wow, yes that arm was suppose to be straight, it connects to the needle via a linkage, obviously no longer connected, and may now be missing, the arm flexes ( and moves the needle) based on ow much current passes through the white wire,
well, I "fixed" it straight again and connected it to the spindle w/ some goop. I don't expect it'll work, but going to give it a try anyway. One never knows.
Hmmm
I don't know what was different about my setup-
maybe the thermistor? Maybe something funky in wiring?
My dash display shows the temp at about 1/3. Pretty "cool". I shot the block in various places with an IR gun and it shows about 190 (185-195, more or less) so I think that the motor is in fact up to temp, but the gauge is showing low. I'm going to be content with it for the time being as I don't care enough to pull the dash apart again, but if anyone wants to brainstorm possible solutions, eventually I'd like to see about making it work.
I can't say what it would do w/ higher temps as I'm not inclined to force an overheat just to test the gauge!
hd-t motor w/ manual tranny 1993
transplanted.... from I don't know what
diesel dash. not sure what year. but a stock hd-t
the needle does swing up to the 1/3 mark from cold. it appears to track what I would guess is a reasonable temperature climb.
*edit: on short trips, it spends a little time below the 1/3 mark... not fully warmed up. So at a guess I'm thinking that the issue could be too much/not enough resistance in the wiring to to the thermistor? I'll reread the thread some to see if that makes sense. Shoot... it could be a lot of things
yes, I imagine that would change things
the diesel Tstat opens at 165-172* F (nominal 76* C, but 74-78 is "normal" in the FSM)
Where does the Gasser open?
I suppose I could pull the thermistor, boil some water and figure out how hot it gets to go to the red, but that seems like about as much work as just installing another temp gauge. Hmmm....
If not, I will probably order a batch and have some available for others. Has a consensus been reached on the 75/100 -vs- the 150/100 mods or is it just a matter of personal preference?
OK I'm in for the mod now seeing as I am catching up on other stuff but there is a problem or two. The first is I cannot source the resistors here in Spain in particular mil spec, sooooooo I need someone (pleeeease) to post me a set, the second problem is I have a 94 manual diesel UK spec vehicle and it is all original so I am unsure what set of resistors I should be going with however, I do like things to be 'right' and there is not a lot of info so I have no issue being a guinea pig. The car is also GREEN so this may affect the gauge
So if someone can bundle up the three or however many configurations there are and PM me with a price I can then give them my post code and send them money, I promise to do the mod and post up the results real quick but as I do not think my car is OBD II compliant you will have to put up with data taken with a IR gun, anyone love me enough?
I know mate hence the guinea pig comment in my post, I just need the resistors to try it out, I have spent a fair while around electronics ect and I won't cry if I naff it up.
I do not have a clue Raventai, if you do not mind checking it out and put a couple of quid on for a beer I'm good for it, PM me with your payment method/details, if you can get them to me I would be really grateful...............careful.....not that grateful
I may have an extra set of resistors floating around as well
if I find them I'll let you know
I have gotten used to the gauge as it sits now--- a little low looking under normal operation, but I can clearly tell when the motor is not warmed up vs. when it is running a little hot. That's good enough for now
because my oil px is so trashed, I am looking at aftermarket options to put into the space on the instrument cluster and might just get rid of the stock temp gauge completely.... if that happens I can send you my gauge David. but it would be a while as I have other projects that are more compelling right now.
I may have an extra set of resistors floating around as well
if I find them I'll let you know
I have gotten used to the gauge as it sits now--- a little low looking under normal operation, but I can clearly tell when the motor is not warmed up vs. when it is running a little hot. That's good enough for now
because my oil px is so trashed, I am looking at aftermarket options to put into the space on the instrument cluster and might just get rid of the stock temp gauge completely.... if that happens I can send you my gauge David. but it would be a while as I have other projects that are more compelling right now.
That would be good let me know as and when, meanwhile I am hoping Raventai is going to sort me some components so I can at least test it on my car. I want to get things like this out of the way before I start modifying the starter/charging electrics ect.
I just did this mod and I kept thinking there has to be an easier way to remove these components and solder them back in. When I had the gauge in my hand I seen this was only a single sided printed circuit board and was held to the assembly by 6 attach points. I removed the hardware and had just the board in my hand. Makes this much easier to work with "however" the 4 nuts holding the board to the back of the temp gauge has a metal housing that will slide off the internal winding so just hold that with one finger, remove the board and you can sit it on a surface until you are ready to assemble.
These are pics of the board from my 93 fuel/oil cluster and one pic I modified that has been shown on here but I added labels.
Ok, my mod is done and I have been in the red already. What is that temperature supposed to be? I have a 93 and used the 50 and 110 Ohm 3 watt 1% wire wound resistors. How do I know what the "actual" temperature I am seeing is? A/C is blowing cold, never gets shut off and I hear no pinging.
With those resistors the bottom of red should be about 217 and the top of red about 226 this corresponds to the AC kill range, pegged hot (mechanical limit of the needle beyond the red zone) is 244, specs for the AC kill switch are shut off at 226 and come back on again when it cools to 217 (I have not confirmed these by any test just as speced), so if you are in the red above 217 bu do not exceed 226 the AC would keep running,
The 97 gauge from a scrapped LX and the gauge from my 96 LX both agreed with the above, on the 96 and up we have gotten OBDII confirmation that these numbers are reasonably accurate, but Semlin sent me a 93 gauge to test and
we have a bit of a wrinkle, it came out a few degrees cooler, it was not a significant difference and I do not know if that was particular to that individual gauge or a slight difference for all 93 gauges, they are a different part number but of very similar construction, main visually apparent difference is one moved mount post to fit the 93 cluster.
Pics for Semlins 93 gauge on test bench after mod :
spec vehicle and it is all original so I am unsure what set of resistors I should be going with however, I do like things to be 'right' and there is not a lot of info so I have no issue being a guinea pig. The car is also GREEN 
so this may affect the gauge 
