire in both compounds AND construction! I wonder how he would have fared with the Blizzak in the same exact type and size...

Nay loves his Trxus. Not surprising it should work well in winter, as it's been said it has a soft rubber tread. Plus it got lugs and sipes. Almost an ideal tire! But on DD doing 85% of driving on the highway? Hmmm... Not sure it would last long, and fuel consumption is probably going to suffer as well. Worth a consideration, if it was studdable and had more of an ice tread pattern in the center, with its deep tread depth it could be ideal (almost ¾” in our sizes, IIRC), as it's also available in tall and narrow.

SUMOTOY, you really make a convincing pitch for the Blizzak in 265/75R16 (or was it 270/70R16?) and the importance of having a lower profile to prevent tread rollover (and loss of traction). However, discounting the higher pressure on the road that a thin tire provides is questionable IMO, as I have seen the difference the same tire can make on my 60 as compared to my 80, which is easily 10% heavier if not more. In fact, under identical conditions (4 wheel drive and tires inflated at the exact same pressure), I found that the 80 had significantly better grip on the road than the 60 ever had, and I did notice that that the tire felt 'softer' on the 80 as it did on the 60. So to summarize, the tire you like may be a great all around choice, but 265 or 270 is way too wide IMO. I do admit that it will stay flat better than a 235/85, so ideally, I would prefer a 235/70, but that would mean, getting 18 inch or taller rims, and then we get into limited availability (=real expensive) territory. So getting a tall tire will presumably give lesser lateral response (cornering). But as I rarely take corners real fast (the LC with its high center of gravity is not really designed for that anyway), I don't see that as a real issue. So I'm still not convinced the Blizzaks in that size are suitable, nor am I really enthusiastic with the idea of replacing tires every two winters.

I'm still of the feeling that with lockers (even just a CDL), your biggest problem on the 80 is high center, not a traction problem in the snow, running a dedicated snow. So then you start looking at the danger zone, which is to me standing water and black ice.

As I stated previously, I cannot see a tall and narrow tire as being more of a problem rather than an advantage in my driving conditions. I'd rather have good longitudinal control, pizza-cutting through the slush, rather than maintaining control in high speed cornering, although it would be great to have that advantage. But at what cost, and are 32 inch tires available that offer a low profile narrow tread such as 235/75 or lower? That would require at least an 18-inch and preferably a 20-inch rim! And are such tires even available in winter compounds? I don't think so, at least not at tirerack.com, and probably not in any decent assortment of brands and types!

I tire test as a nature of my work, and my play. I used to do tire comparos for 10years, and post them after Steamboat (audi quattro application with CDL and RDL). A no brainer all around winter tire, for 80 or any other vehicle, is the Blizzack. It's the standard all others pine after, and after 30+k on my DMZ3's, that opinion hasn't changed. Chains and studs and big lugs all have their specific advantages, I just address all around winter tires when I choose mine.

I really do appreciate the time and effort you put into posting here. You are obviously a very knowledgeable and articulate tester and user, and believe me, I truly appreciate your input, and you do make a convincing case for the Blizzaks. It does help a lot!

But like others have said, although it may become a never-ending quest (such is the lot of scientists everywhere) that may paralyse those who have to make a choice, it doesn't hurt to investigate and explore all options and I truly appreciate the knowledgeable input of all those who have posted in this thread. I also appreciate the fact that no one has ridiculed this (seemingly futile at times) quest for the 'absolute best winter tire'...

With all the experience and insight posted here we could probably be able to actually design our own 'best winter tire'... :D The problem remains, who would build them for us ;)
 
I think those green diamond tires look interesting.
I tried the Green Diamond retreads in their 285/75R16 mud terrains on BFG carcasses last winter. I was very disappointed with them, and pulled them off after a month and 1600 miles. Very rough ride and poor handling on the highway. I did not really get a good feel of how they do in the snow and ice because their highway manners were so bad I took them off as soon as I could.

The tread casting was very poor quality. There were several "chuncks" missing in the tread from gas pockets during the molding process (per High Tec Retreading). Also there were miss-shaped tread blocks (rubber filled in between a few of the tread blocks) and mold lines across the tread.

