A few days old and already issues

[Lester did that]

After spending much time and money taking my new (2008) LC200 to mechanics and checking it out before the purchase, a week after I brought it home I get the check engine light. I turned in in the morning and got the check engine and 4LO flashing. The car would not go passed 60kph and now I'm worried.

I thought it was going to be something with the 4x4 mechanism, which I tested before the purchase, but it turned out to be code P2588 which says: The Engine Control Module (ECM) monitors the Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor 'B' Circuit signal.

The guy at the shop started to trace the wires to and from the turbos because from what we read for most people, it was a bad contact in the harness or even a bad contact at the plugs. We did not find any exposed wires but the connections were unplugged and replugged and the problem went away. I'm still nervous that this is going to come back because there is an underlying problem but I'm also hoping that doing all that we did took care of the problem and there is nothing else.

Not an Aussie but South African. LOL. Still south of the equator. Did you post earlier with a little smoke coming from the dip stick and oil cap? This might be all the same thing?

First check for a short in the TBCPS Sensor in the ground wire.

Second check for a short in power circuit.

80% you have a short somewhere with the wires. 15% its the TBCPS Sensor. 5% its the PCM.

Are all of the boots seated correctly? Your blowing them out with a little compressed air and inspecting them visually for debris. You are using a silicone spray on the electrical connections? They should pop on with very little physical resistance. A "pop". Also check the wires for ANY little knicks or dry rot. With a turbo charged diesel this is common not only with LC's. The LC just goes into limp mode and other brands the check engine light comes on for the most part.

Whats the history of the vehicle? Where did it live before you picked it up?

 

[David Ruiz]

Not an Aussie but South African. LOL. Still south of the equator. Did you post earlier with a little smoke coming from the dip stick and oil cap? This might be all the same thing?

First check for a short in the TBCPS Sensor in the ground wire.

Second check for a short in power circuit.

80% you have a short somewhere with the wires. 15% its the TBCPS Sensor. 5% its the PCM.

Are all of the boots seated correctly? Your blowing them out with a little compressed air and inspecting them visually for debris. You are using a silicone spray on the electrical connections? They should pop on with very little physical resistance. A "pop". Also check the wires for ANY little knicks or dry rot. With a turbo charged diesel this is common not only with LC's. The LC just goes into limp mode and other brands the check engine light comes on for the most part.

Whats the history of the vehicle? Where did it live before you picked it up?

Hi, I appreciate your response and I don't mind at all that you are from South Africa. In fact, one of my best friends is from Durban (last name Fouche).

I will check for that today or tomorrow morning because my friend is taking a long time to come with his Voltmeter. I'm buying one this weekend but for now, I will use his. Yes, I'm the one who posted about a little smoke but after a compression test that turned out to be okay, I was confident it was okay to purchase until this. The first owner sold it to a little car dealership who sold it to me. The first owner lived in Northern Nicaragua in a province called Chontales (a cattle-raising city town). It had 177k kilometers when I bought it and it looks very well taken care of.

I took apart the front to change the headlights because they had some aftermarket ones that were awful and the electrician did a pretty bad job with the electrical wires there because they had LEDs on. A short is making more sense now because the Turbo Drivers and hardness are just behind the headlights. I have not disconnected anything yet but will go find a silicone spray for the connections.

Quick question, the code was cleared yesterday so I could drive to take the kids to school, without the code, do I clean stuff up and look for the short and hope that the code does not come back, or is there a way to force the computer to display the code? I used to work on converting Vanagons from gasoline to diesel in the USA so all it took was a few wires and no ECU. This stuff is newish to me but I'm learning.

I'm feeling much better about this because for a moment I thought it was going to be a problem with the turbos and that maybe I would have to buy them. I called to inquire and there is only one available in Guatemala.

Thank you for your help and input, I hope to get to the bottom of this.

 

[linuxgod]

Unfortunately I dont have a part number but I do have another question, does it tell you anything about what the problem could be if after the reset of the code it takes some time to come bac on. I'm not sure if it's time or the amount of kilometers driven.

I'm waitng for the sun to go down to work on the car and I'm hoping that it's just a hardness issue because getting parts here is so so difficult.

Thanks again.

Probably not.

I don't have familiarity with the 4.5TD engine (nor probably 90% of the folks on this forum as most are in the US where that's not available). But many codes take a bit of drive time before they will appear - either requiring the engine to warm up first, or a few start/stop cycles, before they "test"

 

[bloc]

Correct. Toyota or whoever develops the ECU can assign different importance to different types of codes and make them where they only trigger a CEL and/or limp mode after a certain number of starts, or immediately, or whatever they think is necessary. Same for the problem being resolved.. depending on how important they thought it was it might clear by itself or need a code reader.

 

[David Ruiz]

This morning I worked on tracing and checking the wiring harness again and when I got to the point of testing using the multimeter I just could not get to the turbos to disconnect the VANE Position Sensor before I had to put it back together to pick up our kids from school. Everything looked good and did not see any issues with the harness in terms of cuts or rubbing.

Just want to make sure, I'm measuring resistance from the connector that plugs into the VANE Position Sensor to the connector under the fender, correct?

Thank you,

DAvid

 

[David Ruiz]

Guys, I ran the resistance tests and everything came back good. I disconnected all the connections on the turbos and the harness under the fender, cleaned them, and reconnected everything. I checked for cuts, shorts and did not see anything so I put it all back together. Before all of this, I was getting the check engine light back on after a couple of kilometers but I have driven about 800 now and no check engine light.

I'm hoping that whatever I did took care of the problem and that it does not ever come back. I wanted to thank everyone who helped me through this because without your help I would have been in big trouble here. I learned a whole lot and hope to contribute whenever I can.

David