Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (2 Viewers)

[Will Van]

Cool build and great work!

I’d love to see details on your 5VZ-FE 3.4 swap. I would like to do the same swap in a ‘79 to ‘83 truck. Did you fab your own engine mounts? How was hood clearance?

I suppose these questions will be answered when you drop the 3.4 in this truck

Great job either way. It’s going to be a very cool rig!

 

[aztoyman]

I did a VERY detailed swap thread on Yotatech. The post is still there but the pictures are all gone. Unfortunately I lost a lot of the pics in a hard drive crash. I still have some of them though.

I did make my own motor mounts. Very simple. Lowered the engine a little so I could close the hood. The trade off is less clearance before things hit the oil pan. T-100 oil pan by the way.

I might have to cut the hood this time? It all depends on how the 3 link fits. I don't want a body lift. I do want maximum flex so on this build I will probably be cutting some sheet metal. We'll see.

My milling machine project is almost done. Waiting for a bearing. I'm "hoping" to get my garage reorganized tomorrow. Then I'm back on the build.

You can PM me for any questions or I can post up whatever I have to your swap thread if you have one.

 

[aztoyman]

Ok, FINALLY finished my milling machine and got it out of the way. I'll probably be putting it to work on this build.

 

[aztoyman]

Got the front axle on the bench and in position to mount the brackets.

Instructions say to position it so an angle finder on the trunnion bearings reads 6 degrees. The brackets are cut so well that they almost fall into the proper position. Angle finder on top of brackets should read 4 degrees and they did.

Center to center between the lower link flanges should be 34 1/2". Had to shift a bit and tack weld them.

I'll get back on it tomorrow.

 

[aztoyman]

I'm going to have to get the cab painted ASAP or I'm going to be stuck.

Any body and paint guys on MUD in AZ?

I'd like to do it myself but I'm really not setup to paint. No room mainly. If I can get at least the cab prepped and in primer, I can paint the engine bay and inside the cab.

 

[aztoyman]

I have tried several times to get back on this build but kept having something come up. One of them was spending a week on the beach in Mexico so THAT was my fault.

I still haven't decided what to do about paint but I'm moving on. I have to cut fender wells and trans tunnel anyway. Why tear up a new paint job?

So I got the axle brackets all tacked up where they're supposed to be. The housing is still bare though. Here's my plan starting tomorrow.

The garage is cleaned up and ready for me to pull the 88 in to pull the engine, trans and cases. Then I need to move the truck back out so I have room to work. It's going to be a challenge since I have a sloped driveway. I also have to keep it looking like a complete truck or the HOA will get me.

Once I get it moved back out I will pull all my good axle parts and the front diff out and put the OEM 85 parts on so it still looks like a complete running truck. See HOA comment above. Then I need to get my steering knuckles on for test fitting the axle location. I also have to flip the tie rod under.

I have all the parts on hand to reseal a few things and replace the timing belt and such.

I need to use my TG skid plate T-case crossmember to locate my powertrain and fab up some motor mounts. Then I need to fabricate or buy a FROR style T-case mount so I can drop the TG plate. That's where the lower link brackets have to mount. The engine trans location MAY need to move as needed for clearance so it wont be welded solid yet.

This build is going to take a while. I've only see a couple posts on the 4Wheelunderground 3 link installation so I'm going to do my best to cover more details.

 

[aztoyman]

I went through all the parts and matched up rod ends with tube adapters and bolts. Deburred the ID of the tubes and test fit things.

One thing I wish I saw BEFORE I tacked brackets to the axle housing is the lack of a bolt hole for the panhard bar. It would have been much easier to drill the 5/8" hole on the drill press instead of on the work bench with a cordless HAND drill.

The lower link frame brackets need to be bent to fit. I found installing the front bolt to hold it up and using a C-clamp to form the bend worked well. The rear hole got close but needed a little work to get the bolt in. Even after the bend was in place.

Basically the rear of the vertical section is right where the frame curves a bit. Putting the clamps on pulled it exactly where it needs to be.

Here's a few pics. They have to come back off until I get another crossmember in place but they're ready to go back on easily.

 

[aztoyman]

The lower frame brackets

 

[Broski]

Looking good, If your still looking for someone to do the Paint @kelly saad may be you guy. I have not used him but from what I see he does good work

 

[aztoyman]

Mission accomplished. I have a LOT to do now. Thanks for the tip Broski. I might have a local option.

The only snag I ran into was I maxed out the crane and couldn't clear the radiator support. Got lucky by just letting air out of the front tires.

 

[aztoyman]

I got my 88 rolled down the driveway and over a couple spots. Pushed it back up with the wife's FJ Cruiser. Time to really get busy.

I washed the engine down with some orange citrus cleaner. It wasn't that dirty to start with fortunately.

Started on the timing belt replacement and associated parts. The long block is a 2002 and it looks pretty good but now's the time to do it.

Someone asked about the 3.4 swap so here's a picture of the exhaust. I cut the stock pipes, flipped them and rewelded them. They were from my 1999 4Runner donor. The later style wasn't as good for the mod.

 

[aztoyman]

I got the front of the engine back together. I could have run it like it was but I figured now is the time to freshen it up while it's out.

There were no leaks at the front main or camshaft seals. Water pump ok.

The only thing that could have turned into a problem was the pivot roller near the tensioner. It was stuck. The timing belt is still flexible but there was a lot of rubber dust/crumbs so maybe it was time to change it.

Someone on MUD had mentioned a good seller on eBay for the kit. Aircabinman. Here's what came in the kit.

He even substituted a shorter alternator belt that I needed for the engine swap.

 

[aztoyman]

Here's the part number for the shorter belt. I needed it so it would clear the steering shaft. It is short enough that a new un-stretched belt barely goes on. Even loosening up the adjuster all the way. I ran it for a long time so I know it works.

I'm going to mention any 3.4 swap info since I've been asked.

You can also see the 3.0 water outlet needed.

 

[aztoyman]

The original Toyota water pump has a grooved gasket surface and used FIPG to seal. The new AISIN pump is flat and uses a metal gasket with a rubber bead. Several of the mounting bolts go directly into the water jacket so I used sealer on the threads.

 

[aztoyman]

Here's another look. All quality parts. I have a TG power steering pump on now for my power assist ram. The original pump was on when I first did the engine swap.

I also used the stock 3.4 motor mounts from the 99 4Runner donor.

There are swap mounts available and some people use 3.0 mounts so you have some options.

 

[aztoyman]

I had black oil dripping from my bell housing so I thought it was the rear main seal.

 

[aztoyman]

So I pulled the clutch and flywheel to change it. NO oil here.

 

[aztoyman]

Here's the culprit. I think the oil was black from clutch dust mixing with the oil. I started cleaning up the parts. Hopefully get it together tomorrow. The seal surface on the shaft looks good.

 

[aztoyman]

I started to just drain the oil and realized I JUST changed the oil. This stuff is EXPENSIVE so I "reclaimed" it. Close call .

 

[gnob]

HellZ ya.