87 4Runner random stall and no start (1 Viewer)

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I don’t have training to read a schematic. Best I can tell, AM1 runs through the ignition switch and goes through the neutral start switch to the starter on one page. On another it goes to heater relays, dome light, stop, taillight relay and power door locks/power windows.

I recently added a led license plate light to the passenger rear tail but it never worked. Took it off and bench tested it and it worked. Might leave it off for now.

Removed the dome with my daughter and I could not get continuity in the LED in with the multimeter hooking it up either way. Is that a way to test it?

Power windows and locks quit recently. Previous owner used to remove doors so I wanna check this out to see if there’s a problem. Wondering if the harness that goes into the body from the doors has a plug I can get to easily to check.
 
Sounds to me like you're reading the schematic. There is usually several pages of abbreviations and wiring colour codes to get used to as well. Sometimes the hardest part is physically locating the various things on the truck.
 
I’m not sure what it means when two black lines cross each other. Does that mean they’re connected or is it just the way they draw the schematic on the two different circuits?
 
I’m not sure what it means when two black lines cross each other. Does that mean they’re connected or is it just the way they draw the schematic on the two different circuits?
If they cross without a dot they are not connected. If they cross or connect with a dot, they are connected.
 
the only circuits big enough to break that fuse and nothing else are the ignition switch, starter circuit or some kind of direct short prior to the other fuses boxes.

have you had the starter out or tried a different one?
 
I replaced the ignition switch and starter contacts a while back. I rebuilt the neutral safety switch which was really only cleaning the hardened stick grease out, polishing the brass and new diametric grease.
 
just because you touched those pieces, doesn't mean there isn't something going on in a connection or the length of wire somewhere.
 
Somebody told me that sometimes the old fuses like this just break but I have a tough time thinking that's the case. Wanting to check out some things first.
 
the only circuits big enough to break that fuse and nothing else are the ignition switch, starter circuit or some kind of direct short prior to the other fuses boxes.

have you had the starter out or tried a different one?
Just went out and tried to use my manual starter button and it didn't work. Checked it with my ohm meter and switch bad. Grabbed a scrap of amp ground to jump the starter that way and got a big spark and smoke coming out of the starter. It looks like this fried my tool and may be the issue. Gonna swap it with another I have. Thanks for the tip!
 
Just went out and tried to use my manual starter button and it didn't work. Checked it with my ohm meter and switch bad. Grabbed a scrap of amp ground to jump the starter that way and got a big spark and smoke coming out of the starter. It looks like this fried my tool and may be the issue. Gonna swap it with another I have. Thanks for the tip!
kinda my thing. glad to help.
 
Replaced starter and all is well....
 
Winter has proven tough for starts. From 0-20 degrees it may or may not start. Below 0 forget it.

So, I noticed some of the sensors plastic connectors are loose with tight terminals but test ok. Another has both a loose housing and terminal. I wonder if these can work intermittently.

Next is to try and test the cold start injector..

How does your 22RE start in 20 below?
 
So that one has a loose connector housing in the sensor but tight terminals. It tests good. I might replace it anyway since I’m wondering if it is working intermittently with the loose housing.
 
Anyone know how to get the connector for Temperature Sensor #2?

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