Builds A few mods from 7-25-06 (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

2-2-2007, Magnaflow Muffler

This is a mod I have been wanting to do for awhile, but have put it off.
Why?
The stock FJ Cruisers exhaust sounds pretty darn good, but lacking that extra loudness and rumble I enjoyed with the Magnaflow muffler my '91 4Runner had on it.

No need to replace the whole exhaust system, as the FJ already has nice 2.5" tubing in place from the muffler back.

I had a local shop test fit the Magnaflow 11226 which has a 14" body, and 20" overall length achieved with 2 x 3" ends.
The fit was great, and it tucks up higher than the stock muffler did.

I tooled around this morning, and it seems I have a bit more low end torque, but the best part is it just sounds so darn cool.
If you do not like anything louder than the stock FJ Cruiser muffler, then this can is not for you!

It is not overly loud like some, just a nice low tone and some grumble/rumble to it.

Whether gently pulling away from a stoplight or goosing it, it lets you know that it is there.

Having really liked the Magnaflow I had on my '91 4Runner, this is a warm welcome to my new rig, I really dig the sound of it.

Here is the stock Toyota muffler.

26.jpg


Here is the Magnaflow 11226 muffler.

26a.jpg


Here is a 3.83 MB video I compiled from three shorter ones I shot this morning.
The videos do not do it justice, it sounds so much better in person.
Click here for the vid.

I will get some better ones next time I go off roading, and in 4low, it will sound killer driving up a hill.

If you want a little more loudness from your FJ Cruiser, I do not think this muffler will disappoint.
 
i am in the 80s section all the time but this is a great thread! lets see it wheeled? camped?
 
Thanks.
Yes, the 11226.
Question, was looking at my stock muffler as I kept it, it looks like it has two tubes on it which hoses connected too.

Did yours?

The shop did not rehook up any hoses to the Magnaflow, as it does not have any provisions on it for hoses.

Love the OME lift.
Handles way better in turns/off ramps on the freeway.

Stiffer, but a rig should not be plush ;)

No dislikes at all on the OME lift.
Not the most expensive lift out there, but I did not need one of those adjustable coilover jobbers, as I knew what I was going to have on my front and back ends, so the OME is perfect.
 
3-31-2007, Pioneer AVIC D3 DVD/Navigation headunit

So new Pioneer does not even have any info on their website yet.
Cartoys where I bought and had it installed has some good into on it.
http://www.cartoys.com/Default.cfm/p/AVICD3_InDash_Navigation_Receiver/
Click the full description link to get tons of info on it.

This will work out great later when I decide to add back in old school Rockford Fosgate 500a2 amp.
Will have to look into a good subwoofer setup, as there is not enough room back there for my JL Audio 15" W6.
Darn!

Here are a few pictures of the unit.

The backup camera, mounted above the recovery shackle.



A few shots of the iPod interface on the touch screen.
You control every single function of the radio, iPod, navigation, settings, by the touch screen.
You only have to turn the volume control know and two other buttons to get the main menu or to show the map of where you are when you are driving.



Here is the radio station that shows on the screen



Here is the navigation map that shows on the screen



Here is a 5.5 or so MB WMV file showing the D3 in action.

This is my first navigation headunit I have owned, and I am very impressed with it.
The store manager came out personally to give me a quick run down on how to operate it, although I had been reading the manual there for two hours while it was being installed.

I punched in my home address and the unit instructed me exactly how to get home, even when I deviated from the route to try and mess it up.

Eventually I will have the stock speakers replaced, and then my sub amp and a dual 10" subwoofer setup installed in the back.

I really like this unit, and if you are looking for a good DVD navigation headunit, go demo one out at a car audio store.
I think you will be impressed with it.

You can also play videos off of your iPod on the screen too.

The backup camera is very impressive, and the way he mounted the camera I have a nice wide angle field of view.
You can see that in the video I made.
 
Drrrrooollll... Drooolll.... ;)...
 
Here are a few more Bandi I took Sunday I think.

You can display any picture on your screen during the radio, CD, or iPod, or when the unit is turned off.
You downsize the screen and it still shows the name and artist of what is playing.

27a1.jpg


Here it is with the iPod screen up, and the iPod wheel is in the same place as my spare tire.

27a2.jpg
 
Hey Corey,

Absolutely awesome rig man. One quick suggestion: I originally mounted my backup camera there too, but after it loosened up from debris getting in behind it, I remounted it on top of the receiver. It should just barely fit and the view is not compromised at all.
Again, congrats man. Great looking rig. I love that speaker box! Did they custom make and paint it for you? What did it run you if you don't mind me asking. My sub box it taking up way too much room in my TRD!
 
Hi Brick, thanks.

That pic of the box is not mine, I put it in the thread to show what I will more than likely end up getting later.

They are on the pricey side, but very nice construction from what I have heard of those who have bought one.

I have my small camera screwed to the bumper now, it came loose within the first few days with the sticky tape.
Edit:
Here are a few links to those making these type of boxes.
http://www.fjcruiseraudio.com/

http://www.wickedcas.com/
 
Last edited:
Great site

I love it and I found some add on parts that I've been looking four.Keep up the good work.
 
ARB fridge installed 4-21-2007

Thanks Jason, here is my patest from today.

I have been wanting a fridge for quite some time.
I hate taking coolers camping and having the ice melt.

I have a nice 3 way fridge (12v, 110v, and propane) that I have sued when camping, but it would suck the battery dry in a few hours.

The ARB fridge (Norcold and Engel brands are the exact same thing) use a swing arm motor design and are very energy efficient.

More info on the ARB can be seen on their website.

I ordered an Engel Slide Loc which screws to a surface with 4 to 6 screws, depending on how many you want to use.
I went for 4 this time, but may add the other 2 for extra insurance.

Here is the Engel Slide Loc.

It called for drilling 1/8" holes, piece of cake in the wood top of my cargobox.
Once the first hole was drilled, I put a screw in to keep the Slide Loc was shifting on me.

The Slide Loc is all the way to the right side of the cargobox, which leaves me plenty of room to slide the fridge in around the Powertank, no problems at all.

There is only 1 lock button on the Slide Loc to worry about when you want to disengage the 4 feet on the fridge.
The package comes with 4 new feet.
You simply unbolt the 4 stock feet and put on the 4 new ones that are made to slide into the Slide Loc unit.

I can not lift up the lid all the way, this is a big fridge, 43 qt, but I did not want anything smaller.
I plan on using this for a long time, and want it to be able to hold a weeks worth of food for camping.

This is also a freezer, so when we go on runs this summer, the crowd is going to get treated to some ice cream bars :D

Here are some pics of the installation.
The first 2 show the Engel Slide Loc, the last 2 show the fridge mounted to the Slide Loc.
The release button is at the back left side, very easy to reach with the fridge mounted.

28.jpg
28a.jpg


28b.jpg
28c.jpg


I still need full time 12vpower to run the fridge.
This will come with my next mod, a Blue Sea aux fusebox, and two 12v outlets that will be mounted above the 110v outlet like KD7NAC_07FJ did in his rig.

Hopefully next weekend that project can get underway.
Member KD7NAC_07FJ will be lending me his expertise on that project, he is a wizard at wiring projects, and his rig shows it.
_____________________
Forgot to mention, I bought this through www.trdparts4u.com and since I work about 2 blocks from ARB, I just stopped by after work a few weeks back and will called it there.
 
Last edited:
Yeah, if my cargobox was only about 4" deeper, I could have turned it the other way, and I would have bought the slide in a heartbeat.

But this cargobox was designed back in the summer of 2001 for my '91 4Runner.
 
rfj, you talked me into getting a new cargobox designed before to long.

Coming up this weekend Wayne and I will be working on adding the Blue Sea fusebox and 2x12v outlets in the back to power the fridge.

Also after much thinking, I am going to have a carpenter here at work who is on my crew build me a new cargobox.
I really dig mine, but I want to turn the fridge 90 degrees, and the present Engel tray will not work with the cargobox as it is not deep enough, that is why it is mounted sideways.

