- Thread starter
- #21
I have Method bead locks right now. Honestly not a fan. I think if I had to do it over again, I’d do KMC Enduros
Builds A TX Build 2.0 (1990 HZJ73) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter mxtaco48
- Start date
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I would recomend to go for a larger clutch during the engine swap. 300mm LC100 press, an if you have H55f geabox, there is a disc from Izuzu that fits. Machining of the flywheel or a new one is needed for the conversion
FJBen
SILVER Star
1hd will be sweet in there.
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No worries, I just never had any issues with W/E bead locks. Excellent wheel but not very cheap either.
Cheers
- Thread starter
- #25
I think I'm keeping it simple and just doing a HD terrain tamer clutch for my H55f.
- Thread starter
- #26
You're right, Methods are very expensive. That's the main reason I think I should've gone a different route.
The KMC enduros give me a back up to installing the tires on the wheels in case there is an issue with the ring. You can install the tire like a normal wheel/tire bead. No luck with the Methods. That's what screwed me before my CO trip.
The KMC enduros give me a back up to installing the tires on the wheels in case there is an issue with the ring. You can install the tire like a normal wheel/tire bead. No luck with the Methods. That's what screwed me before my CO trip.
- Thread starter
- #27
In preparation for the 1HDT, I dropped off the manifold to be drilled and tapped for an EGT probe. Luckily I had the manifold from my previous plans to turbo the 1HZ. I was Able to do this before the 1HDT got here. I’m using the Auberins round gauge in green light to kinda match the interior lights.
- Thread starter
- #28
In prep for the new engine, I ordered a new water pump, main seal, and belts.
I've been assured that the BEB's have been done on the 1HDT as well as the injectors rebuilt.
My plan is to run a 3" straight exhaust pipe in place of the stock one. This should lower EGT's. Due to the issues with cooling, I am also going to run a probe into the coolant to track that. I went with Auber's gauges because they allow an audible alert when temps go above your set allowable rate. There are some 90dB alarms I found on amazon for <$10 I'll be using.
I've been assured that the BEB's have been done on the 1HDT as well as the injectors rebuilt.
My plan is to run a 3" straight exhaust pipe in place of the stock one. This should lower EGT's. Due to the issues with cooling, I am also going to run a probe into the coolant to track that. I went with Auber's gauges because they allow an audible alert when temps go above your set allowable rate. There are some 90dB alarms I found on amazon for <$10 I'll be using.
I'm glad I found your build thread! Where are you planning to mount this guy?
- Thread starter
- #30
There's a circa-2003 toyota radio in my radio din now. I am going to remove it and replace it with 1/8" HDPE plastic. I'll cut the holes in it. I'll be running at least one more gauge so it'll give me a good spot to keep an eye on it. I use an Escape Gear dash pad that I love so I'm not wanting to use the OEM altimeter pod but if I didnt have my dash pad, I would be using one. I use bluetooth on my phone for music straight to my amp so my radio din is useless.
BTW, I'm giving Escape Gear a ton of support for their gear. Even though its so simple as a dash pad, those extra pockets come in handy for quick storage of anything you don't want lying around.
I need to finish some rock sliders for Round Up but after that, I am going to start on the dash.
BTW, I'm giving Escape Gear a ton of support for their gear. Even though its so simple as a dash pad, those extra pockets come in handy for quick storage of anything you don't want lying around.
I need to finish some rock sliders for Round Up but after that, I am going to start on the dash.
Looking forward to the work results! Heading to escape gears site now... I bought an SAAS 2 pod pillar mount for a boost and Egt gauge since I don't have the alt/temp pod in my dash either.
- Thread starter
- #32
It looks like I've been busier building than finishing up my build thread. I'll try to update this thread with pics and narration in the next couple of days.
I got the 1HZ out and 1HDT installed. The install went relatively smooth for someone who hasn't done an engine swap before. If I had everything I needed, the swap is a weekend project.
Prior to install, the 1HDT got a new water pump, belts (including timing), hoses, gaskets for manifolds and several others. I did not do the clutch prior to install. There were no issues with my clutch prior to removing the 1HZ. Eventually, when I burn up this clutch, I'll upgrade to the HD one. At $850, I couldnt justify it until I burned this one up.
Additionally, I had the IP rebuilt at Pacific Fuel Injection in Portland, OR and they did an great job. I had the turbo rebuilt locally at Majestic Turbo in Dallas after the install because I blew the seals out. I am still not sure how or why that happened.
I built my own 3" exhaust using exhaust parts from Summit Racing. The exhaust has lot of 45 degree angles due to the exhaust going from engine bay to outside the frame, back over the frame and over the drivetrain before going to the rear of the rig. I spent between $550-700 on the exhaust in parts. Sorry for the range, I really can't remember but I am pretty sure an exhaust shop would have charged $1k+.
I installed 2 Aubers gauges. One for EGT and one for water temp. I did the EGT pre-turbo and used the stock location for the water temps. I mounted the gauges in the radio location. I think I may move these to the A-pillar eventually because they'd be easier to watch out of the corner of my eye. My EGT's are getting too high too quickly for my tastes so I think I am going to either do an intercooler or a water-methane injection system. I'm weighing my options for those right now. My EGT's spike too quickly above 1250 degrees F and too often for my tastes when on the highway.
