90k Service, plus extra stuff while I am in there questions.

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I am about to do the timing belt/Water pump service on my 1999 with 315k on the clock. I am hopeful to see this one go over 400k. Everything on it is tight, and running strong, it's a testament to how well Toyota put these things together even my compression numbers are awesome.

I am ordering a a OE kit from Amazon with the Aisin parts, I also am going to knock out my heater T's and thermostat.

My questions:

  1. I have a little weeping of pink crust on my upper and lower radiator hoses. I can't think of a reason not to replace them at this point correct? New clamps too. Any one know of a good OEM source?
  2. What other hoses should I knock out while I am in there? Heater lines? the thermostat hose? oil filter cooler fitting and throttle body? Would you replace each of these?
  3. Should I replace the radiator cap?
  4. Is there a preferred brand of Toyota RED coolant?
Thanks in advance- my fj40 has a timing CHAIN... this is new water for me.
 
1 & 2: If you have the time, will, and $$ I would go ahead and replace all the rubber hoses if you can since you've got that many miles. Over the years the hot/cold temp changes have taken a toll on the OEM rubber; at the minimum replace the radiator hoses, heater tee's & hoses, and the PCV valve & hoses (something new I learned from @2001LC).

3. Replacing the radiator cap is a very good preventative step I would recommend it if you are still running with the OEM cap at 315k

4. I have always been under the impression that Toyota used Toyota brand Super Long Life Coolant in the 100s. I may be wrong here since I don't have my owners manual in front of me, but that is what I would run.

Good luck to you on your quest for 400k!
 
Replace all rubber hoses you can, rubber has a life span of 10yrs before it should be replaced.
Radiator caps are cheap, wouldnt hurt.
Here is a tip from a engine coolant sales rep...color does not matter as much as changing it on time does.
All modern coolants are going to be aluminum safe, thats all you need to worry about besides the mix ratio.
All engine coolants are compatible, just like motor oil, SAE set's a standard, as long as your fluid meets that standard you are fine. Without that standard we would be at the mercy of the dealership's.
I prefer the 50/50 pre-mixed, it's more expensive but it is idiot proof, I like idiot proof.
 
Don't know the condition of all your parts, but in addition to the kit from Amazon, you might want to consider replacing the fan bracket assembly w/pulley. I don't remember for sure, but I don't think the cost was all that much and it gives some piece of mind to think all the rotating bits up front are new.
 
2nd vote of confidence for the zerex Asian.
 
You'll find links in my signature that may aid you in what to look for. WhiteLady the 01 LX470 will most closely match the 89-02, but even Redbaron 07 & Snowy 06 have many of same issues to watch for. In Snowy I did post up the timing belt job. Even thou 06-07 are VVTi timing belt is the same more or less. Starting at about posts #127 Scored a 06 LC (untouched Jewell restoration) you'll see T-belt job. I like to start job with compression test which means pulling all spark plus, then finish job with new spark plugs. In this one I put coils back in by hand just to cover spark plug holes to protect from dirt, grim & fluids falling in as I've so many project I knew systems would be open an extended period of time. Keeping plugs out makes turning crank shaft easier during Timing belt procedure. Make sure you have the FSM before starting job and follow step by step. The FSM is missing one thing, I call it #1 sub cover, it's in two pieces. Seen in post #137 of Snowy. Don't forget to install #1 sub before fan bracket! Mice can get in a knock out Timing belt, we've seen Mickey Mouse do this in Mud no joke!

I use the Aisin T-belt kit with tensioner & Aisin Fan Bracket. It's believed this is same as OEM, just without Toyota stamp on parts or box. @cruiseroutfit has at dissent price and they're a supporting member of mud!
T-belt kit w-tensioner & fan bracket (3).webp

Replace fan bracket if old is no longer serviceable. I've seen last over 250K on some less than 90K on others. If any play felt in bearing, or oil coming from rear replace.
029.webp

Hoses on our rigs kept clean and in mild climates last a very long time. How long who knows. Just inspect for any swell, cracking or hardening and replace if no longer serviceable.

The four I fine need replacing most often are both PCV hoses and the two vacuum hoses from power steering post #148 Scored a 06 LC (untouched Jewell restoration)
003a.webp
This is stock photo of 03-05 IIRC
Hoses 03-05.webp


On the 98-02 a rubber grommet is holding in the PCV valve. It will last about as long as these hoses (~90K miles), so inspect for tightness. PVC valve itself can usually just be cleaned & tested, but cheapest of all parts to just go ahead and replace.
PCV.webp


Personally I never mix any fluids (brands). In 89-02 I only use distilled water and Toyota LL coolant (red) flushing at 30K miles or 2 year. I like 100% Red LL because after double flushing with 6 gallons of Distilled water, about one gallon of very diluted red remains in heater core and lines rear of heater tee's (fire wall). So after final drain of both sides block and radiator, I add one gallon of Toyota LL (Red) 100%. This yields a rich 50/50 mix in system. I then pre mix one gallon of Red & distilled water and top system. Then top after every 8 hour cool down until system self burps. This takes two or three cycles of bring to operating temp and allowing 8 hours to cool down.
 
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Are you going to utilize one of the documented procedures on IH8MUD to do the TB/WP task?
 
Are you going to utilize one of the documented procedures on IH8MUD to do the TB/WP task?

I use a combo of the FSM, any pics on Mud and good write ups before starting.

Thanks @2001LC for the great info!
 

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