A quick hello and your valued opinions on this 78 FJ40

[SAB]

The key is being wise during the selection process, ensuring against premature expiration of either or both.

That's damn near quotable.


So here is the next lady I've found. 1970, 189k. 3 on the floor. All original interior (in quite good shape). The big wheels will be swapped back to the original wheels. Asking 12K. Repainted at one point in it's life. Second owner. I'm going to check it out in the morning. It's hard to judge the price point given the mileage...If the frame isn't "de-laminating from rust" and she feels good on the test drive...what would be a fair negotiating starting point?

 

[brian]

you have the year wrong. that has all the features of the 77-78s....and should be a 4 spd based on body features. also will only have a 5 digit odometer.
red flags include, the shady brake line on the rear axle and the replacement quarter panels having the wrong wheel well profile. the exhaust routing looks questionable as well.

 

[SAB]

I wonder if he has the year wrong. Good eye on the wheel-well profile. I owe you a beer for that save. I may have to go to the back of the class and do more homework.

Here is the dash....

 

[edwjmcgrath]

You're looking at 40 year old highly desirable/collectible trucks for $10k.
Whatever you find, it's not going to be perfect or completely original or never been repainted or have 50k original miles.
It's a matter of making sure you know what has been done to it, whether you can live with how it has been done, and how much more you're going to have to put into it to make it reliable. By far the biggest future cost item is rust. If you can determine that it's fairly rust free and the repairs that have been done (and there will be some) were done well, then that's a great start. Next is a solid engine. I'd make sure to check the compression. Everything else is easily fixable.

 

[SouthBostonFJ40]

The incorrect wheel well profile can be spotted a mile away and once you start looking at a lot of trucks you'll get used to looking for the familiar lines.

 

[cbmontgo]

That is either a 1977 or 1978 given the tubular spare tire carrier, side view mirrors, dash seat belt/EGR lights, and vent windows on the rear hard top sides coupled with (what appears to be) a non-square besel.

The rear quarters being cut, non-OEM paint color, and brake line oddities would concern me. $ 6,000 truck on paper.

 

[cbmontgo]

You'll be glad you got all of this painful advice when you finally find "the one."

 

[SAB]

Well I just called the seller to confirm the year, and it is in fact a 1979. His accent is a bit heavy, so I either heard incorrectly or it was lost in translation along the way. Sorry for the misinformation.

You're looking at 40 year old highly desirable/collectible trucks for $10k.
Whatever you find, it's not going to be perfect or completely original or never been repainted or have 50k original miles.
It's a matter of making sure you know what has been done to it, whether you can live with how it has been done, and how much more you're going to have to put into it to make it reliable. By far the biggest future cost item is rust. If you can determine that it's fairly rust free and the repairs that have been done (and there will be some) were done well, then that's a great start. Next is a solid engine. I'd make sure to check the compression. Everything else is easily fixable.

Quite true. I'm not expecting perfection by a long shot given the price point I'm in. I'm realizing I need to do some more reading before I can confidently find a good foundation to start with. I hope I'm not bugging you guys with the questions, but it's an amazingly cool way to learn when people are willing to give input that keeps things on course. Thanks for the insight!

The incorrect wheel well profile can be spotted a mile away and once you start looking at a lot of trucks you'll get used to looking for the familiar lines.

So it would be safe to say that someone who did a questionable job on the quarters likely didn't really know what they were doing?

That is either a 1977 or 1978 given the tubular spare tire carrier, side view mirrors, dash seat belt/EGR lights, and vent windows on the rear hard top sides coupled with (what appears to be) a non-square besel.

The rear quarters being cut, non-OEM paint color, and brake line oddities would concern me. $ 6,000 truck on paper.

You'll be glad you got all of this painful advice when you finally find "the one."

I have a notepad on my desk that I'm writing all of this down in. I truly do appreciate the help I'm getting here.

 

[cbmontgo]

Well I just called the seller to confirm the year, and it is in fact a 1979. His accent is a bit heavy, so I either heard incorrectly or it was lost in translation along the way. Sorry for the misinformation.

1979 is possible if that front grille besel is square (can't tell) combined with the other noted items.

Troll Phoenix Craigslist for 8-12 weeks until you find your dream truck. $12k will buy quality in The West.

 

[allan man]

Bezel is square...

 

[SouthBostonFJ40]

So it would be safe to say that someone who did a questionable job on the quarters likely didn't really know what they were doing?

Not necessarily questionable, they probably just didn't pay enough attention to detail to recreate the curve of the wheel well opening. It also meant that there was enough rust that the entire rear quarter had to be replaced. Rust of that scale has probably set into other areas of the body/frame.

 

[SAB]

Well my proverbial cherry has been popped. I drove my first 40 today. In a word. Awesome. Now I get it.
I still can't get over how rock solid it felt.

Anyway. I took a good long look at the aforementioned 40 today and took a load of pictures. The tub has some rot through on the driver's side by the seat. Whoever painted it did a shyte job. That rear driver side fender well is actually folded in from the oversize tires. I put a magnet against it and looked all around, but I think it's the original quarters. I couldn't make out a seam on the inside or outside.

The interior is damn near mint. Everything works. She started the first try and the gear engagement felt smooth. 4wd worked seamlessly.

The underside has rust, but I'll leave the judgement up to the pro's here.

We have an agreement that he is holding her for me until Sunday. I wanted to get the general consensus on here before pulling the trigger. I've not made an official offer yet, so based on these pictures:

1. What would be fair market value?
2. Is it even worth purchasing in this condition?

Thanks! - Seth

 

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