Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (4 Viewers)

[aztoyman]

@Broski I'm with you on the finished full bumper look. I'll decide soon either way.

 

[Broski]

Thanks @Broski . And I see @gnob is still with me. Merry Christmas to all the Mudders!

Right back at you !
May you and your family enjoy the holidays

 

[gnob]

mount looks good.
only so much you can really do with the 8274.
i trimmed mine down more for style points than airflow since the drum and rope ultimately occupy that same space

 

[aztoyman]

I've saved it before on a couple close call back flips but I've had a couple Jeeps in the group go over. He would have been able to drive it back if he had a bar to protect his radiator.

 

[gnob]

merry Christmas brother.

 

[aztoyman]

HEY gnob! Exactly what I had in mind. Thanks for the pic.

 

[gnob]

HEY gnob! Exactly what I had in mind. Thanks for the pic.

you could maybe do some speed holes in your "wing" sections too.

 

[aztoyman]

Who doesn't like speed holes!!

 

[aztoyman]

Re-bonding my hood bracing to the skin took more time than I ever expected. I used some Baddass 3M 5200. The problem was that it is moisture curing and takes a week to cure...... WITH moisture and I'm in AZ.

It was tougher than I expected to position it as well. Either the brace would sag away from the hood or the hood skin would oil can. I finally put it upside down on some towels on top of a table. Then piled bricks on just the right places and left it outside for two weeks. I sprayed it with water several times a day too.

It's solid now at least. I guess it shouldn't buzz when I start cutting the hole bigger.

 

[Mudder]

An 8274 just looks right on these rigs. I wish I had gone that route over the 9.5ti.

 

[aztoyman]

They are a big hunk of winch for sure. I thought having 150 feet of cable (at the time) was a benefit where I live since there's not many trees in the desert to winch from.

 

[Mudder]

They are a big hunk of winch for sure. I thought having 150 feet of cable (at the time) was a benefit where I live since there's not many trees in the desert to winch from.

I upgrade winch line size so I could only fit 100’ on the 9.5TI I’m running. I plan on ordering some 25’ and 50’ extensions to keep in the truck.

 

[aztoyman]

A friend of mine gave me 100 feet of 3/8" Master Pull Super Line XD for doing a bunch of work on his RZR. I'll be picking up an extension line to add to my recovery kit. I still have mainly old school shackles and snatch blocks so I probably need to look at a few upgrades.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

Re-bonding my hood bracing to the skin took more time than I ever expected. I used some Baddass 3M 5200. The problem was that it is moisture curing and takes a week to cure...... WITH moisture and I'm in AZ.

It was tougher than I expected to position it as well. Either the brace would sag away from the hood or the hood skin would oil can. I finally put it upside down on some towels on top of a table. Then piled bricks on just the right places and left it outside for two weeks. I sprayed it with water several times a day too.

It's solid now at least. I guess it shouldn't buzz when I start cutting the hole bigger.

View attachment 3799833

I used 5200 to glue mine back together as well. Let the hood sit upside down overnight on some saw horses. Used 10-20 lbs weighs strategically placed to keep it pressed after application. Pretty sure cleaning, sanding and then recleaning before application is the secret to success.


Being in the southeast I have an excess of humidity which is the catalyst to 4200 and 5200.
My TDI engine and eBay 22re mounts provide more vibration than most gas engines. 2 years and counting as a daily driver she's still holding tight.

 

[aztoyman]

I'm glad to get a confirmation that it will hold long term. (It sure works on my boat) The entire center of my hood bracing has been cut out to clear my 3.4. The hole will probably be enlarged. Depends on how low I can keep the shock tower brace.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

My issue with 5200 is usually that it works too well. If you glue something down with it, ensure it's something you never want coming back off.

 

[ntsqd]

I've found that a good heat gun loosens it enough to get it loose. Unless what you're trying to get loose is fragile to start with. In that case 5200 is the wrong choice.

I am intrigued by the use of 5200 for this application. It's not one that I'd have thought to use, but I think that it should do well there.

 

[aztoyman]

I used it because I'm too cheap to buy panel bond for this build and I had it left over from my boat.

Whatever Toyota used didn't last long. I know this is from 1986 but ALL of my old Toyota trucks hood braces popped loose early on in their lives. Maybe the AZ heat?

Good to know about the heat gun.

 

[ntsqd]

I'm under the impression that panel bond isn't inexpensive, but I've not had cause to look into it. I *think* Patch's hood ('84) was still mostly bonded, but I know that some had popped loose. The 4rnnr's hood ('88) was still all bonded when I sold it early Fall.

The guys on a pop-top camper forum treat 5200 like a lot of people treat Red Lock-tite and consider something assembled with either to be an "Inseparable Assembly". Not true, and both can be made to let go but fragile assemblies are no place for either. High localized heats works in both cases. It will be interesting to see if the AZ heat combined with the under-hood heat does anything to it. Should be an 'acid test' for sure.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

The adhesive rating of 5200 on stainless steel is nearly 200 psi. I've never had it fail unless exposed to UV...for many many years.

I don't see heat being an issue...based on the amount of starboard mounted transom transducers and bilge pumps running all over southern Florida for the past few decades.