The stock radiator is god awful as a cooler. You need an auxiliary one. And living in az it's warm enough that bypassing the radiator won't create issues with the fluid not warming up.
92 HDJ81 radiator-where to get? (1 Viewer)
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The stock radiator is god awful as a cooler. You need an auxiliary one. And living in az it's warm enough that bypassing the radiator won't create issues with the fluid not warming up.
Does anyone have a recommendation for a transmission cooler? And maybe photos of how / where you mounted and installed it? I'm about to push the button and get one of these eBay aluminum radiators for MT and then add a separate AT cooler. It will probably work out to about the same cost as one of the higher quality aftermarket AT versions, but theoretically will have better cooling capacity for both the engine and transmission. If I go through with it, I'll report back on what I get an how it goes.
Install
The canal boat
Any idea what length your sensor was? I'm eying the same fitting from Radd Cruisers and a 0.87" sensor (standard 1/8" VDO apparently). Trying to figure out if I'll need/want the male-to-female adapter as a spacer or not. A bit hard to tell from the photo. I don't remember. And I'm on...
forum.ih8mud.com
Parts list
The canal boat
Swapped out the sketchy U-Haul, which was my only option on a holiday weekend, for a real trailer.
forum.ih8mud.com
Before you get one off ebay, make sure it's correct! For example, the Alloyworks one you posted a picture of above IS NOT CORRECT!
You can tell by the photos, here's an explanation of what it should look like after I bought an incorrect one and had to modify it:
forum.ih8mud.com
On the flip side, the modification if you have a TIG welder is fairly simple. It also helps a lot if you know this needs done ahead of time and can plan accordingly. You can also get AT versions, or at least I could this spring. However you only really need the radiator AT fluid path if you're in a cold climate, otherwise an aftermarket air-to-air alone is fine. I would go with one of these radiators again and simply have them modified by a TIG shop, the performance has been worth it.
You can tell by the photos, here's an explanation of what it should look like after I bought an incorrect one and had to modify it:
Ebay Aluminum Radiator
I just ordered an ASI Performance radiator off Ebay to replace my CSF. 4 core, ~2.5" thick, with transmission cooler, $300 delivered. The manual tranny version is 2.75" thick which would be better.....a thicker radiator with less cores is ideal to maximize surface area, but the 3 core versions...
forum.ih8mud.com
On the flip side, the modification if you have a TIG welder is fairly simple. It also helps a lot if you know this needs done ahead of time and can plan accordingly. You can also get AT versions, or at least I could this spring. However you only really need the radiator AT fluid path if you're in a cold climate, otherwise an aftermarket air-to-air alone is fine. I would go with one of these radiators again and simply have them modified by a TIG shop, the performance has been worth it.
I couldn't find one with the correct offsets, or if they had it I couldn't tell, so I ended up with the Alloyworks one I posted earlier. It does actually have the AT loop... I'll decide later whether I connect it or abandon it and go to an external AT cooler. It probably will be a two part process - install the radiator and use the AT loop, then later circle back and an external AT cooler. I don't tow anything, at least not yet, so AT temps aren't a huge concern for me right now.Before you get one off ebay, make sure it's correct! For example, the Alloyworks one you posted a picture of above IS NOT CORRECT!
You can tell by the photos, here's an explanation of what it should look like after I bought an incorrect one and had to modify it:
Ebay Aluminum Radiator
I just ordered an ASI Performance radiator off Ebay to replace my CSF. 4 core, ~2.5" thick, with transmission cooler, $300 delivered. The manual tranny version is 2.75" thick which would be better.....a thicker radiator with less cores is ideal to maximize surface area, but the 3 core versions...
On the flip side, the modification if you have a TIG welder is fairly simple. It also helps a lot if you know this needs done ahead of time and can plan accordingly. You can also get AT versions, or at least I could this spring. However you only really need the radiator AT fluid path if you're in a cold climate, otherwise an aftermarket air-to-air alone is fine. I would go with one of these radiators again and simply have them modified by a TIG shop, the performance has been worth it.
Do you happen to have measurements of how much offset you created front and rear for yours to be effectively a drop in solution? I'll take some measurements of the one I ordered after it arrives and compare it to the one currently installed. I'll decide later if I'm going to attempt to install unmodified or tweak it first, but even if I try a drop-in install it will help knowing there's a good possibility that it might not work and will need to go to metal shop first. It's an extra car, so if it sits in the garage w/o a radiator for a couple weeks, it won't be more than an annoyance.
I've heard the US 80s have an external AT cooler, but I recall their radiators had an AT loop. How was this set up? Were the external and main radiators in parallel so some AT fluid went to each? Or what I presume is more likely were they in series where AT fluid went through both? I assume the correct order would be through the external cooler first, then through the main radiator AT loop. If not, the main radiator wouldn't be as effective as an AT warmer in cold conditions. Since I live in Phoenix, cold conditions are way down my list of priorities, but I may as well set it up right in case I'm traveling in cold conditions or sell it to somebody who is.
