A real steering upgrade: Y-link & 1-ton TREs

[jcardona1]

Would this be a good option for someone that can't keep there rear tie rod straight? Sick of bending tie rods. Getting expensive!

I would say yes, definitely. I think it's a no-brainer upgrade if you wheel. By moving it up front you raise it a tiny bit vs the back and don't have the interference issues with the controls arms so you can run much thicker tubing.

Take it a step further and run Slee high-steer arms like Ammo did. I'll be doing this when I go to the 4WU 3 link, run a double-sheer setup with heims. Or if you want to go all out, then Hellfire knuckes.

 

[Wrench]

Thanks guys. I got a decision to make.

 

[AMMO]

Selling my brand new Y link kit, all fabled and ready to bolt on: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/80-series-rough-stuff-y-link-steering.823658/

 

[SNLC]

Hey Jose,

You used the inserts supplied by RS right? I have the same kit and it came with the same inserts. I will be installing my kit next week, just waiting on a reamer. The reason I ask about the inserts is I was checking with some calipers and man to use them requires a lot of meat to be removed from the steering/knuckle arm. I see roughly 5mm needing to be removed to fit the GM tre in the arm if you just ream the hole. But for the inserts I am seeing over 10mm needs to be removed. That is a lot! It leaves only about 3/8" (at most) of meat in the arm around the hole. Did you encounter this? If so not concerned?

I decided to just not use the inserts and ream the hole out with the right reamer. This leaves the most meat around the hole in the arm and seems like the strongest solution to me. Pretty concerned there is not enough left when using the inserts. I will take some pics with the calipers tonight so you guys can see for yourself.

Cheers

 

[AMMO]

Hey Jose,

You used the inserts supplied by RS right? I have the same kit and it came with the same inserts. I will be installing my kit next week, just waiting on a reamer. The reason I ask about the inserts is I was checking with some calipers and man to use them requires a lot of meat to be removed from the steering/knuckle arm. I see roughly 5mm needing to be removed to fit the GM tre in the arm if you just ream the hole. But for the inserts I am seeing over 10mm needs to be removed. That is a lot! It leaves only about 3/8" (at most) of meat in the arm around the hole. Did you encounter this? If so not concerned?

I decided to just not use the inserts and ream the hole out with the right reamer. This leaves the most meat around the hole in the arm and seems like the strongest solution to me. Pretty concerned there is not enough left when using the inserts. I will take some pics with the calipers tonight so you guys can see for yourself.

Cheers

Yup that sounds about right, I think you need to drill out to 5/8's to use the inserts...

-A

 

[SNLC]

Yup that sounds about right, I think you need to drill out to 5/8's to use the inserts...

-A

Well, fark that. Way to much meat gone around the hole for me.

Cheers

 

[Finnyfam60]

I'm running the labs steering links kit with 1 ton ends and Luke just reamed all the arms. Easy peasy. He reamed jose's too, iirc.

 

[AMMO]

I'm running the labs steering links kit with 1 ton ends and Luke just reamed all the arms. Easy peasy. He reamed jose's too, iirc.

I think Jose is reamed on the pitman, sleeves everywhere else in the lowers..

Not an issue on the lowers.

 

[jcardona1]

Well, fark that. Way to much meat gone around the hole for me.

Cheers

I think Jose is reamed on the pitman, sleeves everywhere else in the lowers..

Not an issue on the lowers.

Yeah that's right. Pitman is reamed, arms have inserts. I don't see it being an issue. I had originally planned on reaming the arms but Luke went too far on the taper so I had him drill through to use the inserts.

 

[Finnyfam60]

Yeah, I think mine are too far also, now that you mention it... Symptom: the tre castle nut tightens up farther than expected with quite a few threads sticking out, tre "cover" (rubber/plastic cap that holds the grease in) seems a bit squished... What will the outcome/detriment be? Go thru grease faster possibly allowing for more wear..??

 

[UnderDawg]

Yeah, I think mine are too far also, now that you mention it... Symptom: the tre castle nut tightens up farther than expected with quite a few threads sticking out, tre "cover" (rubber/plastic cap that holds the grease in) seems a bit squished... What will the outcome/detriment be? Go thru grease faster possibly allowing for more wear..??

Your over thinking that with the grease and what not. Just hit it everytime you do an oil change. I need to get back on the ball with this mod. I have some of the parts just need to get the rest. Its definitely a solid solution. Great mod.

 

[Finnyfam60]

Your over thinking that with the grease and what not. Just hit it everytime you do an oil change. I need to get back on the ball with this mod. I have some of the parts just need to get the rest. Its definitely a solid solution. Great mod.

Thats what I was kind of thinking... GTG!

 

[AMMO]

Still have my kit up for sale... FYI.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/80-series-rough-stuff-y-link-steering.823658/

 

[jcardona1]

Yeah, I think mine are too far also, now that you mention it... Symptom: the tre castle nut tightens up farther than expected with quite a few threads sticking out, tre "cover" (rubber/plastic cap that holds the grease in) seems a bit squished... What will the outcome/detriment be? Go thru grease faster possibly allowing for more wear..??

Sounds like it might be a bit too deep, but unless the TRE is spinning inside the hole when your turn the wheel I wouldn't worry about it. But the fix would be to drill it out and use the tapered inserts.

 

[Finnyfam60]

Roger dodger

 

[SNLC]

Well it is a concern for me and here is why....

GM tree at its thickest

Now the insert

and how much has to be removed to fit the insert

I think i will stick with just reaming the hole out. And not hard to get the right depth, just mark the reamer.

Cheers

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Do you use a drill press or by hand?

 

[SNLC]

I thought I would report back in this thread a bit since I am now nearly done with my front end and y-link.


Not sure why Jose didn't encounter these issues, perhaps because he doesn't have the caster I now have. FYI, I just cut & turned my knuckles and set caster at 4.5*.

full lock to RHS, probs

full lock to LHS

As you can see that is no go. I just purchased the offset GM tres from RS along with their y-link adapter for the offset tres. I also bought their "cure" fitting. That will move the tre 3/4" forward. In addition to this I am going to move the panhard 2" up on the axle. This should also help greatly with clearance issues as well as net other good results.

One last thing, the RHS tre, the one with the built in y-link connection, is not the same depth on the tre as the others. I neglected to check this while reaming. Instead I used the LHS tre to check my ream as I was reaming. Well come to find out the RHS tre is not as deep like I say which means if you ream to suit the LHS tre on the RHS you will be to deep making the tre sit low in the arm. I do believe the offset tres are not like this, meaning the same left to right so that should take care of me. But if doing the conversion, pay close attention to this or you will end up wit the RHS being to deep.

Oh last bit, I ordered an 8" throw steering damper because Jose earlier in the thread said 8" will work. See his post about measurements. Looks to me like an 8" will work but maybe just barely. Ideally it looks like an 8.5" throw would be best. I am not 100% sure yet but from my measurements so far it looks like throw is maybe 8.25". The OME damper seems to be a 9" throw or a bit over 9". If buying a damper again, I would look for an 8.5" or 9". Fox makes an 8.5" (for a Dodge) and King makes a 9".

If it matters to anybody, I cut my dom for the tre at 34" and for the drag ink at 29".

Cheers

 

[jcardona1]

I thought I would report back in this thread a bit since I am now nearly done with my front end and y-link.


Not sure why Jose didn't encounter these issues, perhaps because he doesn't have the caster I now have. FYI, I just cut & turned my knuckles and set caster at 4.5*.

Interesting. I wonder if it's the caster and the panhard that affects it. I'm on just caster bushings and I'm using an Ironman adjustable panhard. As I mentioned in this post here, it just barely contacts at full turn:

You may or may not loose a tiny bit of steering radius. Everybody's setup is different so this may be more of an issue for some and less for others. On mine, the tie rod just barely contacts the panhard and full turn to the passenger side. I've circled where it contacts in this photo. Keep in mind I'm running an Ironman adjustable panhard which I think is a bit thicker than stock.

 

[SNLC]

Interesting. I wonder if it's the caster and the panhard that affects it. I'm on just caster bushings and I'm using an Ironman adjustable panhard. As I mentioned in this post here, it just barely contacts at full turn:

Ya it has got to be caster which makes sense since that rolls the axle one way or the other. I am guessing you are at about 0* with just bushings in there. Maybe 1* forward.

Just trying to put the info out there for the next guy who may do this conversion.

Cheers