A few days old and already issues

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Joined
Apr 3, 2017
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8
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55
Location
Nicaragua
After spending much time and money taking my new (2008) LC200 to mechanics and checking it out before the purchase, a week after I brought it home I get the check engine light. I turned in in the morning and got the check engine and 4LO flashing. The car would not go passed 60kph and now I'm worried.

I thought it was going to be something with the 4x4 mechanism, which I tested before the purchase, but it turned out to be code P2588 which says: The Engine Control Module (ECM) monitors the Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor 'B' Circuit signal.

The guy at the shop started to trace the wires to and from the turbos because from what we read for most people, it was a bad contact in the harness or even a bad contact at the plugs. We did not find any exposed wires but the connections were unplugged and replugged and the problem went away. I'm still nervous that this is going to come back because there is an underlying problem but I'm also hoping that doing all that we did took care of the problem and there is nothing else.

I contacted the seller and of course, he said nothing was wrong with the car when he had it and even said he is willing to give me the money back. Well, I already sold my other car and I don't want to deal with having to look for another car.

I'm not sure how to proceed but wanted to share with you all. Any recommendations on what to look for next?

David
 
I would not panic. The computer throws that code when the voltage readings from the boost sensor are outside the window it wants to see. Could be a dirty connection which you guys probably fixed by unplugging/plugging things. Could be a bad boost sensor, or could be a bad wire which you checked. If it comes on again I'd consider changing the boost sensor if that's not a crazy price. I've never worked on turbo land cruiser, but it certainly is not worth backing out of the sale in my opinion.

it has been my experience that used cars test their new owners by breaking, just to see if we really love them. Since I bought my 200 a month or so ago I've gotten an airbag light, which I seem to have fixed by cleaning a connection, the rain sensor wipers quit, which I fixed by unplugging the rain sensor, and I learned my recirculate door is broken, (dealer maintained LC200, YAY!), which I intend to fix with glue and a hypodermic needle. All part of the used car experience. Bummer it put you in limp mode. What engine does your LC have in it?
 
After spending much time and money taking my new (2008) LC200 to mechanics and checking it out before the purchase, a week after I brought it home I get the check engine light. I turned in in the morning and got the check engine and 4LO flashing. The car would not go passed 60kph and now I'm worried.

I thought it was going to be something with the 4x4 mechanism, which I tested before the purchase, but it turned out to be code P2588 which says: The Engine Control Module (ECM) monitors the Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor 'B' Circuit signal.

The guy at the shop started to trace the wires to and from the turbos because from what we read for most people, it was a bad contact in the harness or even a bad contact at the plugs. We did not find any exposed wires but the connections were unplugged and replugged and the problem went away. I'm still nervous that this is going to come back because there is an underlying problem but I'm also hoping that doing all that we did took care of the problem and there is nothing else.

I contacted the seller and of course, he said nothing was wrong with the car when he had it and even said he is willing to give me the money back. Well, I already sold my other car and I don't want to deal with having to look for another car.

I'm not sure how to proceed but wanted to share with you all. Any recommendations on what to look for next?

David

That slow top speed is probably just limp mode kicking on, which is a precautionary function.

Is tbis a turbo diesel?

If so, you might want to post your question on one of the Australian forums for related help, since diesel 200’s here are extremely rare (I have tet to see one)

**If you have trouble finding one, PM me & I can admit you to the HUGE member-only Australian Facebook page for 200 owners. Nearly all diesels there except for LX, in case you have other diesel related q’s.
 
I would not panic. The computer throws that code when the voltage readings from the boost sensor are outside the window it wants to see. Could be a dirty connection which you guys probably fixed by unplugging/plugging things. Could be a bad boost sensor, or could be a bad wire which you checked. If it comes on again I'd consider changing the boost sensor if that's not a crazy price. I've never worked on turbo land cruiser, but it certainly is not worth backing out of the sale in my opinion.

it has been my experience that used cars test their new owners by breaking, just to see if we really love them. Since I bought my 200 a month or so ago I've gotten an airbag light, which I seem to have fixed by cleaning a connection, the rain sensor wipers quit, which I fixed by unplugging the rain sensor, and I learned my recirculate door is broken, (dealer maintained LC200, YAY!), which I intend to fix with glue and a hypodermic needle. All part of the used car experience. Bummer it put you in limp mode. What engine does your LC have in it?
Thank you for your email, I tried to say to myself that I'm worried but Monday night in bed I was freaking out because this is our only car and so many what-ifs came to mind. I feel better about it now, especially after your email, but I'm still a little worried.

