96/97 heavy duty rear drive shaft (1 Viewer)

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So what are the cool kids doing these days with regards to a heavier than OEM tube rear drive shaft?

My custom fab guy is too busy to deal with me, so I am looking for an off the shelf product. I would like to keep the OEM joints as I feel they are better quality than Spicer or any other manufacturer for that matter. I don't need double cardan or anything fancy. Just a good thick piece of tube that can take a shot without complaint and one that can be balanced within reason.
 
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highly recomended ,any driveline shop can swap out the stock one for a heavy wall,mine was under $200 canadian done and balanced.
 
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Agreed with above, I paid about 100bucks out the door for new thicker wall and bigger DIA tube. Re used my factory joints if they are still in good working order.
 

Onur

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Square for wheeling. OEM new for road driving.

10 minutes to swap in an out.

:)
 

Onur

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Cheap and you can beat the snot out of them. You can have two made for the price of one heavy duty fancy shaft.

:)
 
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JE Reel in Cali, toughest drive shafts on the market. They build almost all the King of Hammers drive lines.
 

NLXTACY

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Been using Wenco for 25 years. Never ever a complaint and do them for the hot rod and high torque guys.
 
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View attachment 953429

Been using Wenco for 25 years. Never ever a complaint and do them for the hot rod and high torque guys.

These guys are great. My neighbor builds alcohol drag cars that run somewhere in the 6 second range I believe, and he uses these guys for his drive shafts. I've had them re-build both drive shafts for me and they've had them done in less than 3 days each time.
 
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Wow. I just got a quote of $700 to have a custom heavy duty shaft made at a driveshaft shop. For that price I would have it powder coated and hang it on my wall. My fabricator wants $350. WTF?
 
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Agreed with above, I paid about 100bucks out the door for new thicker wall and bigger DIA tube. Re used my factory joints if they are still in good working order.

You got that done after you moved here right? Which shop? Something I'll need to do eventually
 
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Back in the days I had a Chevy Blazer.. swapped in 3/4 ton axles on 44s and 12" of lift. I was always ripping up shafts and u-joints. I eventually swapped out the Pinon Yokes to a 1 Ton yoke (larger U-joint) and built a bigger matching shaft.. problem solved... Have you guys thought about upgrading the to Larger Yoke (Say from a Tundra), U joints and matching shaft......

Good luck
 

Onur

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Back in the days I had a Chevy Blazer.. swapped in 3/4 ton axles on 44s and 12" of lift. I was always ripping up shafts and u-joints. I eventually swapped out the Pinon Yokes to a 1 Ton yoke (larger U-joint) and built a bigger matching shaft.. problem solved... Have you guys thought about upgrading the to Larger Yoke (Say from a Tundra), U joints and matching shaft......

Good luck


No thanks.


The Tundras are all Spicer junk.

Welcome to the new Toyota.... "Moving Forward" :rolleyes:
 

Onur

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No need. Toyota yokes and ujoints are absolutely adequate for 99% of the power anyone puts on them.

EDIT: Clarification: if you are breaking Toyota Land Cruiser ujoints there are other issues besides ujoint and yokes that you need to be addressing.
 
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