- Thread starter
- #101
I started looking at intake and exhaust parts and damn they are expensive. Vbands are ridiculous. I was hoping to get away with silicone adapters and aluminum tubing.
Build '95 4runner TDI swap
- Thread starter MoabPorkChop
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I purchased a stainless mandrel 2.5 exhaust kit for a V8 vehicle, came with enough parts to do my exhaust and my son's Audi a3 exhaust after the delete.
It was about 125-150
The stainless v band, I got I believe 8 or 10 for around 100 bucks.
All from eBay.
For the intercooler piping and elbows I also went the eBay route, I don't recall the exact pricing as I had to redo my set up when I switched to a bigger intercooler.
Do forget your flex pipe, another 30-40 bucks. eBay or Amazon. The more flexible the better
It was about 125-150
The stainless v band, I got I believe 8 or 10 for around 100 bucks.
All from eBay.
For the intercooler piping and elbows I also went the eBay route, I don't recall the exact pricing as I had to redo my set up when I switched to a bigger intercooler.
Do forget your flex pipe, another 30-40 bucks. eBay or Amazon. The more flexible the better
- Thread starter
- #103
Im starting to look at the wiring and am lost. I started by trying to wire the fuel pump in and realized that I dont know if I can use the old wiring or if I need to run something new. I am under the impression that the engine wiring was separate from the rest of the truck wiring. I figured that this means that I can connect the large diameter alternator wire to the new alternator and the fuel pump will work normally as well.
I tried to read the wiring schematics and couldn't figure out what was going on.
I am looking for any insight at all. Thanks, Matt
I tried to read the wiring schematics and couldn't figure out what was going on.
I am looking for any insight at all. Thanks, Matt
On the 1st Gen 4 runner all the wiring to the fuel pump and fuel gauge went through a boot on the passenger side floor pan.
I cut and spliced into them where they began to run up the inside of the cab pillar between the door and underside of the dash.
You can run new wires if yours looked suspect but mine still looked to be in good shape so I kept them
During my wiring process I had no interior, carpet, dash, hood or fenders.
I cut and spliced into them where they began to run up the inside of the cab pillar between the door and underside of the dash.
You can run new wires if yours looked suspect but mine still looked to be in good shape so I kept them
During my wiring process I had no interior, carpet, dash, hood or fenders.
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- Thread starter
- #105
I saw that you disassembled the interior. I would rather rebuild the engine. I've take a few dashes apart but it was always a struggle.
I followed the fuel pump wires to the point where they entered the vehicle below the drivers side seat and what thinking of digging into the loom there. Will the body harness still run the fuel pump? Is it activated by the key or the ecu? Can I just connect a 12v from the battery to drain the tank? How do I find the relay it uses? I've found it on the schematics but have no idea where the relay is. I figured that if I could find that I could test it at least. I have a service manual but it doesn't have a layout of where the wires are on the vehicle.
I'll keep looking and will probably realize that it has been staring me in the face the whole time.
I followed the fuel pump wires to the point where they entered the vehicle below the drivers side seat and what thinking of digging into the loom there. Will the body harness still run the fuel pump? Is it activated by the key or the ecu? Can I just connect a 12v from the battery to drain the tank? How do I find the relay it uses? I've found it on the schematics but have no idea where the relay is. I figured that if I could find that I could test it at least. I have a service manual but it doesn't have a layout of where the wires are on the vehicle.
I'll keep looking and will probably realize that it has been staring me in the face the whole time.
- Thread starter
- #106
I'm thinking about hooking up the red wire from the relay box that seems to give the rest of the car power. As long as I dont connect the engine harness I assume that everything will be fine and I can try testing different systems and get a better understanding of what I actually need to pay attention to.
I couldn't tell you 100% as I've never messed with the wiring of a 2nd Gen.
My fast forward harness came with a relay that has wiring labeled (fuel pump). I scraped the OEM ECU for a few bucks on Craigslist, not sure keeping it in place would have worked.
My ECU is mounted to the underside of the dash on the passenger side. I'm not sure if the fuel pump relay is under the hood or on the driver's side fuse box.
For me it was easier to sort out which wires went to the fuel pump and splice them in. I also needed to find the fuel gauge wires as I'm running a conversion box to make the yota fuel sending unit work with the Passat cluster. So all of those wires were cut and modified.
I ended up cutting a hole in the boot of the harness to add additional wires for my speedometer, a universal vss pickup that is adjustable to dial in the speedometer properly. It runs off of the 4 flange nuts on the rear differential flange
My fast forward harness came with a relay that has wiring labeled (fuel pump). I scraped the OEM ECU for a few bucks on Craigslist, not sure keeping it in place would have worked.
My ECU is mounted to the underside of the dash on the passenger side. I'm not sure if the fuel pump relay is under the hood or on the driver's side fuse box.
