- Thread starter
- #121
Hopefully this isnt too stupid of a question but can I just use these connections that were connected to the ecu. I have been thinking that I need to trace each wire and cut into it?
Build '95 4runner TDI swap
- Thread starter MoabPorkChop
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #122
I didn't have a vss issue but I did have to convert it.
I'm running the gauge cluster from a 2005 Passat so the vss needed to be converted/adjusted to run my speedometer(along with other things like fuel gauge, turn signals, high beam light, etc)
Being that you're using a factory yota transmission found in the 2nd Gen and a factory cluster you'll have zero issue with the speedometer (although it might be off due to gearing/tire size)
The 2nd Gen iirc got electronic vss on the transfer case put flange housing.
What you will need to figure out how adaptation of your tachometer, cel, oil light.
You deleted your abs light and your stock ECU.
You'll want to take power away from the abs light as it's now likely to Christmas tree. If you don't have a spot on the factory cluster that works as a glow plug for the diesel option surf that was available everywhere else in the world, the abs light would be wired to be my glow plug light.
You'll need to make your original cel light activate via your TDI ECU how. You'll also need to adapt your tach.
But your vss should remain the same although if you want it calibrated to be 100% accurate you can put in an adjustable adapter box to make it so.
While this isn't the one an only way to wire up the vehicle, this is what I did. My TDI ECU is mounted under the glove box, it was the shortest route to easily accessible power. Also easy to run wires behind the dash to make the gauge cluster work properly.
- Thread starter
- #125
My speedometer is cable driven but I believe that I still have a VSS...probably for the computer. I am hoping to tap into the old ecu plug on the car so I dont have to do as much under the dash. I have taken it out before to replace the speedo cable and will do what I need to but the more I can stick to existing wiring and connections the better.
I got a wiring diagram for the 4runner from one the the members here. Now I can identify what I'm looking at rather than almost randomly testing circuits.
One thing I did find testing the fuses under the drivers side dash is everything seems to run through the center top fuse labeled IGN. The weird thing is that it is only a 7.5 amp fuse running 7 other fuses up to 20 amps each. The fuse rating of 7.5 amps is correct according to the FSM. I don't understand why any downstream fuse would be more than 7.5 amps?
Matt.
I got a wiring diagram for the 4runner from one the the members here. Now I can identify what I'm looking at rather than almost randomly testing circuits.
One thing I did find testing the fuses under the drivers side dash is everything seems to run through the center top fuse labeled IGN. The weird thing is that it is only a 7.5 amp fuse running 7 other fuses up to 20 amps each. The fuse rating of 7.5 amps is correct according to the FSM. I don't understand why any downstream fuse would be more than 7.5 amps?
Matt.
The r150f can come with a cable driven vss or an electronic.
I have one of each. I've not tested mine but I'd be willing to make an even trade for your electric one if you want my mechanical. Came from an rolled truck. They appear to slide in the same, we just need an r150 expert to verify the gear pickup is the same.
Or get an electric speedo driven cluster from a 2nd Gen 4 runner/ same years of pickup.
I really like being able to adjust the speedometer to be accurate.
I have one of each. I've not tested mine but I'd be willing to make an even trade for your electric one if you want my mechanical. Came from an rolled truck. They appear to slide in the same, we just need an r150 expert to verify the gear pickup is the same.
Or get an electric speedo driven cluster from a 2nd Gen 4 runner/ same years of pickup.
I really like being able to adjust the speedometer to be accurate.
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I believe most 2nd gen 4runenrs and 3rd gen pickups are pre-wired with a VSS. I know my 89 pickup had a factory VSS wire I used for my 3rz swap and cruiser control. According to the wiring diagram ECU plug E6 should have a G-L wire in pin 9 that’s a VSS wire. It goes through IH to the C12 plug (pin 6).
I was thinking the 2nd Gen 4 runner was an odd ball in they came out using a cable vss, went to electric, then back to cable.
- Thread starter
- #129
I have been working and not able to look for the VSS on the 4runner but I have had time to start going through the wiring diagram. I never would have figured any of this out with just a continuity tester. It turns out that I was following the grounds and not the power side. trying to figure out a relay or a relay that turns on another relay is impossible with out some understanding of how it is supposed to be wired before hand. The diagrams are making all of the difference.
I will be home again and working on the 4runner Tuesday. I'm still waiting on some wire and a fuse for the ECU. My plan is to start the exhaust and get to the wiring when that is together enough to function without suffocating me while driving.
I will be home again and working on the 4runner Tuesday. I'm still waiting on some wire and a fuse for the ECU. My plan is to start the exhaust and get to the wiring when that is together enough to function without suffocating me while driving.
Ever heard of or seen an Add-a-fuse?
You unplug a fuse from the driver's kick panel and push the add a fuse in. This adds an extra fuse...as advertised.
Using a multi meter find a fuse that has power with key on and no power at off.
Add the fuse link with appropriate amp fuse.
