About to replace rubber brake lines, newb question... (1 Viewer)

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Apr 24, 2014
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Salt Lake City, UT
I bought a flare nut wrench to remove the rubber brake line from the metal line.

I will hit the nut with penetrating oil for a few days and I am just hoping it comes off easy. This is the last thing after my front axle/diff rebuild to do before I can drive it!

My question is (I have been looking for a good video but cant find one), when trying to loosen the nut with the flare wrench should i be using a 2nd wrench on the rubber brake line nut? I do NOT want to bend/twist the metal line....

I am also wondering (my rubber lines are TERRIBLE) if I should just drive it do a shop for this? I have bled brakes before... but if the metal line brakes I am going to be really mad...
 
Ha! We are in the same boat. Fresh knuckle rebuild and I've got all new flexible brake hoses needing to be installed. I tried to remove the DS hard line that's on the axle, but it wouldn't budge even after penetrating oil. I think I'll be ordering some new hard lines. Rear brakes are next.

I was only using a box wrench on the hard line. It did not move, and I didn't want to twist it, making the truck undrivable.
 
I recall using two wrenches to avoid twisting the lines. Two flare nut wrenches would be ideal but do what you can with what you've got. Penetrating oil could be a good idea, heat maybe not so much. I had a heck of a time when I replaced mine. After 20-odd years and nearly 300k they were stubborn.
 
Try to tighten it a bit then loosen. You can use a torch as well, just be careful since it won't take much on these small nuts. Also try a torch for a few seconds then spray with PB blaster while still hot.

Any time you can fit two wrenches it will be helpful. You can push one and pull the other (like holding a pair of scissors) and it will reduce the risk of stripping the nuts.
 
Yes, on brake lines, try to ALWAYS use two flare-nut wrenches. Like @ZachR stated, hold likem like scissors so you use the power of your grip to loosen, not separated and ending up twisting out of line.

It's also common to tighten just a tad, then loosen.

Be aware that when it does finally "break loose" don't just start twisting away. Ease it back and forth, back and forth to loosen up the area on the fitting over the brake line so it spins, not twist off the hard line. Once it is cracked, DON'T use penetrating oil, as you DON'T want oil in your brake lines.

Sometimes, light impact from a small hammer can help release the grip it has by tapping on both sides of the joint with two hammers. Small hammers, light tapping. This helps release dust, dirt, rust that has built up over time.
 
I use one wrench on the rubber line at the fitting, then a line or flare wrench on the hard line, they will prob be pretty tight and take quite a bit of torque to loosen if never been off. I do a gravity bleed for the brake bleeding
 
hard lines premade from Toyota are pretty cheap, and the little connecting one on the passenger front side seems to always twist off or be too compressed making a flare at the end, so I have to replace it more often than not.

My point is spend another $20 and buy new hard lines from Mr. T.
 
Thanks for all the input guys. I will cross my fingers and maybe they won't be too seized...

My point is spend another $20 and buy new hard lines from Mr. T.

Valid point, I will try not to stress about it.. I am just so ready to drive this and get my weekends back! Seems like everything I do just causes more to do.
 
I have found that flare nut wrenches usually will hold good on newer lines. But on older or rusty lines, I end up stripping out the nut. It's a pretty soft metal. At this point I use a pair of vise grips, clamp down hard on the flat sides of the stripped nut, and do what @BILT4ME said with loosening. Comes loose every time. This is if you don't want to replace your hard line, and is where you go to rationalizing "well I'm going to have to replace it anyways, so what the heck. Let's see if it'll come loose!" The best option is replacing everything with new, but I'm cheap, and the flare seals just as good as a new one, the nut just doesn't look pretty anymore. A cheap alternative to replacing with new, waiting on parts to come in, etc. Hope this helps.
 

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