89 FJ62 with high mileage: What to look for?

[Odeon]

Hi all, reader of the forum, but first time posting here. I'm in talks with an owner of an '89 FJ-62 right now for under 5k for my first 60-series purchase. Things mostly check out and look good to me — the car is in tight shape, minimal to no rust, and appears to have been maintained well over the years. Mileage is ~278k on the odo which is on the high-end IMO. Although, because of locations (opposite corners of america), we are arranging for the car to be shipped through a company, in which I won't have the first chance for routine inspection and drive in before it gets here (although thankfully enough can return if need be). This leaves me more cautious than normal.

Is there anything I should be weary of or looking for here? I'm aware at this mileage, it might need a transmission swap soon or in the next 10–20k of miles. Anything else worth looking into beforehand? Any and all input appreciated, with a few pics included (what a beaut, can't wait to break this rig in more, all things going well).

 

[IslandJ]

That looks like a great deal for 5k.

 

[morganism]

grab it, that clean an undercarrige is a keeper...

 

[bottombracket]

Hurry. Buy that immediately- that's a GREAT deal.

 

[Odeon]

I guess I should clarify that the deal is in-progress! I'm more concerned with what to look for when it gets here and in the first 10–20k of driving miles on my end.

 

[morganism]

Only thing you prob need to worry about is any grinding or thunking when turning corners.

Will prob run fab for the next 50k

 

[landcruiserjunky]

The undercarriage looks like it was painted, check for bubbles on the 1/4 panels and tailgate and the wheel wells (on the inside) behind the passenger seat. 62s trannys fail commonly, make sure its shifts well.

 

[Tennessee80]

I’ve got 313,000 on my 62. Runs like a top. Mileage is a non issue if the truck is clean and has been mechanically maintained.

 

[kmj64]

you should consider going to 5 speed transmission - I did on my 1990 fj62 and love it

 

[EscapeWagon62]

Great find...jealous that you got it that cheap.
Things I found on my 88 FJ62 with 228k. I had never wrenched on a car before a year and a half ago. This site got me through every repair.
- buy a factory service manual. Nobody loves your rig as much as you, don’t let them touch it.
- look for rust and remediate. It won’t go away. Rockers, quarter panels, A pillars, rain gutters on roof
- my gauges not accurate for temp or oil. Easily fixed with temp sensor and oil sending unit. Easy work. Of the temp sensor and sender unit aren’t working properly the engine will get hot but the computer thinks it’s cols which affects idle speed.
- getting the idle set correctly is an adventure. Set your timing and then read threads on vacuum leaks and recalibration your throttle position sensor.
- replace your EGR valve (cheap part, get oem with gasket)
- if you don’t know when the thermostat was last changed, change it. Belts too.
- if your shifter is wobbly you need new shifter grommets. Easy to find and replace.
- if your windows roll up too slow pull the door panels, clean and lube everything and spray dry silicone in the window tracks. While you are at it, lube up your power door locks.
- if you have a thunk/clunk when turning into your driveway, pull the telescoping part of your steering column (wrong name for this, it’s the part inside the engine bay and can be disconnected easily at the splines near the front of the truck, it’s covered by a shield). Pull it out and put grease on it and reinsert. It quieted down my steering.
- if your steering is loose you can tighten up your drag link ends and tie rods. If the wheel still has play you can turn an adjusting nut on your steering box (a little goes a long way)
- change your trans fluid and add a trans cooler. A440f trans will last a long time if not over heated
- if your transmission is shifting into the next gear too early or too late, adjust your kick down cable. Plenty of threads on this.
- if your steering wheelvinyl is separated from the steel ring behind it, buy some hypodermic syringes and inject gorilla glue in there.
- the brakes on these work reasonably well, if yours don’t...adjust rear brake shoes, bleed everything including the LSPV valve. The LSPV valve also determines your front vs rear brake pressure, these can be fidddly...read threads before adjusting.
- A/C units in these trucks should blow ice cold even if converted to R134. If your doesn’t bring it to a reputable show and have them recharge and balance hig and low side pressure (the only thing I’ve let someone else do)
- if you have weeping near your front brake calipers it’s likely a leaking inner axle seal in your steering knuckle. It’s a $7 part but you have to disassemble the whole knuckle to get to it.
- if your wheels have rust spray with PB blaster and rub with crumpled aluminum foil.
- if your windshield wiper won’t return home or work on intermittent (it runs at low speed vs intermittent)....you need a new wiper motor
- if you need new seat covers or cushions go to sor.com
- if you need carper look for @dnp on this forum. Solid stuff. While the carpet is out...put sound deadening mat in. It makes a huge difference.
- other than basic maintenance those are the things I’ve had to do.

 

[Ocho77]

It looks super clean. Drive it, enjoy it; if something breaks, fix it.

 

[FJACS]

Looks good for 5k

Where in NY? Lots of great roads to explore upstate.

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, Nice find. Check for service records . Check fluids. Drive it. Mike

 

[Odeon]

Wow, thanks for the comprehensive list here — this is good stuff. I may DM you sometime here or there about some of these specifics? Have you done an LED Dash light swap? Barring more significant mechanical projects, that and the sound deadening mat are at the forefront of my project list. Progress to share on here with everyone ahead.

