Nice work 
Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (7 Viewers)
- Thread starter aztoyman
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- Thread starter
- #82
Thanks Broski, hopefully I'll get back on it tomorrow. Going to pressure wash the sludge off the trans and cases. Then get them installed temporarily with the TG skid plate so I can fabricate motor mounts and a different style cross member since I need the old mount bolt holes for the lower link brackets.
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- #83
I got it cleaned up and together. Pulled the triple shifters off for a lower profile.
Davez triple shifters have been worked hard over the years. I'm going to work on tightening up the slack before I'm done. On the back burner for now though.
Davez triple shifters have been worked hard over the years. I'm going to work on tightening up the slack before I'm done. On the back burner for now though.
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- #84
It was still too tall to get it under the truck so I had to get some lumber on top of the stands. I'm by myself and don't want to get hurt so kind of slow going.
So I got it almost in position. I haven't cut the trans tunnel yet so I have it hanging on long bolts for now.
You can see how far forward my trans shifter is and I'm pointing to the rear case where it hits the floor.
So moving to the rear would help my trans shifter position but make the rear case worse. Plus I have the exhaust crossover at the firewall to contend with. You can see why I have to do some mockup before permanently mounting anything.
I had to pull the lumber off the stands once I got it in place because I can't pick the engine high enough to get over the radiator support.
Before I attempt to drop in the engine I need some motor mounts so I started to fab up a set. I'm going to try to tack weld them to some angle so I can hopefully support the engine yet allow me to shift it back and forth on the frame rails until I decide on it's final location. Hopefully I'll finish them tomorrow and get the engine set.
I have a lot of mock up. In addition to what I already mentioned I have to consider hood clearance and suspension clearance to the oil pan.
So I got it almost in position. I haven't cut the trans tunnel yet so I have it hanging on long bolts for now.
You can see how far forward my trans shifter is and I'm pointing to the rear case where it hits the floor.
So moving to the rear would help my trans shifter position but make the rear case worse. Plus I have the exhaust crossover at the firewall to contend with. You can see why I have to do some mockup before permanently mounting anything.
I had to pull the lumber off the stands once I got it in place because I can't pick the engine high enough to get over the radiator support.
Before I attempt to drop in the engine I need some motor mounts so I started to fab up a set. I'm going to try to tack weld them to some angle so I can hopefully support the engine yet allow me to shift it back and forth on the frame rails until I decide on it's final location. Hopefully I'll finish them tomorrow and get the engine set.
I have a lot of mock up. In addition to what I already mentioned I have to consider hood clearance and suspension clearance to the oil pan.
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- #85
So a fairly productive day and then the brown truck stops in front of my house and delivers this. Woohoo!
I have everything for the front 3 link except the springs. I need to get busy!
I have everything for the front 3 link except the springs. I need to get busy!
- Thread starter
- #86
Finished the motor mount plates and bolted them to the engine so I could install it.
A bit sketchy doing this on a sloped driveway.
A bit sketchy doing this on a sloped driveway.
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- #87
A bracket on the firewall was hitting the exhaust manifold so it had to come out. I didn't realize it until it was almost in. Pretty tight getting in there to drill the spot welds. That's a 3.4 swap tip. I think it's for the clutch slave cylinder hose.
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- Thread starter
- #88
I had to "rough in" my trans tunnel cuts or there is no way to bolt up the transmission. I'll pretty it up and make a cover another time.
Had to drill out spot welds and remove this bracket as well.
Had to drill out spot welds and remove this bracket as well.
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- #89
I just stuck a couple large bolts between the motor mounts and the frame to hold it temporarily. My next step is to install the hood and raise the engine as close to the hood as possible. I'll tack the mounts until I verify suspension to oil pan clearance.
If needed I'll cut the hood and raise the engine higher.
I also have to fabricate a new crossmember. I have some spare T-case parts to use as a pattern.
If needed I'll cut the hood and raise the engine higher.
I also have to fabricate a new crossmember. I have some spare T-case parts to use as a pattern.
- Thread starter
- #90
I wasn't able to work on the truck Saturday. Today I got the fenders and hood on well enough to check clearance. I raised the engine until it started to move the hood. Lowered it a hair on to a couple blocks of 2x4.
I supported the rear of the 2nd T-case on a stand until I decide on a mount.
Removed the TG skidplate crossmember and bolted up the lower link brackets. Positioned the axle housing under the truck and attached the links just to see where I'm at.
Obviously I need to shorten the links. I'll get some PVC pipe for mockup. Right now it's almost at max up travel (both sides) and darn close to my oil pan. I might be cutting the hood and raising the engine more. Maybe not? The links are only a finger width away from the bottom of the frame. I'm not cutting anything yet though. I need to get the knuckles and spindles mocked up so I can get tires in the wheel wells. Steering linkage needs to go on as well.
My mission for tomorrow.
I supported the rear of the 2nd T-case on a stand until I decide on a mount.
Removed the TG skidplate crossmember and bolted up the lower link brackets. Positioned the axle housing under the truck and attached the links just to see where I'm at.
Obviously I need to shorten the links. I'll get some PVC pipe for mockup. Right now it's almost at max up travel (both sides) and darn close to my oil pan. I might be cutting the hood and raising the engine more. Maybe not? The links are only a finger width away from the bottom of the frame. I'm not cutting anything yet though. I need to get the knuckles and spindles mocked up so I can get tires in the wheel wells. Steering linkage needs to go on as well.
My mission for tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #92
I was thinking Gorilla glue. I'm actually moving slow. It's just that I have all day to plug away since I'm retired.