If there's anything specific yall want to see a pic of, just ask.
I got the 1HZ out and 1HDT installed. The install went relatively smooth for someone who hasn't done an engine swap before. If I had everything I needed, the swap is a weekend project.
Prior to install, the 1HDT got a new water pump, belts (including timing), hoses, gaskets for manifolds and several others. I did not do the clutch prior to install. There were no issues with my clutch prior to removing the 1HZ. Eventually, when I burn up this clutch, I'll upgrade to the HD one. At $850, I couldnt justify it until I burned this one up.
Additionally, I had the IP rebuilt at Pacific Fuel Injection in Portland, OR and they did an great job. I had the turbo rebuilt locally at Majestic Turbo in Dallas after the install because I blew the seals out. I am still not sure how or why that happened.
I built my own 3" exhaust using exhaust parts from Summit Racing. The exhaust has lot of 45 degree angles due to the exhaust going from engine bay to outside the frame, back over the frame and over the drivetrain before going to the rear of the rig. I spent between $550-700 on the exhaust in parts. Sorry for the range, I really can't remember but I am pretty sure an exhaust shop would have charged $1k+.
I installed 2 Aubers gauges. One for EGT and one for water temp. I did the EGT pre-turbo and used the stock location for the water temps. I mounted the gauges in the radio location. I think I may move these to the A-pillar eventually because they'd be easier to watch out of the corner of my eye. My EGT's are getting too high too quickly for my tastes so I think I am going to either do an intercooler or a water-methane injection system. I'm weighing my options for those right now. My EGT's spike too quickly above 1250 degrees F and too often for my tastes when on the highway.
If there's anything specific yall want to see a pic of, just ask.
FJBen
SILVER Star
Yes, lots of pictures of the engine bay and that setup.
How are you liking that 1HDT over the 1HZ?
Let me know if you dont want that altimeter pod
- Thread starter
- #34
- Thread starter
- #35
- Thread starter
- #36
@FJBen I don’t have an altimeter pod.
1HZ vs 1HDT: the 1HDT kicks the 1HZs butt in every aspect. the powerband is wider and the HP increase really makes driving enjoyable now.
In the engine bay pics you can see that I havent permanently mounted some things like gauge wires and the fuel line from hand pump to IP.
I removed my headlight washer reservoir to save space.
My factory AC setup transferred directly to the 1HDT.
I need to mention that I had a 24v system and the new one was 12v. I moved My 24v alternator, fuel shut off solenoid and starter to the 1HDT.
1HZ vs 1HDT: the 1HDT kicks the 1HZs butt in every aspect. the powerband is wider and the HP increase really makes driving enjoyable now.
In the engine bay pics you can see that I havent permanently mounted some things like gauge wires and the fuel line from hand pump to IP.
I removed my headlight washer reservoir to save space.
My factory AC setup transferred directly to the 1HDT.
I need to mention that I had a 24v system and the new one was 12v. I moved My 24v alternator, fuel shut off solenoid and starter to the 1HDT.
FJBen
SILVER Star
That looks great in there. So much room under the hood compared to a 13BT.
- Thread starter
- #38
I have An upcoming 6 night overlanding trip planned so I finally mounted my James Baroud Evo onto the FRP top.
I used 4 Thule artificial rain gutters. I mounted Them by making a shoulder for each bolt out of aluminum tube. This would create a limit for the bolt to contract thus (hopefully) keeping the 2 layers of the FRP from being crushed. I used The provided backer plate on the inside. I used Marine sealant 5200 for the bolt holes. I used Smittybilt rain gutter mounts for this project but at6” y’all, they were still short. I used Some 1”x2” hard rubber bushings to create a 1” spacer. That gave me the lift I needed To clear the cross bars over the top. It doubles as additional cushion. I used 1x2 aluminum tubing for the crossbars. I think They’re 1/8th” thick.
I took A 10 mile drive tonight and there didn’t appear to be any issue as of now. I’ll keep my eyes on them. I wanted To get it mounted soon so I could Test it prior to the trip.
I used 4 Thule artificial rain gutters. I mounted Them by making a shoulder for each bolt out of aluminum tube. This would create a limit for the bolt to contract thus (hopefully) keeping the 2 layers of the FRP from being crushed. I used The provided backer plate on the inside. I used Marine sealant 5200 for the bolt holes. I used Smittybilt rain gutter mounts for this project but at6” y’all, they were still short. I used Some 1”x2” hard rubber bushings to create a 1” spacer. That gave me the lift I needed To clear the cross bars over the top. It doubles as additional cushion. I used 1x2 aluminum tubing for the crossbars. I think They’re 1/8th” thick.
I took A 10 mile drive tonight and there didn’t appear to be any issue as of now. I’ll keep my eyes on them. I wanted To get it mounted soon so I could Test it prior to the trip.
That one is about the perfect size of your roof! Looks great!!
- Thread starter
- #40
Thanks. That’s kind of been in my mind when I was Searching for one. Obviously the XL ones would be more comfortable and I have The room on my f250, but I couldn’t really swap it back and forth.
My roof measures ~85”x55” and the James Baroud is 75x55
My roof measures ~85”x55” and the James Baroud is 75x55
