A442F Transmission leak (1 Viewer)

[Sc0-]

Leaking between the torque converter and input shaft, haven't pulled it apart yet. Running for about 10 minutes I have about a 6" puddle in the driveway and can see the fluid through the bellhousing inspection window.

These are the part numbers that I have so far for seals, one might not be needed but can't tell? One is the torque converter seal and the other is the O-ring for the front pump seal.
9031142010
9030199029
9030199033

Anything else to do while I have it torn apart besides the rear main seal?

 

[misfittoy]

Take pictures please!

 

[Sc0-]

Spring from the seal lip was found loose, possible cause of my leak...

 

[Sc0-]

Shinanigans, torque converter snout should be smooth and that bushing in the picture friction welded itself, originally is supposed to stay in the pump. Transmission acted normal and drove fine, except for the fluid loss when the engine was running...

 

[miatafreak]

Shinanigans, torque converter snout should be smooth and that bushing in the picture friction welded itself, originally is supposed to stay in the pump. Transmission acted normal and drove fine, except for the fluid loss when the engine was running...

Bumping this because I think I'm encountering a similar problem. I recently replaced my pump seal and reassembled everything only to find that it still leaks. My torque converter had this same "ring" on it after I pulled it. Should it have been retained on the transmission center shaft? Mine had similar surface marks so I scuffed it with scotchbrite and reassembled everything with a new seal.

If this should've stayed in the "BODY SUB-ASSY, FR OIL PUMP & GEAR", anybody know what part number this ring is? I can find the whole assembly but not just the ring and would like to avoid spending $400+ when I don't have to.

 

[Malleus]

The pump bushing is not a service item:

However, that pump assembly is common to all AXX series transmissions. Find a Camry, Corolla, Lexus, etc., and steal one. I'd get the entire pump, though. The rotors and case are machined as a set. The specifications for the bushing size are in the unit repair manual, in the Resources section. If you really want a new pump, try
Alto Products
Cascade
They both, along with others, sell OEM parts to rebuilders.

 

[miatafreak]

I found this handy diagram here so I was able to track down just the bushing. Now the question is how far down the rabbit hole I need to go here. When I pulled the seal initially I did the filter and there was definitely some material on all of the magnets in the pan. It was all pretty greasy so it didn't look silver, unsure if clutch material or straight metal. No clue if it was an alarming amount so now I'm trying to decide if I need to do anything beyond the bushing + pump.

At a minimum I'm leaning towards replacing the whole pump just to be safe and not have to pull this again in 6 months when the bushing spins again. Should I be thinking about getting the trans rebuilt from whatever metal was pushed through everything from the old bushing rattling around? If the shaft on the TC looks beat up after I pull the bushing off should I get the TC rebuilt? The truck has ~120,000 miles and has shifted super smooth for the ~year I've owned it. Infinitely smoother than my old 91 did with similar mileage. I did notice it seemed to stall out easily in 4L on trails pulling out of ditches and things, not sure if that's normal or not.

 

[Malleus]

Good luck actually finding that bushing. It would be easier to replace the pump.

Yes, replace the torque converter; I have not found anyone to rebuild them, however you can buy rebuilt units, and swap yours for a core. Florida Torque Converters and Precision of NH has them, but Precision only sells through their dealers (large pain). I bought mine from FTC. Rebuilding the torque converter requires cutting it apart; they are not designed to be "user serviceable".

If you didn't experience any operational problems, replacing the failed parts is probably all you need to do. If you have the transmission down already, clean the valve body, accumulator pistons and pan thoroughly with kerosene; resist the temptation to turn the case over on its side until you've removed the valve body and drained the case.

Once you remove the valve body, you'll be able to assess the condition of the clutches. If they look OK, you can test the pistons easily. All the information you need is in the unit repair manual, in the 80 series section of the Resources section.

The FSM procedure to remove the pump requires a puller, which you won't find, but there are two threaded holes in the face of the pump you can use as jackscrew points. IIRC, you'll need screws at least 60-mm long. The pump seal face is only about 6-8-mm long, but you have to reach the basket below the pump to push it out. Just be sure to run them in simultaneously, or you'll damage the pump seal bore in the case. If you do that, the case is unusable. It's best to do this with the case standing on its tail. You can use a milk crate with a hole in the bottom.

