97 FJ rubber hose replacement

[DJTX]

Hello guys/girls

Just joined your site today.

I bought a 97 FJ about 4 years ago and have searched the forums here multiple times.
I’ve done a lot of repairs to the FJ since buying it and have had Frisbee Auto, the local cruiser guru work on it too. He suggested replacing all of the rubber hoses.
Are OEM hoses the only way to go and are they all available? Are any of the aftermarket hoses better?

 

[leonard_nemoy]

OEM will be the best. I think they are still available. Plug your vin into partsouq.com and you can find all the part #'s.

Aftermarket hoses like gates are probably just as good as OEM but I always recommend OEM first.

 

[MrMacdugal]

Wits' End Solutions for 93-97 80 Series Land Cruisers

Wits' End Solutions for 93-97 80 Series Land Cruisers

absolute-wits-end.com

 

[MoJ]

Cooling System Overhaul Pieces and Parts?

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[DJTX]

OEM will be the best. I think they are still available. Plug your vin into partsouq.com and you can find all the part #'s.

Aftermarket hoses like gates are probably just as good as OEM but I always recommend OEM first.

Thanks. Figured OEM was best if all are still available. The local Toyota dealership quoted roughly $360 for both rear heater hoses. Apparently they’re only available with the metal tubes included. He suggested just buying aftermarket hose and adding to the original metal tubing. Probably what I’ll do.

 

[DJTX]

OEM will be the best. I think they are still available. Plug your vin into partsouq.com and you can find all the part #'s.

Aftermarket hoses like gates are probably just as good as OEM but I always recommend OEM first.

Thx Leonard. Gonna try to get them all ordered

 

[ppc]

Thanks. Figured OEM was best if all are still available. The local Toyota dealership quoted roughly $360 for both rear heater hoses. Apparently they’re only available with the metal tubes included. He suggested just buying aftermarket hose and adding to the original metal tubing. Probably what I’ll do.

There is an option to a rear heater delete. Living in Texas the need for the rear heater is minimal. If you want to replace the metal tubes going to the rear heater requires pulling the motor or dropping the transmission. There are many hoses in the engine bay that should be replaced including the "PHH" and the smaller hose close to it. All of these can be searched on this forum for more infomation.

 

[BILT4ME]

Thanks. Figured OEM was best if all are still available. The local Toyota dealership quoted roughly $360 for both rear heater hoses. Apparently they’re only available with the metal tubes included. He suggested just buying aftermarket hose and adding to the original metal tubing. Probably what I’ll do.

I have found that Partsouq is most competitive on rubber products more than anything else.

I literally just bought all the rubber hoses for the cooling system on my truck from Partsouq. I saved $80 buying from them vs buying from McGeorge. (8) days delivery to my house from the middle east.

I also literally bought the rear heater lines, but I had to buy those from McGeorge and were about $400 with shipping and taxes. I am planning on using them for dimensional checking and replacement in the future. I will most likely do the Gates Green Stripe change on the rear heater until I have the opportunity to change them to the metal lines.

4 Days from McGeorge to my house.

 

[FMC80]

x69 on partsouq. Otherwise, if I buy locally, I use Genuine Toyota Parts - Wholesale Prices | Modern Toyota Parts - https://wholesaledirect.moderntoyota.com/ they usually kick the sh!t out of the competition. McGeorge included. They're slow to ship though. They'll create the shipping label and the ****ers won't ship it for several days after it's created. Then you can expect the standard from USPS where they'll ship your sh!t to Guam, then to PA before reaching Hawaii and act like they meant to do that.

 

[DJTX]

Thx guys. This site is bad ass. Every topic I’ve searched on the forum has been attempted multiple times with multiple methods. The knowledge base here is invaluable.

 

[Devils Paw 80]

Thx guys. This site is bad ass. Every topic I’ve searched on the forum has been attempted multiple times with multiple methods. The knowledge base here is invaluable.

BTW, the common MUD nomenclature for your vehicle is "80" or occasionally "FZJ". FJ is strictly reserved for the FJ Cruiser.

 

[NLXTACY]

BTW, the common MUD nomenclature for your vehicle is "80" or occasionally "FZJ". FJ is strictly reserved for the FJ Cruiser.

FJ80 is 3FE slug
FZJ80 is 1FZ panty peeler

 

[Roketdriver]

If you want to replace the metal tubes going to the rear heater requires pulling the motor or dropping the transmission.

What.

I live somewhere that gets very cold and this has convinced me to do the delete.

 

[DJTX]

Thx Paw ! I’m new to the group, but I’ll get it all figured out

 

[manofthewoods]

What.

I live somewhere that gets very cold and this has convinced me to do the delete.

Delete depends on two (at least) variables: 1) need for "more" heat, specifically in the rear, and, 2) condition of the metal piping under the vehicle.
In my case; zero rust (anywhere), and hunting trips to Montana "forced" me to replace the hoses i.e., I kept the rear heater. I used Gates. Not a particularly difficult job. But, my engine & transmission were out at the time.
Rear heater pumps out major therms!

 

[Kernal]

While people are talking about the rear heater, I'm wondering if anyone
? ( @NLXTACY ) has looked at designing/building an alternate pipe-hose route to the rear heater from the engine bay? Something that's more easily installed with the transmission and engine in-place would be helpful to those that use/need the rear heat. I recall somone talking about doing this a few years ago but haven't seen any follow-up.