I am used to driving on mud tires, I have MTRs on the TLC, I have Super Swamper Truxus MTs and Big O Mud tires on other vehicles. The High Tec Retreads handled bad even for a mud tire.

I think the Green Diamond in the tread may help on ice, but the retread tires did not feel safe to me on the highway (did not handle or brake with good control on dry pavement). I may consider them on a trail truck that does not see much highway time, but not on a daily driver, which pretty much defeats the purpose of getting Green Diamond.
 
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BJ60,

If you want to maintain maximum mobility in horrendous onroad conditions, get a set of dedicated winter tires like the Michelins or the Blizzaks. Everything else is a compromise. I promise (scout's honor sign being held up). You can randomly and in a misdirected way analyze this to death but that is the simple truth. Those tires were made to provide excellent snow/ice traction while preserving as much dry/wet pavement handling as possible. If that's not your goal (which seems to waver back and forth with each post a bit) then so be it. But if you want to safely drive your vehicle in winter road conditions your statistical best decision is a top of the line dedicated winter tire. Period.

DougM
 
BJ60,

If you want to maintain maximum mobility in horrendous onroad conditions, get a set of dedicated winter tires like the Michelins or the Blizzaks. Everything else is a compromise. I promise (scout's honor sign being held up). You can randomly and in a misdirected way analyze this to death but that is the simple truth. Those tires were made to provide excellent snow/ice traction while preserving as much dry/wet pavement handling as possible. If that's not your goal (which seems to waver back and forth with each post a bit) then so be it. But if you want to safely drive your vehicle in winter road conditions your statistical best decision is a top of the line dedicated winter tire. Period.

DougM

Welll summarized Doug.... 83BJ60, I think the difference between a 235 and a 275 on a 5000lb tank, isn't going to give you any noticeable difference in traction vs which brand and application you choose of a 275 winter tire. The tread design of the DMZ3 is directional, and I didn't find any issues with hydroplaning it in the worst of rain or slush. I have airbags only on my FZJ80, and the winter tread lasted over a year of year round driving (23k or so before all season). It's now at 30+k, and I have plenty of all season tread left. I really believe this is due to the dual solid axle giving good travel geometry and the need for stiffer sidewalls for SUV tires. I get about 6k or so out of my turbo quattros running Blizzacks with IDF and IDR awd.

I've enjoyed chains, I enjoyed studs, and big lugs... in specific conditions. But I know in that same drive, I'd rather have Blizzacks back on when those specific conditions aren't met. Everyone should have experience on a set of Blizzacks to understand the baseline not the extreme.

TC, regarding the ice track even I run... There are several prorally drivers and a lot of seasoned drivers that are there to really get the car outside the friction circle in a closed environment. The reason my truck looked so poised, was the limit was so high with the Blizzacks, I had a hard time throwing the truck for a loop (but certainly did - I have a lot of 8mm footage that wasn't digitized). I did find that tire pressure was critical (28psi x 4), and airbags at 6psi was great, 10psi wasn't.

IMO, get a set of dedicated winter tires, whatever you choose. Then take the Bridgestone Winter Driving School (pre-requisite for my event) - and they are sponsored by toyota, and they run the trucks too. My Summary is simple: The best winter tire is the one driven by someone with good training in winter driving techniques.

Cheers

Scott J
94 FZJ80 Supercharged
www.gruppe-q.com
 
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BJ60,

If you want to maintain maximum mobility in horrendous onroad conditions, get a set of dedicated winter tires like the Michelins or the Blizzaks. Everything else is a compromise. I promise (scout's honor sign being held up). You can randomly and in a misdirected way analyze this to death but that is the simple truth. Those tires were made to provide excellent snow/ice traction while preserving as much dry/wet pavement handling as possible. If that's not your goal (which seems to waver back and forth with each post a bit) then so be it. But if you want to safely drive your vehicle in winter road conditions your statistical best decision is a top of the line dedicated winter tire. Period.

