- Thread starter
- #2,001
Thanks guys. For your expert opinions as well.
Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter aztoyman
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #2,002
I pulled the scoop today to get a look at the opening with the hood closed. The 3/4" flange I bent 90 degrees isn't going to work. It is a knife edge hanging down on top of the MAF sensor, throttle cable and the brake booster hose. Yeah I can rotate the sensor and tie back the hose and cable but I decided to just roll the edge over completely. It looks cleaner too.
This aftermarket hood started out really rough and rusty but it isn't going to take much to make it look good. I hammered out all the dents I could get behind. The ones I can't will get a little filler.
This aftermarket hood started out really rough and rusty but it isn't going to take much to make it look good. I hammered out all the dents I could get behind. The ones I can't will get a little filler.
- Thread starter
- #2,003
The wiring got delivered yesterday but I had two grandkids that were graduating (kindergarten) so I had other places to be. Today I got back on the wiring.
I had mounted that small fuse block and after looking at the only two circuits I really needed to hook up, removed it. One circuit is for the Koito headlight upgrade kit and the other is for my light bar. I decided to just hook the two power wires and two grounds to the battery posts and let the loose wiring just lay under the panel. The two Koito relays are on the passenger side fender well. I straightened the bracket for the light bar relay and there just happened to be a bolt hole in the right spot so there it went.
I had mounted that small fuse block and after looking at the only two circuits I really needed to hook up, removed it. One circuit is for the Koito headlight upgrade kit and the other is for my light bar. I decided to just hook the two power wires and two grounds to the battery posts and let the loose wiring just lay under the panel. The two Koito relays are on the passenger side fender well. I straightened the bracket for the light bar relay and there just happened to be a bolt hole in the right spot so there it went.
- Thread starter
- #2,004
Here's what it look like flopped over for all the cable hook ups. Kind of a cluster with the little stuff but not too bad really. The top side is nice and clean. You can see the new ground cable to body mount back there.
- Thread starter
- #2,005
I ran a new 2 AWG starter cable. I would have liked to have re-used the plastic guide that clips the cable around the front of the oil pan but it crumbled apart.
To secure the cable I cut the heads off a couple long M6 bolts to use as a stud. I pulled two oil pan bolts, threaded the studs in and tightened two flange nuts down on the pan. That was perfect spacing to let me slide a couple Adel clamps down over the studs and secure my starter cable. Just used a 2nd nut on each stud. I need to add some chafe guard to my cables in a couple places and that has been ordered.
To secure the cable I cut the heads off a couple long M6 bolts to use as a stud. I pulled two oil pan bolts, threaded the studs in and tightened two flange nuts down on the pan. That was perfect spacing to let me slide a couple Adel clamps down over the studs and secure my starter cable. Just used a 2nd nut on each stud. I need to add some chafe guard to my cables in a couple places and that has been ordered.
- Thread starter
- #2,006
New 2 AWG block to battery and block to frame cables.
- Thread starter
- #2,007
I need to get some kind of connector for my winch power solenoid. I don't want to just use butt connectors or solder.
- Thread starter
- #2,008
It came out fairly clean for the size and amount of cable connections in that area. I hooked up the cables to the battery and fired the truck up for the first time WITHOUT jumper cables hanging through the windshield frame to the engine.
By the way, NO air blows out the hood opening (closed hood) even with the cold start high idle. It all goes out the fender wells.
By the way, NO air blows out the hood opening (closed hood) even with the cold start high idle. It all goes out the fender wells.
hook up a metripac or something.
no. pretty sure you can grab them at crappa.
- Thread starter
- #2,012
I just HAD to wire up the winch power solenoid and test the winch. Until I get a connector I temporarily hooked up the switch and solenoid.
The switch that came with the solenoid is a momentary type with a sliding cover over half of it. Slide the cover down to see the ON position. You can push it and hear a solid click of the solenoid. The switch lights up in the ON position.
Slide the cover up and you can see the OFF position. The light does not go off until you push the switch and again you hear the solid click of the solenoid. If the light is on you did NOT shut off your winch.
My winch hauls ass with the 9.5 XP motor, fat cables and no load.
Time to pull the bumper and finish it.
The switch that came with the solenoid is a momentary type with a sliding cover over half of it. Slide the cover down to see the ON position. You can push it and hear a solid click of the solenoid. The switch lights up in the ON position.
Slide the cover up and you can see the OFF position. The light does not go off until you push the switch and again you hear the solid click of the solenoid. If the light is on you did NOT shut off your winch.
My winch hauls ass with the 9.5 XP motor, fat cables and no load.
Time to pull the bumper and finish it.
Nice switch, I like a in cab winch controller!