What I'm saying is that you cannot drop that in without modification, the shroud won't sit properly to seal and it'll stick out wonky towards your fan on top and interfere as in my photos. Also I see a TON of radiators on their now that are definitely not even close to the right shape (more square than rectangle) so be careful.
I believe it was 10mm front offset but don't quote me. Don't remember rear, maybe it was the same? If you can have both old and new rad out at the same time then it's easy to take both to a shop and have them mod it up for you. The TIG welding that needs done is all on the thick side support pieces so not a sketchy thing.
Bottom side mounts didn't quite line up either, had to goof with some spacers but that was pretty simple comparatively. Basically get bolts in everything very loosely then slowly tighten.
You'll need some weather stripping to seal the shroud.
My other linked thread has the hose barbs that will thread onto this radiator. Aftermarket air-to-air first then into radiator. I would NOT recommend running without ANY external transmission cooling!!!! These trannys are hard to come by. Hooking the rad loop up is a lot easier than getting an air-to-air installed so if you don't have a A2A now then start with the rad loop and add on A2A later.
I believe it was 10mm front offset but don't quote me. Don't remember rear, maybe it was the same? If you can have both old and new rad out at the same time then it's easy to take both to a shop and have them mod it up for you. The TIG welding that needs done is all on the thick side support pieces so not a sketchy thing.
Bottom side mounts didn't quite line up either, had to goof with some spacers but that was pretty simple comparatively. Basically get bolts in everything very loosely then slowly tighten.
You'll need some weather stripping to seal the shroud.
My other linked thread has the hose barbs that will thread onto this radiator. Aftermarket air-to-air first then into radiator. I would NOT recommend running without ANY external transmission cooling!!!! These trannys are hard to come by. Hooking the rad loop up is a lot easier than getting an air-to-air installed so if you don't have a A2A now then start with the rad loop and add on A2A later.
I'm glad you clarified in case anyone else is paying attention. I may have worded it poorly, but my plan was always to either use only the ATF cooler loop on the aluminum eBay radiator or to ignore the radiator ATF loop and go instead to an external ATF cooler. There's some chance I'll do the belt and suspenders version and run the coolant thorough both, but since I don't do any towing, it might be overkill.
The aluminum eBay radiator I'm trying has this in it's specs for the AT loop.
Transmisson trans cooler: φ26*390*M14*1.0
Can anyone help translate this? I can't quite figure it out, at least not confidently enough to order it. I'm guessing from looking at the radiator images the male fittings on the radiator are 14mm x 1.0 thread, so I need fittings with a female M14x1.0 on one side and likely a 26mm outer diameter tube (basically 1"). I'm not sure what the 390 is... or maybe I only need to be concerned about the M14x1.0 portion and the rest is up to me to create the right nipples to connect to the AT hoses.
If I'm lucky this is all for nothing and the radiator will include fittings in the shipment. One of the problems with an eBay solution... highly likely extra work (and searching) required vs true drop in solutions.
edit: Mayne this is easier than I thought...
absolute-wits-end.com
Transmisson trans cooler: φ26*390*M14*1.0
Can anyone help translate this? I can't quite figure it out, at least not confidently enough to order it. I'm guessing from looking at the radiator images the male fittings on the radiator are 14mm x 1.0 thread, so I need fittings with a female M14x1.0 on one side and likely a 26mm outer diameter tube (basically 1"). I'm not sure what the 390 is... or maybe I only need to be concerned about the M14x1.0 portion and the rest is up to me to create the right nipples to connect to the AT hoses.
If I'm lucky this is all for nothing and the radiator will include fittings in the shipment. One of the problems with an eBay solution... highly likely extra work (and searching) required vs true drop in solutions.
edit: Mayne this is easier than I thought...
80 Series 1FZ Radiator Flare Nut Nipple Set for Transmission Hoses
80 Series 1FZ Radiator Flare Nut Nipple Set for Transmission Hoses (RFN-1)
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It won't include fittings, again see my post I linked to previously. My radiator had the same M14x1.0 thread and I ordered Toyota ones and they worked fine. Only the CSF come with the fittings brazed in I believe, everything else is thread-in.
Great feedback, and thank you. I'll try and pay it forward by documenting some of the crap I go through trying to make this one work. In the shorter term I might be able to discuss installation issues, but it would be quite some time before I could evaluate the performance of the radiator itself.
Can someone confirm if the 3fe radiators with part number 16400-61140 is direct fit on the hjd81 auto?
I purchased 16400-17031 new from Impex. It was delivered today.
Just ordered.
I went through Amayama. Impex kept giving me error problems, their website might be having issues.
Amayama was no bueno. Impex stopped giving me error problems and I ordered through them. Crossing fingers.