DougM
Oh, don't take me wrong, I've been convinced that dedicated winter tires are the best FOR YEARS. I've had winter tires on ever since I had a car and granted, the early locally produced tires were often no better than the OEM Michelins I had as a summer tire... But things have changed a lot!

The main problem I find needs to be addressed is tire construction and tread compound differences between sizes and type of the same tire. Like I said, in my experience a narrow tire, given the same tread and construction, is way better than a wide tire. NO QUESTION ABOUT IT! Frankly, I can't see how these wide tires can even cut it. The tall and narrow use less fuel AND have better grip because of increased on road pressure. That's a given, it doesn't take a math head to figure that out.

Sorry, but in my books, the Latitude X-Ice you like so much is simply too wide and not tall enough to even make it in my final choice. On top of that it's tread is ridiculously shallow!

Now if you were to tell me that a wide, 'for SUVs' tire of the same brand (let's say, a Blizzak DMZ3) is just as gripper as it's taller and narrower 'Commercial, Light Truck' version, I would definitely consider it. Or if I knew that the LT version of that tire is made with the same rubber (not harder or tougher), I would definitely go with the LT and live with the harsher ride. Bottom line is, I want the grippiest tire there is.

So far, I have not seen a side by side comparison between tires of the same brand but different types (P and wide versus LT and Narrow). How can someone make an informed decision based on so little data and so wideley differing tire sizes, types, vehicle and weather configurations? You saw it for yourself, there is no clear winner, it's impossible!

In my case my final decision will be determined by the difference between LT tall and narrow tires versus wide and shallower P tires.

Like I said, I have not found the tire that would be ideal in my opinion, that is, in 235/75 P or SUV configuration but in a tall tire, which probbaly would require a 18 or 20 inch rim.
 
Welll summarized Doug.... 83BJ60, I think the difference between a 235 and a 275 on a 5000lb tank, isn't going to give you any noticeable difference in traction vs which brand and application you choose of a 275 winter tire.

Then could you explain why the big difference in traction in favor of the heavier HDJ81 when fitted with the same tires I had on the lighter BJ60, with more wear on the tire when it was fitted on the HDJ81?

The tread design of the DMZ3 is directional, and I didn't find any issues with hydroplaning it in the worst of rain or slush. I have airbags only on my FZJ80, and the winter tread lasted over a year of year round driving (23k or so before all season). It's now at 30+k, and I have plenty of all season tread left. I really believe this is due to the dual solid axle giving good travel geometry and the need for stiffer sidewalls for SUV tires. I get about 6k or so out of my turbo quattros running Blizzacks with IDF and IDF awd.

Gaww! I would have to replace tires at least twice a season with that kind of wear!!!

I've enjoyed chains, I enjoyed studs, and big lugs... in specific conditions. But I know in that same drive, I'd rather have Blizzacks back on when those specific conditions aren't met. Everyone should have experience on a set of Blizzacks to understand the baseline not the extreme.

I admit I have not had this experience, but it seems around where I live ereryone raves about them when they get them installed but grumble that they have to replace them so often (my local, experienced garage now refuses to sell them anymore because they wear so fast).

TC, regarding the ice track even I run... There are several prorally drivers and a lot of seasoned drivers that are there to really get the car outside the friction circle in a closed environment. The reason my truck looked so poised, was the limit was so high with the Blizzacks, I had a hard time throwing the truck for a loop (but certainly did - I have a lot of 8mm footage that wasn't digitized). I did find that tire pressure was critical (28psi x 4), and airbags at 6psi was great, 10psi wasn't.

IMO, get a set of dedicated winter tires, whatever you choose. Then take the Bridgestone Winter Driving School (pre-requisite for my event) - and they are sponsored by toyota, and they run the trucks too. My Summary is simple: The best winter tire is the one driven by someone with good training in winter driving techniques.

Cheers

Scott J
94 FZJ80 Supercharged
www.gruppe-q.com

How about the Blizzak in LT235/85R16 compared to the one you are using? THAT is the question I would like answered!
 
...
I would definitely go with the LT and live with the harsher ride. Bottom line is, I want the grippiest tire there is.

