98 LX470 owner looking for AHC deletion mechanic or shop in LA

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Joined
Sep 3, 2017
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180
Location
Los Angeles
My 98 LX 470 recently hit a 178K and I am seeing the early signs of another major haul for suspension. The front struts are beginning to sweat. If history repeats, the front accumulators will soon go and then the back struts and accumulators will follow. The last time the system went bad was between 90K and it was a $3.5 K enterprise getting everything fixed.

I have been eyeing a AHC delete for the veichle for some time but have not had any luck finding a shop in LA with the experience or the know how to do this. I have been impressed at the result I seen in the Ironman convert kit.

I thought I reach out to the forum to see if there are any shops you recommend in LA area that has done this. I appreciate everyone’s help!!!
 
Have you checked neutral pressures? Sweating front shocks reliably means the torsion bars need adjustment, which is a 5 minute and free task. The accumulators are $750 for a complete genuine OEM set and an easy replacement. If a shop charged $3.5k for new globes, they overcharged by about $2,500. If they replaced shocks, that was likely unnecessary. Those are lifetime components for most owners, but is often mis-diagnosed by dealers/mechanics that don't understand the AHC shocks don't act like conventional shocks.

AHC knowledge in this community has come a long ways in the last couple years. I suggest reconsidering your downgrade to conventional unless you've already covered the basics on AHC upkeep.

If you end up downgrading to conventional, please reach out. I may take/buy your take off AHC components if they're not badly rusted.
 
Have you checked neutral pressures? Sweating front shocks reliably means the torsion bars need adjustment, which is a 5 minute and free task. The accumulators are $750 for a complete genuine OEM set and an easy replacement. If a shop charged $3.5k for new globes, they overcharged by about $2,500. If they replaced shocks, that was likely unnecessary. Those are lifetime components for most owners, but is often mis-diagnosed by dealers/mechanics that don't understand the AHC shocks don't act like conventional shocks.

AHC knowledge in this community has come a long ways in the last couple years. I suggest reconsidering your downgrade to conventional unless you've already covered the basics on AHC upkeep.

If you end up downgrading to conventional, please reach out. I may take/buy your take off AHC components if they're not badly rusted.
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It just needs the @JunkCrzr89 final touches of adding a YotaMD stamp on the wing(s)
 
Have you checked neutral pressures? Sweating front shocks reliably means the torsion bars need adjustment, which is a 5 minute and free task. The accumulators are $750 for a complete genuine OEM set and an easy replacement. If a shop charged $3.5k for new globes, they overcharged by about $2,500. If they replaced shocks, that was likely unnecessary. Those are lifetime components for most owners, but is often mis-diagnosed by dealers/mechanics that don't understand the AHC shocks don't act like conventional shocks.

AHC knowledge in this community has come a long ways in the last couple years. I suggest reconsidering your downgrade to conventional unless you've already covered the basics on AHC upkeep.

If you end up downgrading to conventional, please reach out. I may take/buy your take off AHC components if they're not badly rusted.
The accumulators were about $750 a pair and the struts ~$400 a pair. However, at that time the ride was bouncy in the front and that repair was about $500 and the same thing on the back occurred about a year later, hence the $3500.

I am not sure how long the front driver struts have been sweating. What is neutral pressure and how do I check for that? Additionally, does the sweating strut indicate a leak or over pressure on the driver side?

Would also appreciate if you could recommend a reader for neutral pressure. I know some of the ones recommended on this forum are quite old.
 
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The accumulators were about $750 a pair and the struts ~$200. However, at that time the ride was bouncy in the front and that repair was about $500 and the same thing on the back occurred about a year later, hence the $3500.

I am not sure how long the front driver struts have been sweating. What is neutral pressure and how do I check for that? Additionally, does the sweating strut indicate a leak or over pressure on the driver side?

Would also appreciate if you could recommend a reader for neutral pressure. I know some of the ones recommended on this forum are quite old.

I would peek through this thread as well as the one referenced in the first post. Techstream is used to measure pressures and you'll need to order a OBD2 cable (cheap).


Techstream runs on Windows XP but I have an emulator setup and run it on my Macbook Pro.
 
The accumulators were about $750 a pair and the struts ~$200. However, at that time the ride was bouncy in the front and that repair was about $500 and the same thing on the back occurred about a year later, hence the $3500.

I am not sure how long the front driver struts have been sweating. What is neutral pressure and how do I check for that? Additionally, does the sweating strut indicate a leak or over pressure on the driver side?

Would also appreciate if you could recommend a reader for neutral pressure. I know some of the ones recommended on this forum are quite old.
Check out the threads on here for ABCs of AHC. @LndXrsr put together a lot of great info. A few posts into that thread you'll find my video on AHC maintenance which gives you a cheat sheet and walks you through every step.

Techstream is old, but it's still the king of data for our vehicles. If you have a laptop that runs windows and a $35-70 miniVCI cable you can do all you need.

Neutral pressures represent how much force is needed from the hydraulics to get the vehicle up to its normal ride height. The torsion bar adjustment is a critical part of that equation and all you need to do is crank up the torsion bar to reduce pressure.

Shocks leaking means either you have a leak (normally at the top O-ring seal where the hose mounts) or simply have too high a pressure in the system because your torsion bars are not adjusted properly.

Before doing anything with AHC, mechanics should check neutral pressures. Unfortunately, that's not always the case and misdiagnosis is very common.

Glad you like the key! :)
 
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I would be surprised if your truck needed a second complete AHC overhaul. Many, including mine, are on their original suspension components at mileages higher than yours. This is not thanks to my own maintenance either, as I have only had the vehicle for the last 10k miles of its life. Do a very thorough ABCs evaluation prior to just ripping it out. You may need anywhere from just globes, to cheap spacers/springs, to a free torsion bar adjustment.
 
I just had mine removed by Valley Hybrids in Stockton, they did an amazing job and rig rides way better without AHC in my opinion
I am excited! Thinking of doing it with the 4x4 Ironman Foam Suspension kit. Did you do it with a differential drop? Is that even necessary?
 
I am excited! Thinking of doing it with the 4x4 Ironman Foam Suspension kit. Did you do it with a differential drop? Is that even necessary?
here is what I just had installed


It cost, but I think it was worth it as I have front and rear bumper with a warn 15 winch in front, adding roof rack and RTT next
 
It added a little height, but with sliders that are going on in a few days it is perfect, my 3 and 6 year old can still climb in, doberman makes the jump as well
 
In what way would you say your aftermarket suspension rides better than a functioning AHC? Very curious!
Ahh, I perhaps stepped in it, what I should have said is that with the added weight I am adding to rig it was starting to ride a little more "squishy" that it did before weight.
For my rig, it was a matter of time before I put more weight on system than it could handle
 
here is what I just had installed


It cost, but I think it was worth it as I have front and rear bumper with a warn 15 winch in front, adding roof rack and RTT next
Did you find the differential drop necessary?
 
I just had mine removed by Valley Hybrids in Stockton, they did an amazing job and rig rides way better without AHC in my opinion
Just so other folks aren't confused:

Functioning AHC should be the most comfortable ride quality you can find - that includes all common aftermarket kits. Ironman, Slee, even the high end ICON setups.

"Rides way better" in your case seems to mean stiffer, I think. If so, I think its helpful to clarify that. That can definitely mean better to some folks, but its important to make the differentiation between on-road comfort and stiffness. Even then, properly setup AHC in sport 2 is pretty close to the OME-level brake dive/roll, etc...

Ahh, I perhaps stepped in it, what I should have said is that with the added weight I am adding to rig it was starting to ride a little more "squishy" that it did before weight.
For my rig, it was a matter of time before I put more weight on system than it could handle

AHC has no real limit on weight. You can run AHC on the most decked out overland rig imaginable. As weight is added on AHC, its important to do the exact same thing you'd do with any other conventional suspension - adjust springs/torsion bars. Adding a steel rear bumper? Swap out the rear springs for something stronger. Adding a front bumper? Crank those torsion bars or swap to a stronger bar. Same process for AHC or conventional.

There not really such a thing as "adding more weight than AHC can handle".

Don't mean to pick on you, just trying to make sure other folks debating how to work on their own rig have all the info. :)
 

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