Build '95 4runner TDI swap

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You were right. There is a fuel pump relay with the wiring harness. It is connected to the relay for the glow plugs and I thought it was part of the same system. Half of the battle with the electrical system is me. I have been dragging my feet with the electrical feeling sure that I am going to fry it.

What is the minimum I need to get it to run. I'm thinking just power to the ecu, engine controls plugged in and a working fuel pump. The brakes, clutch, cruise, fans...etc arent critical to it actually starting. I still have the exhaust to weld up...that buys me some time.;)
 
You are correct, the engine is stand alone so you could wire it up to a fuel cell and a battery on a pallet if you wanted.

I would get the gauges, intercooler and at least a 12-18 inch down pipe functional as well.
 
Next week I am going to start working on the exhaust. I have the intercooler ready except an oring that should be here by next week. I think I have the gauges figured out but Ill have to start it to make sure. Im less sure about the charge light and the check engine light.

I found a leak in the fuel system when I ran the pump to drain the tank. It is a metric oring style fitting so I need to find some orings for that too.

I need to get the system that connects to this computer so I can better see what is going on.
 
I got the intercooler all hooked up today so the intake should be done other than the air filter.

I got the fuel system fully connected but I have to find a way to put some diesel in it. I only have gas cans and they are only 1.5 gallons each and I use them for my mower so I hope diesel residue in a gas tank is ok.

I still have to finish wiring but I feel like I know what I'm doing so hopefully it will be easy.

The exhaust is going to be tricky. I have enough room to snake it between the engine, starter, clutch hose and the frame, brake lines, fuel pump and lines...ect. Or I could go out the fender and on the outside of the frame.

How close can wrapped exhaust tubing get to fuel lines, brake lines...etc?
 
If you check out my build thread you'll see how I built a heat shield and attached it to my firewall.

I did go back and put some heat shield on my clutch line that came off my son's Audi TDI when I did the DPF delete. All those useless emissions sensors had wonderful removable insulation sleeves.

You can also lava tape your downpipe if you'd like.
 
I had to look up lava tape. Ive always just called it exhaust wrap. I never knew it had a name. I kept the insulation from the firewall between the original exhaust cross tube that I will try to use.

I read through your thread but I will have to go back and look at it.
 
lava tape is a brand of exhaust wrap.

I'm also guessing you don't have a VW or three on hand to steal their heat shield off of. eBay and Amazon have the universal aluminized or titanium or fiberglass heat shield wrap/sleeves to help protect your wiring/clutch lines. I like the VW ones because they have stainless snaps for quick removal/install as the aftermarket ones slide over your wires/lines requiring much more effort to remove/install

It's also amazing how easily one can sculpt up small heat shields with a rivet gun, metal shears and an old licence plate.
 
Ive been looking at making an exhaust sleeve and heat shields. either way I can start building the exhaust and now know I can effectively keep the other lines safe.

There really isnt much room on the right side of the truck for anything. Im going to have a lot of twists and turns to go around to get to the left without running into anything.
 
This is part of the reason I recommend a BHW exhaust manifold/turbo on other TDI engines. The BHW holds the turbo higher. This makes more room for starter/wiring/clutch slave, etc.
 
I think I have more room than a lot of people end up with. I didn't have to struggle too much with engine placement. I'm more worried about the exhaust heating what it gets close to. I would have never thought that the original exhaust wrapping around the back of the engine was a good idea but it worked. I think my problem came when I finished putting in the fuel pump and then looked at where the exhaust has to go. Today I moved the fuel pump back about 12" and should have plenty of room for the exhaust now. It will run about 1" or more away from everything so If I insulate it well it should be fine. I also finally got the tank drained and put 4 gallons of diesel in. I want to fix my brake lines which will be easier without the exhaust in. I feel like I'm getting close. Build the exhaust, fix the brakes, connect the wires, and then start it.

I'm thinking about wrapping the exhaust in ceramic insulation that is supposed to be good up to 2600* and then heat shielding around that. The videos I've watched say you could about touch it after its been running. I'm not sure if that's true but I going to try unless I can find a decent priced exhaust sock (or whatever they are called)

I have the coolant, power steering, and intercooler connected and tight. Once I start it I will probably have a whole new set of projects.

I'm still not sure what I am going to do with all of the wiring I have in the passenger footwell.
 
If you pull the passenger side fender you'll see where the boot goes into the kick panel for the ECU wiring. One could open it and glue it back together.
 
MoabPorkChop said:
Do you mean to be able to mount the ecu in the fender?
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You said you had a wiring mess in the passenger foot well, I was suggesting if you needed to outboard it into the engine bay you can go that route.

I'd probably mount the ECU either in the engine bay or in the cab, I wouldn't want anything mounted where the fender needs removal for access. Sounds like something Ford would do
 
Ok...I get it. I didnt really think about mounting the ecu in the engine bay but I have a lot more room there than where it is. I was going to pull as much wire out into the engine bay as I could but I thought the ECU was an inside thing. I could build a box around it if I need to.

Thanks again.
 
I didn't do any wiring today but I started on the exhaust. It was a lot of cutting, tacking, installing, cutting the tack, recutting, tacking again, reinstalling...etc. I got very little done but at least I started.
 
The Chilton repair manual has the most comprehensive wiring diagrams I have ever found for Toyota trucks of that era.

Many years ago, I had a 1990 3.0 SR5 pickup and I swapped the motor from a 1989 4runner with a 3.0. When I got to the harness I cut it thinking I would just use the harness off the 4runner. I don't remember the specifics, but the Ecu and wiring was not the same. I got multiple Ecu's from the junkyard and none would work with the pigtails. I spent hours and hours following wiring diagrams and lining up wires in the pin connectors from the 4runner to match the pickup. Couldn't have done it without the Chilton. It shows you every configuration of wiring and ecu with the wire colors.
 
I have been working a lot for the past couple of weeks but I am getting back at it tomorrow. Hopefully it goes well.
 
mountainhorn said:
The Chilton repair manual has the most comprehensive wiring diagrams I have ever found for Toyota trucks of that era.

Many years ago, I had a 1990 3.0 SR5 pickup and I swapped the motor from a 1989 4runner with a 3.0. When I got to the harness I cut it thinking I would just use the harness off the 4runner. I don't remember the specifics, but the Ecu and wiring was not the same. I got multiple Ecu's from the junkyard and none would work with the pigtails. I spent hours and hours following wiring diagrams and lining up wires in the pin connectors from the 4runner to match the pickup. Couldn't have done it without the Chilton. It shows you every configuration of wiring and ecu with the wire colors.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info. I relooked through my Chiltons and realized that there was more than I thought. I ended up getting wiring schematics from another IH8Mudder that I used. I think the real problem was my inexperience with factory harnesses and wiring diagrams. Other than switching sensors or bypassing the factory wiring I never really did much. My auto wiring knowledge never got used on much past carburetors and crank windows.
 
I finished up the vacuum system. I am thinking that I need something vacuum related for the front axle 4wd system but I havent figured that out yet.

I also got a good start of the exhaust. Im not sure how to switch sides but I can get it through the mess on the passenger side engine area.
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