FWIW.

 

[White Stripe]

While people are talking about the rear heater, I'm wondering if anyone
? ( @NLXTACY ) has looked at designing/building an alternate pipe-hose route to the rear heater from the engine bay? Something that's more easily installed with the transmission and engine in-place would be helpful to those that use/need the rear heat. I recall somone talking about doing this a few years ago but haven't seen any follow-up.

FWIW.

You can buy just the hose aftermarket rather than the hard line and the hose for the rear heater. I think 9/16" bulk heater hose will work. No need to replace the hard line usually.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Hello guys/girls

Just joined your site today.

I bought a 97 FJ about 4 years ago and have searched the forums here multiple times.
I’ve done a lot of repairs to the FJ since buying it and have had Frisbee Auto, the local cruiser guru work on it too. He suggested replacing all of the rubber hoses.
Are OEM hoses the only way to go and are they all available? Are any of the aftermarket hoses better?

OEM Mr T for sure, buy once cry once. There is a thread somewhere i posted in, cooling was the first thing i did after compression test and engine evaluation when i got my 80 2.5 years ago. Wits End is Fantastic for all of the rubber and odd ball rubber like the tiny manifold hoses and the pesky heater hose. Ill see if i can find the tread i posed in.

Basically i drained the block and radiator, replaced the belts, fan clutch (new blue Aisin failed, did the 15k cst silicone mod, OMG! Amazing!), fan, water pump, T Stat, every hose, every clamp with the constant tension clamps, don't forget the 4 hoses under the rig, Gates Green stripe is your friend for those and the pesky.

This is also a good time to do your "Common Oil Leak" seals as well.

Congratulations
take your time, get an FSM, read lots of Mud, and Enjoy the Journey!

 

[DJTX]

Thanks for the great info.

I've been working on this thing since I bought it....same model as yours. Found it on TruCar at a BMW dealer in Hilton Head, I think I stole it for $3,700. Bought it based on photos and had it sent to Texas. Body is straight, engine runs good, and only minor surface rust on frame. Added Slee lift, caster plates, all new brake lines, calipers, master cylinder. Complete rebuild of front axle with longfield axles and new double cardin front shaft. New bearings and seals in rear axle. I still have a high speed vibration that I think may be the rear drive shaft....may need to add adjustable four link arms to get pinion angle correct? Front E-locker wasn't working had to repair it. Installed new 33" Nitto's couldn't get Toyo at the time. Used one of the jump seats that I took out to recover the front driver's seat, had to take down the headliner and repair the sun roof tray where it was leaking near the front drain tube. New carpet was a pain in the ass. New custom bumpers and 12K winch, front runner roof rack. New exhaust system from manifold back. New Radiator and fan clutch.

Most of the mechanical work and custom bumpers were done by one of my best friends who was a certified Toyota mechanic and is now the auto mechanics teacher at a local high school. Teaching kids how to clean parts and turn wrenches is great especially when there's no cost.

My next projects are wining PS pump, all of the hoses, and I'm looking at re-gearing to 4.88 ?

It's incredible how many people ask, What kind of vehicle is that? I've never seen one of those.

It's an extremely capable truck and built like a tank.

I assuming "common oil leaks" has a thread here?

Thanks again

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Morning,

4:88 are amazing with 35's, i work on my kinda non stop but the last big push was right before the Rubicon in July, I stripped the axles down, regeared, did ARB air lockers and rebuilt them.

Sounds like you're on the right track and in good shape congratulations. I found mine in July 2019 for $3,000, so I know what you're saying about getting a good deal.

Yeah there's a common oil leak thread somewhere on here basically it's the front crank seal behind the pulley the oil pump seal and the distributor o-ring.

I'm planning on buying a factory Short block this year for when the time comes, I still have lots of little odds and ends to do on my 80, seems like I'm always planning on working on something.

Side note about the fan clutch even though I completely redid my cooling system I had heating problems the summer I did it, out of nowhere the brand new Aisin fan clutch blue hub failed. The fan clutch mod works, there's a threat on that too or you can just order one from Land tank, Wayyyyyy easier.

I have land tanks upper and lower rear control arms they are bulletproof and the lower ones took repeated hits over and over on the Rubicon. I installed his uppers just last week and I'll be checking my angles on my drive shaft, dominson's and sleeve both make adjustable rear control arms, if it was me I would only go with the uppers for adjustable.

Who did you go with for the carpet kit I've been thinking about interior but it's not been a priority. Was your master cylinder bad? I'm always looking at preventative maintenance items that I can just work on before things break.

I chased a bunch of vibrations from the driveline and learn quickly to just pull the drive shaft out lock the center differential in high and drive it you can quickly identify if it's a drive shaft issue. I did my u-joints that helped a lot and then I just decided to buy a brand new drive shafts, my front drive shaft I ended up getting a double carton built and I'm still having a tiny bit of vibration in between acceleration and deceleration. I talked to the driveline guy yesterday he said it was torsional vibration that I needed to start clocking the splines in the slip yoke one tooth at a time till it goes away. I dig how I'm always learning something new