'99 no start (but cranks) after battery replacement - stumped.

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Mauser (or anyone that may have a similar problem) -

I am wondering if someone tried to put a key in their LC that does not have the proper RFID signature for the ECU, do they get the same two codes? For me to get those two codes during code reading, I have plugged in the code reader and turned the ignition to "ON" but obviously not running. I doubt anyone has a key that is cut, but not programmed laying around...but if so that may help quite a bit.

I figure the EFI relay is good since when I replaced the jumper the rig did not start. I figure the main fuse box is good since I have replaced the fuses with NEW ones. I have also looked for any sign of melting or non-contact with none observed.

My next (hopefully logical) steps:
1 - I am looking into the immobilizer system that is within the ignition now, I will try and pull that tonight and see if that has continuity.
2 - (advice needed on this one) - I have seen other toyotas have success by "jumping" two specific ports on the OBD2 port (ports 4 and 13), and then leaving the vehicle to "on" for 20+ minutes for a "handshake". I doubt that will work for ours since I have not seen that on the mud forums. Seems easy though. Picture attached below.
3 - call toyota and beg for a new ECU like some have reported if I purchase two "master keys". I do not know if anyone has had recent success with this, and I am doubtful with the chip issues (and the rig is now 20+ years old)
4 - remove the ecu and send it to someone to reprogram the ECU or replace the EEPROM.
5 - Pull the whole fuse box and look for issues on the bottom side that may have non-contact.

Any advise on maybe skipping a step or starting with another one is welcome while I try and chase this down. No matter what, when I find the solution I will post it and let future mudders know.
3 - View attachment 2917264

Will you be available to talk on the phone in about 45 minutes?
 
Mauser (or anyone that may have a similar problem) -

I am wondering if someone tried to put a key in their LC that does not have the proper RFID signature for the ECU, do they get the same two codes? For me to get those two codes during code reading, I have plugged in the code reader and turned the ignition to "ON" but obviously not running. I doubt anyone has a key that is cut, but not programmed laying around...but if so that may help quite a bit.

I figure the EFI relay is good since when I replaced the jumper the rig did not start. I figure the main fuse box is good since I have replaced the fuses with NEW ones. I have also looked for any sign of melting or non-contact with none observed.

My next (hopefully logical) steps:
1 - I am looking into the immobilizer system that is within the ignition now, I will try and pull that tonight and see if that has continuity.
2 - (advice needed on this one) - I have seen other toyotas have success by "jumping" two specific ports on the OBD2 port (ports 4 and 13), and then leaving the vehicle to "on" for 20+ minutes for a "handshake". I doubt that will work for ours since I have not seen that on the mud forums. Seems easy though. Picture attached below.
3 - call toyota and beg for a new ECU like some have reported if I purchase two "master keys". I do not know if anyone has had recent success with this, and I am doubtful with the chip issues (and the rig is now 20+ years old)
4 - remove the ecu and send it to someone to reprogram the ECU or replace the EEPROM.
5 - Pull the whole fuse box and look for issues on the bottom side that may have non-contact.

Any advise on maybe skipping a step or starting with another one is welcome while I try and chase this down. No matter what, when I find the solution I will post it and let future mudders know.
3 - View attachment 2917264

Using an unprogrammed chip I get:

B2795 Unmatched key code

B2797 Communication malfunction no. 2
 
Went through the 95 / 96 / 97 codes and being unable to pedal dance program.... Long story short aftermarket key and IGN LOCK CYL !!
Key sense and Antennae circuits were hacked/disabled. Easy to check (now) by pulling Drivers Knee panel and Gauge lower WTH!!
Few repairs and was 20 mins.

First clue SHOULD have been no "beeper" or steering memory set...
 

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