ABS, VSC Trac, VSC Off, and Brake lights on

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Hello All. I am having a similar problem. I have ABS, CEL, VSC TRAC, VSC OFF, BRAKE lights all on. I jumpered terminal TC & E1 in the engine compartment diagnostic connector and didn't receive any codes I could make sense of. Instead the Cruise control, Height Control OFF, and Airbag lights flashed. Last work I had done was in February, power steering rack and some hoses replaced, alternator. I also don't have the jumper on the WA and WB terminals on the diagnostic connector. Should I have that in place? I am not sure if it was ever there. I did have the shop (not dealer) look at it and they could not read any codes or find anything wrong with the ABS system. Thanks for any help.
 
Hello All. I am having a similar problem. I have ABS, CEL, VSC TRAC, VSC OFF, BRAKE lights all on. I jumpered terminal TC & E1 in the engine compartment diagnostic connector and didn't receive any codes I could make sense of. Instead the Cruise control, Height Control OFF, and Airbag lights flashed. Last work I had done was in February, power steering rack and some hoses replaced, alternator. I also don't have the jumper on the WA and WB terminals on the diagnostic connector. Should I have that in place? I am not sure if it was ever there. I did have the shop (not dealer) look at it and they could not read any codes or find anything wrong with the ABS system. Thanks for any help.
Your best bet would be to have someone with techstream plug into it to access the codes. Trying to read the blinking lights is actually pretty difficult and confusing if you're not very familiar with the procedure. If you have those lights lights on the dash, guaranteed you have codes present.
It may be more productive to start a new thread, such as, "Can someone with Techstream in the Denver area please help me with accessing ABS codes".
Also, if you had your location shown in your avitar it may motivate more respones from people local to you for all of your posts. For example, if you were from Sarasota I'd be PMing you to meet up and plug in techstream right now to give you a hand!
 
Your best bet would be to have someone with techstream plug into it to access the codes. Trying to read the blinking lights is actually pretty difficult and confusing if you're not very familiar with the procedure. If you have those lights lights on the dash, guaranteed you have codes present.
It may be more productive to start a new thread, such as, "Can someone with Techstream in the Denver area please help me with accessing ABS codes".
Also, if you had your location shown in your avitar it may motivate more respones from people local to you for all of your posts. For example, if you were from Sarasota I'd be PMing you to meet up and plug in techstream right now to give you a hand!
Thanks for this! I will give it a shot.
 
Hey y'all,
I ran into the same issue today - ABS, VSC TRAC, VSC OFF, BRAKE lights on with the buzzer. Based on the thread it seems like the brake booster failing. I'm at 140K miles (2002).
Looking to revive this thread if there are any updates on possible fixes, checks I can ran before going into the dealership.
Thanks!
 
Always check for leaks in the hard hoses. Mine threw these codes when one of my rear hoses (the starting point is under the hood) had corroded and sprang a pinhole leak. With the truck on, and hood raised I could see it spraying, with the truck off not at all. No real puddle as the fluid would collect on the skid plate.
 
Hello, all. I have the same issue on my ‘06 LX with only 105,000 miles. I have been following every post I can find for the last year trying to resolve. I have done/replaced everything I can think of. I do not like the shotgun parts replacing technique, but there are no other clear directions. Here’s what I’ve done.
1.) Shorted diag. Terminals in diagnostics port under hood and attempted to clear: codes 68 & 43 continue, won’t clear.
2.) Purchased and utilized a computer based diagnostic tool: codes 68 & 43
3.) Purchased and utilized TechStream (very cool), ran complete sensors test, attempted to clear, no help, reports attached here.
4.) replaced every known (to me) component with OEM parts. This includes:
a: New from Toyota, complete brake actuator (master cylinder) $1,300
b: abs/VSC skid control (under dash), used from eBay, no change, reinstalled original part.
c: Translator computer and the little box next to it, used from eBay, no change, reinstalled original parts.
d: yaw sensor used from eBay, no change, reinstalled original part.
e: all position switches on transfer case, new from Toyota. Original switches did test bad (no continuity in open or closed position), no change, new parts remain in place
f: all relays in fuse box under hood, new, no change, reinstalled original parts.
g: all 4 abs/speed sensors, new, aftermarket. I figured these would be a good troubleshooting tool just to rule out those sensors. Both sets, OEM and aftermarket new show matching speeds in TechStream, don’t think they’re the problem. Aftermarket still in place.
I think there’s more. Moving on. I tested, individually every fuse in the car, I purchased and utilized an inductive circuit tester and did my best to test every wire from the transfer case to the abs computer, for the L4 code. Side note, when I put the transfer case in low range and clear the codes through TechStream, the L4 code clears (the rest remain) as soon as I put it back in high range, the code returns. Also, I attempted to clear codes through TechStream after every failed attempt to correct. I followed all bleeding instructions for the new actuator. I’ve spoken to several shops (Toyota and Lexus), there are only a few old timers that ever worked on these in the first place and they’ve all moved on to newer models with newer technology so it’s a “bring it in and we’ll see if someone can figure it out” scenario.
I’ll stop here for anyone to engage, then I’ll continue.

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Hello, all. I have the same issue on my ‘06 LX with only 105,000 miles. I have been following every post I can find for the last year trying to resolve. I have done/replaced everything I can think of. I do not like the shotgun parts replacing technique, but there are no other clear directions. Here’s what I’ve done.
1.) Shorted diag. Terminals in diagnostics port under hood and attempted to clear: codes 68 & 43 continue, won’t clear.
2.) Purchased and utilized a computer based diagnostic tool: codes 68 & 43
3.) Purchased and utilized TechStream (very cool), ran complete sensors test, attempted to clear, no help, reports attached here.
4.) replaced every known (to me) component with OEM parts. This includes:
a: New from Toyota, complete brake actuator (master cylinder) $1,300
b: abs/VSC skid control (under dash), used from eBay, no change, reinstalled original part.
c: Translator computer and the little box next to it, used from eBay, no change, reinstalled original parts.
d: yaw sensor used from eBay, no change, reinstalled original part.
e: all position switches on transfer case, new from Toyota. Original switches did test bad (no continuity in open or closed position), no change, new parts remain in place
f: all relays in fuse box under hood, new, no change, reinstalled original parts.
g: all 4 abs/speed sensors, new, aftermarket. I figured these would be a good troubleshooting tool just to rule out those sensors. Both sets, OEM and aftermarket new show matching speeds in TechStream, don’t think they’re the problem. Aftermarket still in place.
I think there’s more. Moving on. I tested, individually every fuse in the car, I purchased and utilized an inductive circuit tester and did my best to test every wire from the transfer case to the abs computer, for the L4 code. Side note, when I put the transfer case in low range and clear the codes through TechStream, the L4 code clears (the rest remain) as soon as I put it back in high range, the code returns. Also, I attempted to clear codes through TechStream after every failed attempt to correct. I followed all bleeding instructions for the new actuator. I’ve spoken to several shops (Toyota and Lexus), there are only a few old timers that ever worked on these in the first place and they’ve all moved on to newer models with newer technology so it’s a “bring it in and we’ll see if someone can figure it out” scenario.
I’ll stop here for anyone to engage, then I’ll continue.

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Also, all testing was performed with a new battery and with a charger installed to rule out low voltage concerns
 

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