For me it was easier to sort out which wires went to the fuel pump and splice them in. I also needed to find the fuel gauge wires as I'm running a conversion box to make the yota fuel sending unit work with the Passat cluster. So all of those wires were cut and modified.
I ended up cutting a hole in the boot of the harness to add additional wires for my speedometer, a universal vss pickup that is adjustable to dial in the speedometer properly. It runs off of the 4 flange nuts on the rear differential flange
- Thread starter
- #108
I dont have a fuel pump wire labeled on my harness. But in searching I found a VSS wire. I assume its variable speed sensor. I can already tell I'm going to struggle.
I did finish setting up the power steering system except for where to mount the fluid tank. I ordered the parts I need for connecting the intercooler and I'm starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel. I am definitely moving towards it. Everything is fitting much better than I though it would. I know that when I'm all done the fixing begins.
[SIZE=5]dohcdelsol93[/SIZE] Your build is impressing me more every page. I really like the back bumper with tire mount you got. It is exactly what I am looking for.
I did finish setting up the power steering system except for where to mount the fluid tank. I ordered the parts I need for connecting the intercooler and I'm starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel. I am definitely moving towards it. Everything is fitting much better than I though it would. I know that when I'm all done the fixing begins.
[SIZE=5]dohcdelsol93[/SIZE] Your build is impressing me more every page. I really like the back bumper with tire mount you got. It is exactly what I am looking for.
the can2dash from fast-forward should enable you an easy vss hook-up for your ECU set up if memory serves me correctly.
There are other ways to feed it, that one is likely the easiest as it also helps provide other features like CEL and glow plug lights
- Thread starter
- #110
I have the can2dash and will be digging into how it works and what to connect it to this weekend.
- Thread starter
- #111
I got the power steering done. It looks better than I was expecting.
- Thread starter
- #112
Do I need to have the AC pump connected and full if it is turning with the engine? I hoping that I dont need to so I can get this thing running a worry about the ac in the spring.
The intake parts are being delivered this week. After that I think its just wiring and exhaust.
The intake parts are being delivered this week. After that I think its just wiring and exhaust.
You'll want to seal off the ports on the AC compressor if you're going to run with it disconnected, but apart from that it will be just fine. Unless the clutch is energized it will just act like an idler pulley. That's the way I've had mine for the past 5 years.
That hit pressure hose on the power steering looks a bit aged!
- Thread starter
- #115
It's new. I didn't see those cracks before you pointed them out. I will check tomorrow. I've noticed that my phone sees better than my eyes do. Hopefully its a trick of the light or I will have to take it back.
Thanks
- Thread starter
- #116
I finished the top intake tube and the bottom is almost done.
- Thread starter
- #117
What is the best way to identify which wires do what. I spent a while trying to figure out a keyed power with a continuity tester and couldn't find anything. I'm guessing that it all goes through a relay but I'm not sure. I bought a service manual but it doesnt have a wiring schematic and even if it did I have never been able to figure out the location of the wires from it. I was hoping that the service manual would have the location of the wiring harness and the color of the wires. I can follow a simple circuit but Just finding the information is whats stopping me.
I'm not completely ignorant of electronics. I have wired a CNC from scratch and a VFD but that wiring seems simple compared.
I'm not completely ignorant of electronics. I have wired a CNC from scratch and a VFD but that wiring seems simple compared.
- Thread starter
- #118
I just found a diagram of the 4 relay blocks through the car. I will do more testing tomorrow.
You could ask someone on here for an FSM. Toyota makes great wiring FSM diagrams.
Or use a multi meter and go down to where your old ECU was mounted.
If I remember correctly there's a key on positive and a constant positive at the pins that enter the ECU.
Wouldn't be hard to spice in there. This should be at the passenger side kick panel if it's anything like the 1st Gen 4 runner.
Or use a multi meter and go down to where your old ECU was mounted.
If I remember correctly there's a key on positive and a constant positive at the pins that enter the ECU.
Wouldn't be hard to spice in there. This should be at the passenger side kick panel if it's anything like the 1st Gen 4 runner.
- Thread starter
- #120
I went out last night and decided to follow the wire that went to the battery from the relays under the hood. I found the relay that goes to switched power and a fuse that stays on while starting. I will go back out and figure out What connects to the ecu. It was in the passenger foot well and that is where I am planning on mounting the new ecu. I am pretty sure that the old ecu only really controlled some of the dash and the engine electronics. Im hoping that the rest of the body is just switches and relays.
I found a video that explains FSM diagrams. I knew I was missing something. My manual is a toyota service manual that I bought from ebay and it seems to be missing the big schematics. It has some circuits but the index sucks so finding them has been difficult. I need a searchable one so I can atleast find the correct page.
Thanks again
I found a video that explains FSM diagrams. I knew I was missing something. My manual is a toyota service manual that I bought from ebay and it seems to be missing the big schematics. It has some circuits but the index sucks so finding them has been difficult. I need a searchable one so I can atleast find the correct page.
Thanks again