While reading about this some people were pointing to Turbo Actuator. I was going to call the dealership today to ask about it so I'll about the boost sensor too just to have a price.

I will keep an eye on it and hope for the best.

Thanks again,

David
 
That slow top speed is probably just limp mode kicking on, which is a precautionary function.

Is tbis a turbo diesel?

If so, you might want to post your question on one of the Australian forums for related help, since diesel 200’s here are extremely rare (I have tet to see one)

**If you have trouble finding one, PM me & I can admit you to the HUGE member-only Australian Facebook page for 200 owners. Nearly all diesels there except for LX, in case you have other diesel related q’s.

Hi, thank you for your response. My car is a turbo diesel, would I find the Australian group on ih8mud?

I was worried about the "limp mode" but I figured and hoped it was just precautionary. After the code cleared the car feels great again.

David
 
Here's what the FSM says about code P2588

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continued...
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Today I spent a few hours with someone who was recommended trying to figure this out. I'm not a mechanic but understand a little bit so I took it to a mechanic here and I helped to translate and we could not get anywhere. It's difficult here because of the lack of good mechanics unless you drive a very long way to the capital.

I will try that this week or next.

David
 
Do you guys think that if we traced wires and everything looks good that may be a good start would be to replace the Turbo Boost Sensor? it's not that expensive and from what I've been reading it may be defective. What is your opinion?
 
Do you guys think that if we traced wires and everything looks good that may be a good start would be to replace the Turbo Boost Sensor? it's not that expensive and from what I've been reading it may be defective. What is your opinion?
Did you follow the testing procedure above with a multimeter? What was the result?
 
Did you follow the testing procedure above with a multimeter? What was the result?

Unfortunately I'm not really good at electrical stuff and where I live the only person that could help does not know who to troubleshoot this. I can get parts delivered here but to see any kind of good mechanic I need to travel far so I don't results yet.

I would like to do it myself because I'm mechanically inclined and I'm sure I could figure your instructions out but I need a little more information in order to do it myself.

Thank you,

David
 
Get a digital multimeter. They are about $30. Just set it to the Ohms resistance setting and follow the instructions above. All you're basically doing is closing a circuit between two pins in each of those steps. Record the value and continue. It looks like they all should read <1K or >10K. If you're not sure how to use one go on youtube and find a video that helps. My kids can work one so they're really pretty easy
 
Get a digital multimeter. They are about $30. Just set it to the Ohms resistance setting and follow the instructions above. All you're basically doing is closing a circuit between two pins in each of those steps. Record the value and continue. It looks like they all should read <1K or >10K. If you're not sure how to use one go on youtube and find a video that helps. My kids can work one so they're really pretty easy
When you put it that way it does not seem that difficult. Two questions: Is the Turbo Motor Driver the same as the Actuator? What is the Turbo Sub Assembly? Because I was afraid the turbo might be the issue I called the dealership here and they don't sell just the actuator, they sell the turbo with it only.
 
When you put it that way it does not seem that difficult. Two questions: Is the Turbo Motor Driver the same as the Actuator? What is the Turbo Sub Assembly? Because I was afraid the turbo might be the issue I called the dealership here and they don't sell just the actuator, they sell the turbo with it only.
Actuators are often calibrated to the turbo so it doesn’t surprise me they they sell them only as a complete assembly. The turbo motor driver sounds like it could be a separate control module to control the voltage to the turbo actuator.. but that is just a guess.

And yes, once you get some experience with a multimeter you’ll wonder why you haven’t been using them for years. Very very useful and simple tool.
 
Actuators are often calibrated to the turbo so it doesn’t surprise me they they sell them only as a complete assembly. The turbo motor driver sounds like it could be a separate control module to control the voltage to the turbo actuator.. but that is just a guess.

And yes, once you get some experience with a multimeter you’ll wonder why you haven’t been using them for years. Very very useful and simple tool.

Upon doing more research I now understand what the Motor Driver is but I'm still unclear as to what the Turbocharger Subassembly. Does it mean the complete turbo? I'm going to work on this today.

David
 
Upon doing more research I now understand what the Motor Driver is but I'm still unclear as to what the Turbocharger Subassembly. Does it mean the complete turbo? I'm going to work on this today.

David
That's my guess. If you have a part number I can look it up.
 
Unfortunately I dont have a part number but I do have another question, does it tell you anything about what the problem could be if after the reset of the code it takes some time to come bac on. I'm not sure if it's time or the amount of kilometers driven.

I'm waitng for the sun to go down to work on the car and I'm hoping that it's just a hardness issue because getting parts here is so so difficult.

Thanks again.
 

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