If I was younger and not so beat up I'd be even further along.
Thanks for the tip to prime my 2x4 mounts.
If I was younger and not so beat up I'd be even further along.
Thanks for the tip to prime my 2x4 mounts.
Now that I'm retired it takes me 4 time as long to get anything done 
no really
no really
- Thread starter
- #94
I pulled the knuckles off the 88 today. I JUST went through them recently so I knocked the trunnion bearing races out to put in the new axle housing. I was going to install the used OEM bearings in the 88 so I could put it back together with the stock parts I have. Unfortunately I can't find the old races. I have the bearings and no races. Must have thrown them out. Dang it. Now I have to buy new bearings for a truck I'm not keeping.
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- #95
I wiped down most of the grease so I can assemble the knuckles enough for mockup. The same shim packs worked on the 86's knuckles. I didn't install any seals since the final welding will damage them. No axles inside. Just enough for mockup and testing.
The 3 link instructions say to clearance the passenger side steering arm. It hits the bracket limiting steering. My steering stops were properly adjusted on the 88 so should be good or very close on this axle housing. It was about 3/8" shy of hitting the steering stop.
The 3 link instructions say to clearance the passenger side steering arm. It hits the bracket limiting steering. My steering stops were properly adjusted on the 88 so should be good or very close on this axle housing. It was about 3/8" shy of hitting the steering stop.
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- #96
I used my belt sander to put a smooth radius in it until I could hit the stop and not the bracket. I have maybe .020" clearance. Hopefully my steering arm holds up.
Can't imagine it being a problem considering how much beefier they are than stock still.
Nice build!
Looks like you are on the right track, but make sure you don't weld any of the brackets on before you do get the axle in and cycle for clearance. I have done 2 4wu front kits, both I had to change things slightly. On the IFS frame, I notched the frame on the passenger side for drag link clearance, that and a small notch in the oil pan were the only thing standing in the way of 1.5" more uptravel. That was with a 3rz swapped in, might be less clearance with the 3.4.
Whats your plan for the 88? looks like a nice truck too.
Looks like you are on the right track, but make sure you don't weld any of the brackets on before you do get the axle in and cycle for clearance. I have done 2 4wu front kits, both I had to change things slightly. On the IFS frame, I notched the frame on the passenger side for drag link clearance, that and a small notch in the oil pan were the only thing standing in the way of 1.5" more uptravel. That was with a 3rz swapped in, might be less clearance with the 3.4.
Whats your plan for the 88? looks like a nice truck too.
- Thread starter
- #99
I'm glad you chimed in. Since you've done a couple I definitely welcome your input. I'm sure I'll have some questions for you.
I have a LOT of things to check before I weld anything. So far just heavy tacks.
I am thinking about a notch for the drag link as well as oil pan mods if needed. It's going to be close. I have a little room to move the engine back but not much.
Looks like things are going to be close to the slave cylinder as well. I'll know soon.
The 88 IS a nice truck. Nicer than this one. My wife and I wanted an Xtra Cab and I wanted to start with a clean slate. I'm going to sell it or part it out I guess. I can't afford to keep it AND build this one. Plus I have no room for it.
I have a LOT of things to check before I weld anything. So far just heavy tacks.
I am thinking about a notch for the drag link as well as oil pan mods if needed. It's going to be close. I have a little room to move the engine back but not much.
Looks like things are going to be close to the slave cylinder as well. I'll know soon.
The 88 IS a nice truck. Nicer than this one. My wife and I wanted an Xtra Cab and I wanted to start with a clean slate. I'm going to sell it or part it out I guess. I can't afford to keep it AND build this one. Plus I have no room for it.
- Thread starter
- #100
I don't have any pics today. After pricing steel I decided to buy a FROR crossmember plate and the poly mount kit. I didn't get the entire crossmember and skid plate. Basically a builder kit. I get the main plate, the longer bolts and the mount bushings and hardware. I have enough steel on hand to fabricate the rest.
Even with the lower links up to the frame it looks like my oil pan clearance is fine. The drag link will hit the passenger frame rail that high up though so I may need to notch it. That will depend on IF my tires will even go that high in the wheel wells. To find that out I need some taller stands. The tall ones I need are under the 88. It's always something.
In order to flip my tie rod UNDER the steering arms I have a couple options. I can weld up the tapered holes, re drill and ream them from the bottom. I'd have to buy the reamer which is about $100 to my door.
Or I can get a Ruff Stuff (or others) 7/8" Heim tie rod kit and ream the holes to 3/4". I have that reamer for an almost press fit of the bolts.
I'm going to TRY to keep my TRE's. Mounting them under puts the tie rod REALLY close to the front of the diff though. Not sure if I'll have room for armor.
Even with the lower links up to the frame it looks like my oil pan clearance is fine. The drag link will hit the passenger frame rail that high up though so I may need to notch it. That will depend on IF my tires will even go that high in the wheel wells. To find that out I need some taller stands. The tall ones I need are under the 88. It's always something.
In order to flip my tie rod UNDER the steering arms I have a couple options. I can weld up the tapered holes, re drill and ream them from the bottom. I'd have to buy the reamer which is about $100 to my door.
Or I can get a Ruff Stuff (or others) 7/8" Heim tie rod kit and ream the holes to 3/4". I have that reamer for an almost press fit of the bolts.
I'm going to TRY to keep my TRE's. Mounting them under puts the tie rod REALLY close to the front of the diff though. Not sure if I'll have room for armor.