The point is that's not a primary function of sidewall height and cross section. Sidewall height will give more flex, and cross-section may or may not give more traction. As a rule, harsher ride means less traction.. I also might question what parameters you are looking for, and what's your skillset. IME, a taller tire will roll over sooner in cornering, which causes less tread to stay in contact with the surface.

So far, I have not seen a side by side comparison between tires of the same brand but different types (P and wide versus LT and Narrow). How can someone make an informed decision based on so little data and so wideley differing tire sizes, types, vehicle and weather configurations? You saw it for yourself, there is no clear winner, it's impossible!

I don't agree, I say all you need to do is define winter driving (and maybe winter driver). The clear winner, is the one that covers the broadest range of that definition. I define my winter driving as on road, not offroad, so the Blizzack is the clear winner, and by a far margin frankly.

In my case my final decision will be determined by the difference between LT tall and narrow tires versus wide and shallower P tires.

Which may define a very narrow range of winter driving. Forget gas mileage with a tall narrow tire, look at tire weight, it'll make a bigger difference than footprint on our trucks. My final decision comes down to mounting a variety of winter tires and comparing them every year to the standard Blizzack for 10 years. Getting down the difference between wide vs narrow in 'road snow' conditions really is tough to isolate IMO/E. I've driven the 195/65 and the 205/60 on the audi turbo quattro with lockers back to back, and found the sidewall flex to be less on the 60 series tire, but hard to comment beyond the personal preference.

Like I said, I have not found the tire that would be ideal in my opinion, that is, in 235/75 P or SUV configuration but in a tall tire, which probbaly would require a 18 or 20 inch rim.

If we agree that ice, road snow, and packed snow are in the mix, IMO/E, the DMZ3 in the stock size and weight is as close to ideal for those winter conditions as you can get. Any choice in tire is going to be a compromise. I don't agree that one can't find the least amount of compromises, or the broadest spectrum of winter performance, in a single tire. Since Steamboat allows no studs or chains on their ice/snow tracks, it takes monumental driving skill to overcome a standard issue blizzack ice tire. BTTT for 10 years, before gettting lazy/old/wise and just running the Blizzacks myself.

That said, I'll insert my shameless plug... Gruppe-q registration is open for Jan 21 and 22, 2008

:cheers:

Scott J
94 FZJ80 Supercharged
www.gruppe-q.com
 
The point is that's not a primary function of sidewall height and cross section. Sidewall height will give more flex, and cross-section may or may not give more traction. As a rule, harsher ride means less traction.. I also might question what parameters you are looking for, and what's your skillset. IME, a taller tire will roll over sooner in cornering, which causes less tread to stay in contact with the surface.

Good point for cornering, I don't disagree with your assessment at all. And I know that I can come across as a pain in the butt. I've never taken anything for granted and have always questioned everything. Basic scientific attitude.

I don't agree, I say all you need to do is define winter driving (and maybe winter driver). The clear winner, is the one that covers the broadest range of that definition. I define my winter driving as on road, not offroad, so the Blizzack is the clear winner, and by a far margin frankly.



Which may define a very narrow range of winter driving. Forget gas mileage with a tall narrow tire, look at tire weight, it'll make a bigger difference than footprint on our trucks.

Hmm... i can understand the rollling weight argument for stop and go and the science behind it (inertia and power expense to accelerate a greater mass over a larger diameter) but not once constant spped is attained and maintained on the highway. Then we are left with rolling resistance and aero or semi fluid (snow) resistance.

My final decision comes down to mounting a variety of winter tires and comparing them every year to the standard Blizzack for 10 years. Getting down the difference between wide vs narrow in 'road snow' conditions really is tough to isolate IMO/E. I've driven the 195/65 and the 205/60 on the audi turbo quattro with lockers back to back, and found the sidewall flex to be less on the 60 series tire, but hard to comment beyond the personal preference.

205/195=1.05
275/235=1.17

I understand there isn't much of a difference between a 205 and a 195, but between a 275 or 265 and a 235, it's quite substantial wouldn't you agree?

