Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (5 Viewers)

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Well on fiberglass boats where it's used a lot, it will tear the glass or wood off before it comes loose. I've had to razor knife it off gradually and then clean off what's left. I never knew a heat gun would have made it easier.

We've had a bunch of Toyota trucks over the years and the bond on the hood braces failed fairly early on every one of them. This is the first time I did anything about it though.

The proper product to use isn't THAT expensive. I am THAT cheap at times though.
 
It's not like a heat gun suddenly makes it completely let go, it just makes it easier to get loose.
 
If you can't get a knife or razor blade in there a guitar string works great as well to cut it. I've removed many a boat window frame this way.
 
IDK if it will last, but my hood sounds more solid when I close it. It FEELS more substantial and I doubt the outer skin will visibly move in the changing air currents as I drive anymore. 👍
 
I'm still undecided about the scoop. It would probably add to the strength... maybe.

Since I'm cheap I might just leave the hole. I think that indicates that I'm a hardcore wheeler too. 😉
 
Since I'm cheap I might just leave the hole.
You keep saying that
In reality there’s nothing cheap about this hobby or your build !
 
There's definitely a lot of money in this but I scrounge, swap, part out, catch sales and trade labor to pay for it all. No credit card used at all. Well, my debit card. Everything is paid in full as I go. My fixed income reality.
 
There's definitely a lot of money in this but I scrounge, swap, part out, catch sales and trade labor to pay for it all. No credit card used at all. Well, my debit card. Everything is paid in full as I go. My fixed income reality.
Makes you smart not cheap !!!

What you have described it how I have lived my life.
Credit is evil.
 
Happy New Year everyone. I got to pick at this here and there, got some things figured out and it looks like my Toyota sale parts have been shipped. Gotta have pics with the post so here's a few at least.

I figured out how to get a shock tower brace in. I wanted as low as possible, removable is a given, narrow as possible so I could find a scoop wide enough to cover the hole in the hood and have room to get my brake booster off. Remember what I went through with that?

These Cobra shock towers are 1/4" but the area I'm using is an open ladder like structure. I just added two pieces of 1/4" to give a sound attachment point to weld to.

Before I wasted any DOM tube I estimated the angle and under bent a piece of scrap HREW. I got the angle dialed in then the hose on my bender blew.

My wife's FJ Cruiser needs some suspension work so maybe my next post will be in that section of the forum?

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Just got tires on her FJC and I need to rebuild the UCA's and install the Icon coilovers I got for FREE. Also have an Eimkeith bracket to raise the rear track bar on the way I'll need to weld in.

I replaced the hose on my bender but I need to buy more tube and I can't let my wife's new tires get destroyed by worn out upper ball joints.

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I'm not convinced that the tube over the top is going to do much for you. If it could be straight or only had small angle bends in it that would be different. With the bends necessary the tube itself is going to be pretty flexible.
 
@ntsqd I wondered about that and thought this "might" be better than nothing? No way for it to be straight across unless I put stilts up through the hood. How about thicker wall tube?
 
The problem that I see is the degree of bend combined with the length of tube btwn the coupler and the bend.

Thicker wall, or better, larger OD tube will make it stiffer.

I don't think that there is a good solution. If you had a simple way to attach say a 10' lever arm to the tower could then do some simple tests, but that's the enginerd in me wanting to quantify things. Having it in place will make the structure stiffer than without it, I'm just not sure that gain is worth the pain.
How far forward would going across in front of the intake, more or less over the taming cover, place the tube? Can we see a side shot?
 
If I can minimize the movement enough to prevent a problem with the steering shaft through the shock tower, I'll be happy. If I was jumping hoops through the desert, this would be a LOT different of a build.
 
I'm not convinced that the tube over the top is going to do much for you. If it could be straight or only had small angle bends in it that would be different. With the bends necessary the tube itself is going to be pretty flexible.
^^^^ this
 

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