He runs a cabinet shop on the side, so it will be killer.
It will not be any taller, just deeper and a little wider to take advantage of the FJs layout since it was built for my '91 4Runner.
I will then mount the other type of Engel tray, the one that lets you slide the fridge out.
This way I will be able to open up the lid all the way.
http://www.engel4u.com/tray_for_the_mt45.html

slide_tray.gif
 
Nice, post up the new box design,

I currently use pelican cases next to the fridge. I have a dual battery with extra two 12v plugs next to the shifter and the other two in the rear just above the stock plug.
 
That is where we are putting the two in the rear, where the yellow sticker is on the stock 110v plate.

It will be awhile before I get the new cargobox though, but in the long run it will make accessing the fridge a lot better.
 
Blue Sea aux. fusebosx & twin 12v outlets installed 4-28-2007

Thanks to member KD7NAC_07FJ (Wayne) for coming down to my home today to help on this project.

Take one Blue Sea 6 gang fusebox
http://www.northeastmarineelectronics.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2750

blue_sea.jpg


Tie it in with 6 gauge wire from the battery to it, and run 18-Gauge Red & Black 2-Conductor back to twin 12v outlets
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062272&cp

12v_outlets.jpg


and you have a recipe for adding several circuits easily from inside the right front kick panel.

I will utilize one of the 12v outlets in the back to power my new ARB fridge.

All connections are soldered and have shrink tubing added to them.
Wayne used a small butane torch to solder the connections with.
A lot of perfection went into this.
I would have crimped the ends and called it a day, but Wayne is very experienced at this and went all the way with the solder and shrink tubing, very professional.

The first 2 pictures show a few things torn apart.
You have to remove the floors threshold by grasping it and pulling straight up.
Once removed you can easily take off the passenger side kick panel with a plastic thumbscrew which is all the way forward.

1.jpg
2.jpg


Wayne ended up taking the battery out to gain better access to the wires presently on the battery.
We moved the CB power wire off of the battery and it is wired inside the cabin now with the new fusebox.
You can see in picture 4 a slit inside the read circle which was already there from running the CB wire to the battery.

3.jpg
4.jpg


Pictures 5 and 6 show the panel you remove by inserting a small flat tipped screw driver and prying it outwards.
Picture 5 still has the yellow sticker on it with info on the 10v converter outlet.
You remove the yellow tape and use a hole saw sized at 1 3/32" and drill 2 holes.
You can also use a knife and make a small incision since the 12v plug has a "key" on it to hold it tight so it will not spin on you.

Picture 6 shows the twin 12v outlets in place.

5.jpg
6.jpg


Picture 7 shows the new Blue Sea box mounted in place with white zipties (no need to screw this unit down) and the 18-Gauge Red & Black 2-Conductor wire attached to it.
This fusebox also utilizes a ground, so you can attach the black ground wire to one of the three screws on top, and attach the red power wire to one of the three screws below.
This box is much nicer than the cheap one I used on the 4Runner long ago.
It did not have a grounding circuit.

Picture 8 shows the 6 gauge wire inside of the black wire loom going down to the slit in the firewall.
It is all tired in with zipties to the factory harnesses running along the firewall.

7.jpg
8.jpg


And finally picture 9 shows the twin 12v outlets in place.

9.jpg


After the battery was put back in place and all the wires were reattached, I carried out the ARB fridge and set it on the ground and plugged it into one of the 12v outlets.

I reached down and rotated the switch and the green light came on the fridge and the sweet sound of a fridge coming to life was like music to my ears :D

From what I have read, the fridge only draws a maximum of 2.7 amps when set to the highest setting to freeze.
When set to just keep food at the safe temperature to prevent spoilage, it draws much less and can go for 3 days without wearing your battery down.

This project turned out great.
I am pretty decent at wiring projects, and Wayne is much more experienced at what we tackled today.

It turned out really good.
I think I will have to hit him up again when it comes time to do the dual battery setup.
He has that setup and it looks fantastic.

Frozen ice cream bars will be on the menu for this summers runs!
I look forward to getting lots of use from the new ARB fridge and the newly added fusebox and twin 12v outlets back there.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom