Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps

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Both the VC120 and stock 80 vapor canisters are open to the atmosphere through the vent on the bottom.

Consider if your V8 system used a sealed tank system (which my 2004 flex-fuel 5.3 does, and the comment about having a pressure sensor is consistent with) or open to the atmosphere like the stock 80 system.

I do not see a purge cycle ever initiating if your system is open via a stock 80 or VC120 canister.

I mounted my GM canister under the body and T'd the pressure sensor off the vent line between the tank and canister.
 
The VC120 version I used does have the vent on top, and can be connected to a vent solenoid controlled by the ECM. GM Genuine Parts 215-153 (17113148)

Normally it has a cap, which can be removed, and a hose attached. Not shown is the Evap Purge Solenoid, which is on the motor.

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The VC120 version I used does have the vent on top, and can be connected to a vent solenoid controlled by the ECM. GM Genuine Parts 215-153 (17113148)
Top is same as I had.
Normally it has a cap, which can be removed, and a hose attached. Not shown is the Evap Purge Solenoid, which is on the motor.
Do you mean the cap on the bottom? I have taken that off to see what was there. There is about a 1/2 - 1" opening in the center. Some concentric rings presumably form a baffle effect. I first removed the under-cap when I installed it to my stock 80 years ago. Seeing that it was wide-open, I put some drain holes in the cap edges.
Last week after I removed the VC-120 from my stock 80 (my 5.3 LS is in @Longcruiser) and put back in a "rebuilt" OE canister I again removed the bottom cap of the VC120 and cut the canister open. Both OE and VC120 have filter material top and bottom to keep the charcoal in place. Up against the filer is a plate with holes. The OE has a large lightweight spring at the top presumably to keep the charcoal from rattling around. The VC 120 has a similar spring, just instead at the bottom.

With your setup are the evap cycles getting completed? That's what really maters, aye? Great if so! (On LongCruiser I did a similar T, using the OE GM canister I put under the truck. I have never dialed in my fuel level sensor so I have no evap cycle info to report on that truck.)
 
The problem I have is my harness doesn’t have wiring for a purge valve. I have thought about just hooking up a switched 12 volt wire to the solenoid and putting it on a timer so I will be in closed loop when it comes on. I’m just not knowledgeable enough to know if that would work.
 
Top is same as I had.

Do you mean the cap on the bottom? I have taken that off to see what was there. There is about a 1/2 - 1" opening in the center. Some concentric rings presumably form a baffle effect. I first removed the under-cap when I installed it to my stock 80 years ago. Seeing that it was wide-open, I put some drain holes in the cap edges.
Last week after I removed the VC-120 from my stock 80 (my 5.3 LS is in @Longcruiser) and put back in a "rebuilt" OE canister I again removed the bottom cap of the VC120 and cut the canister open. Both OE and VC120 have filter material top and bottom to keep the charcoal in place. Up against the filer is a plate with holes. The OE has a large lightweight spring at the top presumably to keep the charcoal from rattling around. The VC 120 has a similar spring, just instead at the bottom.

With your setup are the evap cycles getting completed? That's what really maters, aye? Great if so! (On LongCruiser I did a similar T, using the OE GM canister I put under the truck. I have never dialed in my fuel level sensor so I have no evap cycle info to report on that truck.)

No, mine has nothing on the bottom. There are three connections at the top: purge, tank vent, canister vent.

I still have to figure out fuel level sensor: Toyota -> GM. It is low priority at the moment.
 
Quick question. Did you guys get this one? My computer is a 2005. I need to get the one highlighted "Not Can" right? Thanks

View attachment 4117803
I have that on 2002 and 2003 Gen 3 engines. The first one I bought (in 2018) did not have a the capability to display trans temp. The more recent one I got does.
 
Quick question. Did you guys get this one? My computer is a 2005. I need to get the one highlighted "Not Can" right? Thanks

View attachment 4117803
those are "pre" programmed options. you can change the programming at a later date. that just tells the ultragauge what to expect over the OBD port. i'm going on memory, but as an example if there is a tank level sender, the UG can read fuel level to do the MPG calculations. there are likely others like trans temp, oil temp, fuel press...if there is a sensor and its being exposed via OBD.

i don't have one on a v8 swap, but on the 1FZ. i don't think there is any difference in the hardware. i have mine sitting right on top of the steering column so i can see coolant temps, speedo, etc at a quick glance. only blocks the PWR light.
 
Would you mind posting a picture of the Tundra muffler in there and maybe a video of it running? I have to come up with a quieter exhaust. Currently I just have the Magnaflow 2in1 18” with no resonators or cats and it is waaaay too loud. I appreciate it if you do.
I ran a tundra muffler on mine for a while. Made it really quiet. But like others say, it’s very very tight fit. In the end I changed it out to a borla muffler with some vibrant resonators. Love the way it sounds now and no drone.
 

Anyone used one of these for the oil pressure sensor? I’m getting closer on mine, intake piping, gas pedal, and wiring left.
 
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Anyone used one of these for the oil pressure sensor? I’m getting closer on mine, intake piping, gas pedal, and wiring left.
That’s terrible. Wayyyy too much going on there. Unless you want to run the LS oil pressure sensor (not necessary) you could buy an oil pressure block off plug and drill and tap it for the stock toyota sensor.

…Or hit the easy button and order one from @cruisermatt

 
@Filo Bedo

I’d go ahead and get this from him as well if you haven’t already addressed the engine temp sensor:

 
@Filo Bedo

I’d go ahead and get this from him as well if you haven’t already addressed the engine temp sensor:

I grabbed the temp sensor from Matt last year. I’ve read conflicting things about whether you need the stock LS sensor or not. Someone on here had a similar setup using both the LS and the LC sensor but it used a bango bolt setup. Out of Australia I believe. I’m sure the shipping would be atrocious.
 
I grabbed the temp sensor from Matt last year. I’ve read conflicting things about whether you need the stock LS sensor or not. Someone on here had a similar setup using both the LS and the LC sensor but it used a bango bolt setup. Out of Australia I believe. I’m sure the shipping would be atrocious.
You’ve got two cylinder heads, so put the LS sensor in one side and the LC sensor in the other. I’m running a third sensor for an aftermarket temp gauge since the stock one is kind of worthless. Drilled and tapped into the water pump for that one.

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I grabbed the temp sensor from Matt last year. I’ve read conflicting things about whether you need the stock LS sensor or not. Someone on here had a similar setup using both the LS and the LC sensor but it used a bango bolt setup. Out of Australia I believe. I’m sure the shipping would be atrocious.
You must be talking about this:


What engine/gen are you running?
 
5000 miles damn where did ya go .

MA <-> Moab, UT

First real test of the truck.

The LS side of things performed flawlessly...14.8 mpg when I wasn't doing >80 mph. 😁

The Toyota side though...I had a no start about 2,000 miles in. Luckily, the LS engine only needs ignition start to run, which I easily got around.

My partial fix for ride home until I could fix it proper...

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