A TX Build 2.0 (1990 HZJ73)

Joined
Sep 4, 2018
Messages
11
Location
Texas
I've had this rig a few months now (since May 2019) but with some recent issues, I wanted to start cataloging my build for myself. This is my 7th land cruiser I have owned since college. As you can see, I've been a ih8mud member since 2005. I had never considered a 70-series until I found myself needing to commute from DFW to Houston every week for work. I like unique vehicles and so when I saw a BJ71 with factory lockers for sale close by I couldn't pass it up. It was a spontaneous purchase and so after 9 months of driving it, I figured out what I did and did not like about it. The wants I had that the 71 lacked were wheelbase (I have a Marlin Crawler toybox to install) and interior cargo space. I wasn't looking for a new rig but saw a 1990 HZJ73 pop up on mud's classified section for a price that I could justify selling the 71 and buying the 73 for.

Pros:
Low miles 1HZ (~193,000 km)
Perfect frame, body rust was isolated to one quarter panel
Suspension seats(I just like them)
Rear Disc Brakes
Beefier front axle
Removable Top

Cons:
Completely stock
Paint had strong patina
Rust in the one body panel

In the first 2 weeks after purchase:
-I swapped the front and rear Cruiser Outfitters bumpers off my 71 onto the 73.
-Changed oil (Rotella)/filter (OEM)
-Upgraded suspension to OME heavy rear, medium fronts
-35x12.5x17" Nitto Mud Grapplers on 17" Method Beadlocks
-Painted the front fenders/hood/cowl/fender flares
-Removed rear seat to install my ARB fridge.
-Bought an Escape Gear dash cover from a mud member. (The pockets on this combined with my Dougs Tub make use of the front space for storage)
-LED cargo light
-Wired up 24v/12v step down converter for charging, CB, and amp.

About 6 weeks into the purchase, I bought a front axle with manual hubs from @joekatana so that I could do a manual hub conversion. I was already digging into the front axle to replace all the brakes so I upgraded the hubs then.

I was prepping for a July Colorado trip from the day I bought it.
-Installed a 5' firestik that I remove for daily driving
-Koito amber fog lights.
-Built a box to mount my ARB & slide onto.
-Installed e-tracks to front and rear of cargo space for tie down points.
-Bought a Yukon Zip locker & compressor for the rear 9.5" axle (not installed as of 8/12/2019). A friend/fabricator is a Yukon dealer and so I went that route.
 
Joined
Sep 4, 2018
Messages
11
Location
Texas
A few pics from the first day I stopped by to look at it at the importer's lot. Last, a pic when my brother (4runner) and I made a trip to pick it up. That's my BJ71 in front of it.

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Joined
Sep 4, 2018
Messages
11
Location
Texas
Installing the Nittos onto the beadlocks.
Front end painted, beadlocks/tire/lift installed and freshly washed. I also painted the aluminum steps.
Also, the front springs are flipped around to fit the larger tires. Does not rub at turn.

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Joined
Sep 4, 2018
Messages
11
Location
Texas
The slide is actually Dometic, for a larger fridge than my 50 qt. The box was quickly put together for function, nothing nice about it. I'll be redoing it. The pic of it is before I even finished it but it's the only one I have on my phone. I used the factory points plus e-track to mount turnbuckles to.
 
Joined
Sep 4, 2018
Messages
11
Location
Texas
Before the manual hub conversion, I got stuck in some light mud at my deer lease. I was p!ssed that I could get stuck in almost nothing. After I disassembled the electric hubs, I found that one may have been broken. And 3 days before I was supposed to go to Colorado, I found that 5 bolts had broken on one beadlock

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Joined
Sep 4, 2018
Messages
11
Location
Texas
Just some pics from the Texas to Colorado trip with my lab. The only thing that went wrong on the trip was the valve stem in a wheel broke near Pitkin, CO.

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Joined
Mar 31, 2005
Messages
405
Location
Vidor, TX DIXIE
This all leads me to this past Thursday, 2 weeks after getting back from CO. The engine overheated while heading to my deer lease. I'm fortunate it didn't happen on my trip to CO. I am ordering a new timing belt(was due for one anyways) and water pump. I also plan to remove the head to make sure no cracks occurred and to replace the gasket.
 
Joined
Mar 31, 2005
Messages
405
Location
Vidor, TX DIXIE
1PZ/1HZ powered 7x trucks: (1HD-T and FT engines share most of the below as well but the hoses will be different since those engines did not come in 7x vehicles that I know of).

Water pump: 16100-19235 (comes with metal gasket)
Upper radiator hose: 16571-17020
Lower radiator hose: 16571-17020
Thermostat: 90916-03089
Thermostat gasket: 16346-66020 (same as a 1FZ-FE)

The drive belts come as a set which is pretty cool, just like the 1FZ-FE: 90916-02452

AC belt will be different based on market but is generally 99332-10860-83

Timing belt will be different based on the tensioning system-- whether it has an integrated tensioner/idler pulley with spring or whether it has an idler with a separate hydraulic tensioner. The split is in the mid-1990's on different engine iterations.

Early timing belt: 13568-19065
Later timing belt: 13568-19195

Tensioner/idler: 13505-17011
Tensioner: 13540-17010
Idler: 13505-17020

Front timing cover seals: should be changed out when doing water pump/timing belt jobber:

90311-58007
90311-58006

Valve cover gasket: 11213-17010

credit to Onur for the above post. I'm just copy/pasting for reference.
 
Joined
Aug 16, 2015
Messages
1,417
Location
78229
The radiator hoses for a 1PZ are not the same as 1HZ.
( Some say the 1HZ hoses work, but I haven't personally tried using them on the 1PZ.). Would love to know if anyone tried this.

1PZ hoses are as follows:

Upper radiator hose: 16571-17030 (and is discontinued)
Lower radiator hose: 16572-17030 (still available)
 
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