Great find...jealous that you got it that cheap.
Things I found on my 88 FJ62 with 228k. I had never wrenched on a car before a year and a half ago. This site got me through every repair.
- buy a factory service manual. Nobody loves your rig as much as you, don’t let them touch it.
- look for rust and remediate. It won’t go away. Rockers, quarter panels, A pillars, rain gutters on roof
- my gauges not accurate for temp or oil. Easily fixed with temp sensor and oil sending unit. Easy work. Of the temp sensor and sender unit aren’t working properly the engine will get hot but the computer thinks it’s cols which affects idle speed.
- getting the idle set correctly is an adventure. Set your timing and then read threads on vacuum leaks and recalibration your throttle position sensor.
- replace your EGR valve (cheap part, get oem with gasket)
- if you don’t know when the thermostat was last changed, change it. Belts too.
- if your shifter is wobbly you need new shifter grommets. Easy to find and replace.
- if your windows roll up too slow pull the door panels, clean and lube everything and spray dry silicone in the window tracks. While you are at it, lube up your power door locks.
- if you have a thunk/clunk when turning into your driveway, pull the telescoping part of your steering column (wrong name for this, it’s the part inside the engine bay and can be disconnected easily at the splines near the front of the truck, it’s covered by a shield). Pull it out and put grease on it and reinsert. It quieted down my steering.
- if your steering is loose you can tighten up your drag link ends and tie rods. If the wheel still has play you can turn an adjusting nut on your steering box (a little goes a long way)
- change your trans fluid and add a trans cooler. A440f trans will last a long time if not over heated
- if your transmission is shifting into the next gear too early or too late, adjust your kick down cable. Plenty of threads on this.
- if your steering wheelvinyl is separated from the steel ring behind it, buy some hypodermic syringes and inject gorilla glue in there.
- the brakes on these work reasonably well, if yours don’t...adjust rear brake shoes, bleed everything including the LSPV valve. The LSPV valve also determines your front vs rear brake pressure, these can be fidddly...read threads before adjusting.
- A/C units in these trucks should blow ice cold even if converted to R134. If your doesn’t bring it to a reputable show and have them recharge and balance hig and low side pressure (the only thing I’ve let someone else do)
- if you have weeping near your front brake calipers it’s likely a leaking inner axle seal in your steering knuckle. It’s a $7 part but you have to disassemble the whole knuckle to get to it.
- if your wheels have rust spray with PB blaster and rub with crumpled aluminum foil.
- if your windshield wiper won’t return home or work on intermittent (it runs at low speed vs intermittent)....you need a new wiper motor
- if you need new seat covers or cushions go to sor.com
- if you need carper look for @dnp on this forum. Solid stuff. While the carpet is out...put sound deadening mat in. It makes a huge difference.
- other than basic maintenance those are the things I’ve had to do.

 

[Odeon]

I've read into some of the pro's of this. What are the advantages to this over the transmission that comes stock?

you should consider going to 5 speed transmission - I did on my 1990 fj62 and love it

 

[EscapeWagon62]

Wow, thanks for the comprehensive list here — this is good stuff. I may DM you sometime here or there about some of these specifics? Have you done an LED Dash light swap? Barring more significant mechanical projects, that and the sound deadening mat are at the forefront of my project list. Progress to share on here with everyone ahead.

Reach out anytime.
I have not done an LED swap but my wife wants better headlights. I’m trying to keep mine looking as stock as possible. I use LED bulbs in back and it makes it much more visible. Put in a Old Man Emu based “grocery getter” leaf spring kit from SOR.com (stock ride height and really comfortable on the road) and tinted the windows all the way around (including windshield). Now she does t look like a bobble head in the passenger seat and her right arm doesn’t burn

 

[morganism]

Don't touch anything on the wiring harness for a full year, you will piss off the electric gnomes.
LED R cool, but resistance issues, and switched negative systems can cause major wiring melts and rebuilds.
These arn't jeeps.

Taking apart dash on these is a MAJOR project, save it for when you have to fix the heater core.

Stick with mechanical first year, and get to know the trucks hiccups, then decide what you want to change, or upgrade.

 

[NearJetties]

Reach out anytime.
I have not done an LED swap but my wife wants better headlights. I’m trying to keep mine looking as stock as possible. I use LED bulbs in back and it makes it much more visible. Put in a Old Man Emu based “grocery getter” leaf spring kit from SOR.com (stock ride height and really comfortable on the road) and tinted the windows all the way around (including windshield). Now she does t look like a bobble head in the passenger seat and her right arm doesn’t burn

Just did this, huge improvement and looks stock.

Installation Guide for ARB Headlight Harness and Hella H1/H4s

 

[NearJetties]

Also, buy this! Body, paint, undercarriage in that condition is worth 5k.

 

[rrv333]

Are you aware of it's maintenance history? If not, I'd baseline it as soon as it's rolled off the trailer. Lot's of threads on how to do the baselining. These trucks will run way outside what is considered "normal" for everyday vehicles. After the baseline, drive it and enjoy.