Not the prettiest install but every dash cam I install gets one of these. Makes for an easy install without the need for any wiring diagrams
This might help you out with wiring in anything extra like electric fans, ac clutch power etc. something small like a dash cam or small LED lamp lights can be run through the fuse link/switch but larger items like radiator fan, ax clutch, blinding bar, etc needs an appropriate relay wired in.
You unplug a fuse from the driver's kick panel and push the add a fuse in. This adds an extra fuse...as advertised.
Using a multi meter find a fuse that has power with key on and no power at off.
Add the fuse link with appropriate amp fuse.
Not the prettiest install but every dash cam I install gets one of these. Makes for an easy install without the need for any wiring diagrams
This might help you out with wiring in anything extra like electric fans, ac clutch power etc. something small like a dash cam or small LED lamp lights can be run through the fuse link/switch but larger items like radiator fan, ax clutch, blinding bar, etc needs an appropriate relay wired in.
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- Thread starter
- #131
I did just learn about add-a-fuse this weekend. U was just tracing wires and havent added power yet because I wanted to make sure I wasnt doing something dumb and going to fry everything. Its not the prettiest 4runner anyway so I am going to order some for when i start connecting the ECU wires.
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- Thread starter
- #133
I have spent the day reading and highlighting my wiring diagram so I can figure out where the wires I need go through the connector I have access to. I realized that I was missing part of the connector locations and finally realized that I didnt print everything I needed.
I have also been buttoning up the last of the mechanical bits. I did realize that I didnt ever clean up my brake line mess. I had just connected the two lines together that ran to the front Powersteering/rear anti-lock cluster. They are just kind of sitting in space and I need to shorten them but there is an engine in the way..
My vss is on the side of the transmission but only has two wires. The description with the harness I have says that two wire VSS doesnt work but it doesnt say what will work in my situation.
Also my clutch switch is the opposite of what I need. It is open until the clutch is pushed and then it sends 12v. I need constant 12v that opens when it is pressed. I will have to move the position of the switch or get a new one. Either way it will be a pain.
Other than that stuff Im starting to feel like I could actually do this.
I have also been buttoning up the last of the mechanical bits. I did realize that I didnt ever clean up my brake line mess. I had just connected the two lines together that ran to the front Powersteering/rear anti-lock cluster. They are just kind of sitting in space and I need to shorten them but there is an engine in the way..
My vss is on the side of the transmission but only has two wires. The description with the harness I have says that two wire VSS doesnt work but it doesnt say what will work in my situation.
Also my clutch switch is the opposite of what I need. It is open until the clutch is pushed and then it sends 12v. I need constant 12v that opens when it is pressed. I will have to move the position of the switch or get a new one. Either way it will be a pain.
Other than that stuff Im starting to feel like I could actually do this.
- Thread starter
- #134
When I first read this it was complete greek. I didnt understand at all but now that I have dug into the wiring diagram I get it.
Thanks again for the diagrams.
Matt.
Thanks again for the diagrams.
Matt.
- Thread starter
- #135
Im still going through wiring. I think I have most everything figured out with some emails back and forth to FastForward. I feel for him. He must get a lot of stupid questions. Several from me.
I am not sure how I am going to do the cruise control. The factory system seems to use a switch to turn it on and the rest (resume,set,coast...etc) are all on the same wire and just use resistors to vary the resistance which the cruise control ecu figures out...I think? either way I am going to ad a few extra buttons. I will use the steering wheel power button but the others I will have to mount somewhere.
I have a couple of NC relays on order to solve the clutch problem. The CEL is also backwards from the toyota so I will use an NC relay there too. After that I am out of excuses for not getting it running.
I am not sure how I am going to do the cruise control. The factory system seems to use a switch to turn it on and the rest (resume,set,coast...etc) are all on the same wire and just use resistors to vary the resistance which the cruise control ecu figures out...I think? either way I am going to ad a few extra buttons. I will use the steering wheel power button but the others I will have to mount somewhere.
I have a couple of NC relays on order to solve the clutch problem. The CEL is also backwards from the toyota so I will use an NC relay there too. After that I am out of excuses for not getting it running.
- Thread starter
- #136
I have been wiring everything back together and have a couple of questions. Can I connect several things (relays) to the power source that gives key on power to the ecu? Should the fuel pump come on when the key is in the run position (after accessories and before start)?
Matt.
Matt.
- Thread starter
- #137
I think I figured out the fuel pump. I am just going to eliminate the circuit opening relay. The fuel pump doesnt run without it in start or if the MAF telling it that the engine is running. That might not be totally correct but close.
The TDI ECU should have its own fuel pump relay, this relay can be activated iirc via VCDS to do neat things like prime a fuel filter, test lift pump pressure etc. you don't need to add in an alternate source. Back when I got my kit from David at fast forward these relays were clear and lit up
- Thread starter
- #139
I didnt know that. I will look into it. I havent seen anything labeled fuel pump but I didnt know to look...thanks
You're welcome. I've not into been into any BRM or BEW engines but I'm willing to bet they are a very similar ed16 ECU set up