a different caster plate (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

had been wondering about this 60 deg. Are you saying that the clamp was preventing full "turning" of the wheels by hitting the arms? I better go check mine...

But then why do you say it would affect the caster measurements, which I assume is done with the wheels straight...?
 
I don't think there is an interfearance problem with a stock truck. As you rotate the axle by whatever means the tie rod moves closer to the arm. The FM says 60* because that is the best possible position for it.

And caster is calculated by taking 2 readings, one with the wheel at each lock position, not straight ahead.
 
gotcha.
Makes sense about needing to move the wheels since caster is "in the plane" of the wheels. Strangely I don't remember my guy turning the wheels at all...
 
e9999 said:
gotcha.
Makes sense about needing to move the wheels since caster is "in the plane" of the wheels. Strangely I don't remember my guy turning the wheels at all...


This wouldn't surprise me. Since Caster and Camber are not adjustable a lazy tech might just set the Toe and straighten the wheel and call it done, especially if there is no tire wearing issues.

On my first alignment I specified that I was only interestwed in the caster numbers and explained why and for the tech not to make any adjustments at this time.
 
Final Update

Since my original install I have been still working with my plates. A while back someone suggested an update so here it is.

First, I wasn't entirely happy with the out come from Slee's 4" springs and from Grrr posts that seem to point to a need to incorporate front pinion angle into the caster equation to help avoid this.

The Slee front springs basically raised the truck 3", if they were the same length as the 850Js I think they would be ideal.

After measuring my pinion angle it was slightly higher than what the specs call for and more caster correction would help this.

My caster was read at about 2.4* so at the present height there wasn't enough room in the caster range to really get the pinion angle to where it should be. SO I decided to install the 30mm spacers that MAF sells and then add an additional 2* of correction to get everything in sync.

Not wanting to pull the knuckles again to drill the plates I investigated using a Milwaukee right angle drill. As it turns out this was an acceptable idea provided I had the correct length drill bits to allow the drill to be put in place and still have enough throw to drill the plates. What was needed was a set of drills 5" long to drill the outside plates and another set 7.5" long to pass through the outside plate and then drill the inner one.

The last issue was what to do with the already drilled plates that was on the truck. I had originally thought that they would be a 1 time use item. As they say "necessity is the mother of invention" and I finally realised that I could mimic what I had already done. I found some 5/8" round stock at Home Depot and had plugs welded into the plates so that they protruded in the same way as the original plugs. Even though the holes in the axle bracket were in a figure 8, these plates had the same plug shape.

So I put in the spacers and drill another set of holes at 7* of correction. The results seem great. The pinion angle is near perfect and there is about 5/16" of clearance between the tie-rod and the front arm.

Attached is a couple of pictures showing this.

From taking some clearance measurements I think that 8* would be the upper limit that these plates can offer then some light grinding would be needed. So since I'm at the practical limits for my truck I'll be having the plates permanently welded in place onto the axle.

Lastly I have upgraded the hardware to frame bolts. These had a washer style head on the bolt as well as the nut and are very corrosion resistant.
Pinion angle.jpg
Tierod gap.jpg
 
Very nice!
 
UPDATE

I've developed an advanced drilling position for my plates.

It will still rotate the axle on it's center but it will now also lower the leading arm slightly. The lowering of the arm has several benefits;

1. The tie rod to arm interface should be eliminated even when using HD rods. So there shouldn't be any need for grinding the arms.

2. Easier drilling of the plates. The drill head has more room to fit next to the knuckle and grinding the axle to help it fit will no longer be needed.

3. To reclaim the original holes all you will need to do is remove the plate. The front original hole is untouched and still complete after the install.

For now the same plate is being used but at some point a GEN II plate will be made in a shape more closely matched to the drill pattern.

If you have a set of plates with the old drill pattern and have not installed them, I would consider letting me change the pilot holes to this new pattern. If you send me the plates I'll weld the old holes shut and drill the new ones. I'll cover the cost for priority mail back to you.

This has come about from feedback that I've gotten about the original design and I think everyone will be pleased with the improvements.
 
Hey Rick- This has been a fascinating process! Thanks for expending the time and effort. There are a ton of right hand drive HDJ81s here (mine included) and I am basically set on an FOR gen II kit with your plates and shaft. (potential market?) Do you see any issues with the additional weight of the 1HDT or the RHD front suspension? I have an uncorrected lift which I will throw away if the above system will work as well as it does for North American spec. vehicles. Don't want to spend the $$ if there will be issues- the trouble getting Frankies' shipment across the border will be hassle enough! I've been back and forth on this one for several months now. Thanks.
 
I don't see any install issues as it's the diff location that determines how the right side is installed. I don't know the weight difference between the two motors but I thought they were close. Maybe someone from Oz can better comment on that one.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom