Hello, all. I have the same issue on my ‘06 LX with only 105,000 miles. I have been following every post I can find for the last year trying to resolve. I have done/replaced everything I can think of. I do not like the shotgun parts replacing technique, but there are no other clear directions. Here’s what I’ve done.
1.) Shorted diag. Terminals in diagnostics port under hood and attempted to clear: codes 68 & 43 continue, won’t clear.
2.) Purchased and utilized a computer based diagnostic tool: codes 68 & 43
3.) Purchased and utilized TechStream (very cool), ran complete sensors test, attempted to clear, no help, reports attached here.
4.) replaced every known (to me) component with OEM parts. This includes:
a: New from Toyota, complete brake actuator (master cylinder) $1,300
b: abs/VSC skid control (under dash), used from eBay, no change, reinstalled original part.
c: Translator computer and the little box next to it, used from eBay, no change, reinstalled original parts.
d: yaw sensor used from eBay, no change, reinstalled original part.
e: all position switches on transfer case, new from Toyota. Original switches did test bad (no continuity in open or closed position), no change, new parts remain in place
f: all relays in fuse box under hood, new, no change, reinstalled original parts.
g: all 4 abs/speed sensors, new, aftermarket. I figured these would be a good troubleshooting tool just to rule out those sensors. Both sets, OEM and aftermarket new show matching speeds in TechStream, don’t think they’re the problem. Aftermarket still in place.
I think there’s more. Moving on. I tested, individually every fuse in the car, I purchased and utilized an inductive circuit tester and did my best to test every wire from the transfer case to the abs computer, for the L4 code. Side note, when I put the transfer case in low range and clear the codes through TechStream, the L4 code clears (the rest remain) as soon as I put it back in high range, the code returns. Also, I attempted to clear codes through TechStream after every failed attempt to correct. I followed all bleeding instructions for the new actuator. I’ve spoken to several shops (Toyota and Lexus), there are only a few old timers that ever worked on these in the first place and they’ve all moved on to newer models with newer technology so it’s a “bring it in and we’ll see if someone can figure it out” scenario.
I’ll stop here for anyone to engage, then I’ll continue.
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