Standing the case on its tail will also allow you to easily inspect the clutches and check the piston operation. All you're looking for is motion. It will not be possible to verify exactly how much travel each piston has without tearing the transmission apart, but you can gauge close enough for diagnosis with a 6-inch steel scale.

I would be concerned more with cleaning the cooling system. The transmission is designed to reject trash into the pan, however the torque converter and cooling system traps it. There is no way, without a torque converter shop, to thoroughly clean it, but you can, and should, flush the cooling system. You'll need a drill- or hand-operated pump, a bottle of kerosene and an empty container to catch the trash. Connect the pump and fresh kerosene to the cooler outlet line from the transmission, and run all the old ATF out. Once clean kerosene is flowing out of the inlet tube, pump new ATF into the system, using the same method. If you fail to do this, any transmission cleaning you do will be a waste of time, since the pump will recirculate all the contaminated fluid from the lines, radiator and cooler back into the transmission. You can flush the fluid in either direction; a case can be made for backflushing, but IMO any flushing is better than no flushing.

 

[miatafreak]

The pump bushing is not a service item:
View attachment 3441182
However, that pump assembly is common to all AXX series transmissions. Find a Camry, Corolla, Lexus, etc., and steal one. I'd get teh entire pump, though. The rotors and case are machined as a set. The specifications for the bushing size are in the unit repair manual, in the Resources section. If you really want a new pump, try
Alto Products
Cascade
They both, along with others, sell OEM parts to rebuilders.

My pump seems pretty hosed but I’m having trouble sourcing a replacement. The few US sources that have them are priced crazy high ($600-$1200) and overseas are $300-$450 but back ordered a month or two.

Do you have any proof of the pump being a common part? Everything I’m finding lists it as common amongst land cruisers, mega cruisers, and some sort of van but nothing else.

 

[Malleus]

Look up the part number on whichever model you can find in a salvage yard and prove it to yourself. Any e-commerce site, such as PartSouq has part lists.

 

[miatafreak]

Look up the part number on whichever model you can find in a salvage yard and prove it to yourself. Any e-commerce site, such as PartSouq has part lists.

I think I'm figuring some things out here...

It looks like my Cruiser and all 80 series from 1991-1995 had pumps that were PN 3503536010 which were exclusively in Land Cruisers, Mega Cruisers, and some random van. These are expensive/hard to find. From 1995-1998 the pumps were switched to PN 3530135010 which was used in a wide variety of Toyotas and are reasonably priced/easier to find.

The pumps look significantly different. 3503536010 has 11 holes and is shown here:

Here's 3530135010, it has 7 holes.

I can't just swap out the front half of pump like I originally intended due to the hole mismatch, but any clue if I can swap out the whole pump for the more readiliy available 3530135010?

 

[Malleus]

The part numbers you have are for the upper housing and gear set, not the upper housing itself. Toyota lists new gears in different widths, to account for internal wear, but I haven't had the need to find out whether they're still available.

The upper housing bolts directly onto the transmission case, so it has to have the same bolt pattern as the case.

Just to be clear, which transmission are you servicing?

 

[miatafreak]

It's 1994 A442F in a HDJ81

 

[Malleus]

I see. So, you're either on the hunt for an A442F (from an 80 series) or an A440F (from a 62 series). I assume you've posted in the classifieds and didn't get a response. Have you tried @slow95z or @arcteryx (I think he has an A442F complete, less transfer)?

One of the Aussies may be able to help locate the part down there. @mudgudgeon

 

[Malleus]

I put out a mayday on the Old North State clubhouse buying page. I assume you've tried the clubs around you?

 

[slow95z]

Someone give me the TLDR on what he needs

 

[miatafreak]

Appreciate the help folks! I've put the word out locally and reached out through some Aussie Facebook groups as well. I think I have a line on one in NZ but the guy seemed somewhat reluctant.

This appears to be what I need. A pump from a '94 or older A442F/A440. Should have 11 holes and looks like this:

I only really need the front half, number 510 in this diagram, but would take the whole thing if need be:

 

[mudgudgeon]

Try Wholesale Automatics in Melbourne Australia.
Beyond that, no idea. Auto are not my thing

 

[Malleus]

Someone give me the TLDR on what he needs

Front pump flange for an A442F, failing that, the entire pump assembly.

 

[slow95z]

Front pump flange for an A442F, failing that, the wntire pump assembly.

oh yeah, i got that. thanks man.