If we agree that ice, road snow, and packed snow are in the mix, IMO/E, the DMZ3 in the stock size and weight is as close to ideal for those winter conditions as you can get. Any choice in tire is going to be a compromise. I don't agree that one can't find the least amount of compromises, or the broadest spectrum of winter performance, in a single tire. Since Steamboat allows no studs or chains on their ice/snow tracks, it takes monumental driving skill to overcome a standard issue blizzack ice tire. BTTT for 10 years, before gettting lazy/old/wise and just running the Blizzacks myself.

That said, I'll insert my shameless plug... Gruppe-q registration is open for Jan 21 and 22, 2008

:cheers:

Scott J
94 FZJ80 Supercharged
www.gruppe-q.com
Thanks as always for your imput, and hope I'm not too much of a pain in the butt ;)
 
Since Steamboat allows no studs or chains on their ice/snow tracks, it takes monumental driving skill to overcome a standard issue blizzack ice tire. BTTT for 10 years, before gettting lazy/old/wise and just running the Blizzacks myself.

That said, I'll insert my shameless plug... Gruppe-q registration is open for Jan 21 and 22, 2008

:cheers:

Scott J
94 FZJ80 Supercharged
www.gruppe-q.com

Scott, there is an interesting side-subject in that post there - at any point that you know of, did Bridgestone develop a studded tire and then abandon that design in favor of our modern day Blizzak or, have they never ever endorsed studded tires? If the second scenario is the case historically and if they do not currently allow studs on the track, did they ever allow studs on the track either for racing purposes or for testing purposes? Lastly, do they allow other makes and models of tire there? I'm just trying to see how many actual comparisons that track there allows; if it is a Blizzak only event we still cannot truly compare the Blizzaks to anything else ... if it is a rubber-only winter-tire event we still cannot truly compare studs to studless, etc. I think you see where I'm going to go with this thought - you would think that at least for the fullest advertising effect they would shoe up similar vehicles with Blizzaks, AT's, MT's and studs and truly compare them, again, at least for the fullest advertising effect. :cheers:
 
Scott, there is an interesting side-subject in that post there - at any point that you know of, did Bridgestone develop a studded tire and then abandon that design in favor of our modern day Blizzak or, have they never ever endorsed studded tires?

Bridgstone had snows way back when, not sure about studs, but if you take a read of the winter comparos on Tire Rack website, the studded snows came in fourth place on ice (like on an ice rink), with the Blizzacks in first.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/testDisplay.jsp?ttid=94
As of now, I don't believe Bridgestone carries any studdable snows. Haka still does.

If the second scenario is the case historically and if they do not currently allow studs on the track, did they ever allow studs on the track either for racing purposes or for testing purposes?

Given the price of the track per day without studs, I'd guess they would, but get yer ck book ready. Just to be clear, this is an independent private track facility, the tire sponsor is Blizzack. They do a lot of independent tire tests, including for tire rack. The problem with studs, is they tear an ice track (and our public roads) to shreds, and quickly.

Lastly, do they allow other makes and models of tire there?

Sure, they encourage it. In fact for the first 10 years, the track owner (a fellow ProRallyist) would seek me out to see what I was bringing to the party. Right now, the only one that is close to the Blizzack is the Haka Rsi. I was able to outdrive the Blizzacks with non-ice Hakka Q's one year, but it was a lot of work. I found the grip on both the Blizzack and the Rsi to be basically identical. So far so that I couldn't tell which tire I was on. My comment at the time (3 years ago Rsi's were just intro'd) "It's about time"

I'm just trying to see how many actual comparisons that track there allows; if it is a Blizzak only event we still cannot truly compare the Blizzaks to anything else ... if it is a rubber-only winter-tire event we still cannot truly compare studs to studless, etc. I think you see where I'm going to go with this thought - you would think that at least for the fullest advertising effect they would shoe up similar vehicles with Blizzaks, AT's, MT's and studs and truly compare them, again, at least for the fullest advertising effect. :cheers:

TC, I can tell you this much from 15 years at that venue, it would be very difficult to best the Blizzack on a ice/snow track or road, period. You can possibly outdrive a Blizzack driver with some other snows, but the skillset has to be extremely high. Studs are old school, and Tire Rack has strayed from them for a while after years of testing them against the ice tire compounds. For slow bone crushing ice drive to the fishing shanty maybe studs. But studs don't do well with high speed wheel spin, and don't adapt to varying conditions well. AT, MT I wouldn't allow at my event at Steamboat, you wouldn't get around the multi-plane ice course with them. I put out the warning to folks in the pre-event packet that any non studded winter tires are welcome, but the best enjoyment of the event comes from either the Rsi or the Blizzack. Yes, they are that good.

Hmm... i can understand the rollling weight argument for stop and go and the science behind it (inertia and power expense to accelerate a greater mass over a larger diameter) but not once constant spped is attained and maintained on the highway. Then we are left with rolling resistance and aero or semi fluid (snow) resistance.

Theoretically maybe, but when is speed a constant? I say your gas tank mileage with big heavy tires is a multitude of inertia and power expenditure events to accelerate greater mass over a larger diameter.

83bj60 said:
205/195=1.05
275/235=1.17

I understand there isn't much of a difference between a 205 and a 195, but between a 275 or 265 and a 235, it's quite substantial wouldn't you agree?

I think a 1.5in increase in tread width on a 5000lb aero brick, isn't going to give you enough of a difference in gas mileage to isolate. Light wheels and light tires can give significant and measureable gains in mileage. IME, this is especially true of the offroad tires that get 20lbs and beyond *each* in weight vs the stock LTX. The Blizzack, on the other hand, comes in at the same weight as the LTX, and I noticed no difference in mileage with them.

I do believe there is a best all around winter tire. But my definition of that is clear, and my practice in those conditions extensive. And always happy to have those thinking there is better, sign-up. G-q Event requires at least the 1/2 day Bridgestone School as a prerequisite. I plug that school's benefit as a must-do for anyone that drives in winter. And they sell a lot of Blizzacks because of it.

Scott J
94 FZJ80 Supercharged mit DMZ3
www.gruppe-q.com
 
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Fellas, just as another data point I just saw something that was translated apparently from a Finnish tire comparison that included all sorts of studded and studless tires. Although the graphs there indicate that the studs help in ice between 20 degrees and 32 degrees, the acceleration braking and cornering ability of all the studded tires seemed to drop drastically with ice below 20 degrees. Apparently the harder the ice is the less the studs help (sorta makes sense). Just wanted to throw this in to the thoughts so far. Thanks.

Ohh. I'm looking for the link to that article - I bumped into it while reading a Subaru forum on winter tires, that had a link to diesel truck forum with a particular thread on snow plow tires, sand truck tires, city utility vehicle tires and then that thread linked to an article that someone translated from Finnish. Try googling that one! Anyways, when I find it again I will post it. :cheers:
 
And just to keep the confusion about what's the ideal choice going, keep in mine you're not buying tires just to drive on ice with. In a typical winter for most of us northern climate dwellers, only 5% of your miles will actually be on ice. Studded traditional tires, siped muds, siped A/Ts and the like generally are poor in dry traction, wet traction and as noted some even have a narrow temp range at which they are most effective.

A winter specific Blizzak or Latitude will easily out perform those solutions on the 95% conditions - not even close. So for real life overall best choice for max winter traction it's very difficult to conclude anything but a winter specific new generation nonstudded tire would be best.

DougM
 
Yep paralysis by analysis:).
 
Yep paralysis by analysis:).
(shrug) and I remember an old timer telling me 'It's good enough for us white folk' and he was constantly fixing his truck as well... I presume it was always 'good enough'... Yeah right! :rolleyes:
 
Although the graphs there indicate that the studs help in ice between 20 degrees and 32 degrees, the acceleration braking and cornering ability of all the studded tires seemed to drop drastically with ice below 20 degrees.

Warm ice is a lot slicker than cold ice.
 
Warm ice is a lot slicker than cold ice.
Yes, but it's also a lot softer and studs will dig easier in warm ice. Furthermore in colder weather rubber is harder and will be less pliable than in warmer weather. Nothing unexpected about that. What was your point?
 

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