- Thread starter
- #481
Here it is clamped in position for testing position for the cans.
Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter aztoyman
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #482
After I pulled it for final welding of the can to the bracket I had to mark it and cut it off again so I could cover a void that I don't want to leave open. It would easily fill with dirt and water. Plus it looks bad.
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- #483
I used a piece of 2 1/4" exhaust tube to make a filler piece. It probably doesn't matter but I put the hole for the bump pin to the outside. I also made sure I could get my nitrogen chuck on.
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- #484
Nothing is fully welded but the bumps are clamped on and I cycled the suspension and rechecked.
- Thread starter
- #485
Then I decided that I have concerns with the lower shock mounts I made. They are centered on the lower link bolts and therefore can rotate out of position if the bolts ever come loose. If that happens (bolts DO come loose) it could possibly be very bad for the shock.
Also, the up travel is near the horizontal position of the links. The droop is further and in the arc of the travel so the shock springs get too close to the front side of the tower.
So I decided to make a different set of lower shock mounts.
Again I made cardboard patterns and cut them out of 1/4" steel. Here's a comparison of the two.
Also, the up travel is near the horizontal position of the links. The droop is further and in the arc of the travel so the shock springs get too close to the front side of the tower.
So I decided to make a different set of lower shock mounts.
Again I made cardboard patterns and cut them out of 1/4" steel. Here's a comparison of the two.
- Thread starter
- #486
So now the shock is centered behind the link bolt. A better position for the shock at full droop and even with the bolt loose it does NOT rotate forward. I tried. I also left material on the backside for now in case I decide to add a hold down bolt.
- Thread starter
- #487
I realize that the towers would be stronger with triangulation but straight up will fit between the bed braces that are directly alongside the tower. There will be a cross member at frame level and a removable one on top. Plus frame plating added soon.
I also found that being so narrow doesn't leave much room for the tool to adjust the spring.
I had ordered the spanner wrench for this shock twice. Supply chain issues and order cancelled both times so I made one.
Here's pics of the one I made and how much I had to trim it to fit my narrow towers.
I also found that being so narrow doesn't leave much room for the tool to adjust the spring.
I had ordered the spanner wrench for this shock twice. Supply chain issues and order cancelled both times so I made one.
Here's pics of the one I made and how much I had to trim it to fit my narrow towers.
- Thread starter
- #488
So I need to make the passenger side lower shock mount, plate the frame forward of the towers and fab up some cross members. Then cut the bed and get it mounted over the towers. Slowly but surely.
Dude holy s*** my brain just fell out.
Rear CO towers are more of a pain than fronts when you are tying to keep the bed useable. Good thing with links, there is very little stress on section of the frame. Only thing I reccomend is welding a recovery point on the axle and none on the frame if you no longer have a fully boxed frame.
I can see the CO's tilt to center, but cant tell how much. Did you put an angle finder on them at ride height yet?
I can see the CO's tilt to center, but cant tell how much. Did you put an angle finder on them at ride height yet?
- Thread starter
- #491
@peacesells63 they are at 10 degrees inboard. Is there a spec for that? It's also what the fronts are.
I am going to beef up the rear section of frame but not until I decide on a fuel tank.
A recovery point on the axle is not out of the question. In addition to this link truss I have a Ruff Stuff back brace. Because it needs to be trimmed to fit with the truss, it won't go on until I set pinion angle. When it's on the ground/tires under it's own weight. (I can leave the link parts as is and rotate the housing only. It's just tacked.)
I am going to beef up the rear section of frame but not until I decide on a fuel tank.
A recovery point on the axle is not out of the question. In addition to this link truss I have a Ruff Stuff back brace. Because it needs to be trimmed to fit with the truss, it won't go on until I set pinion angle. When it's on the ground/tires under it's own weight. (I can leave the link parts as is and rotate the housing only. It's just tacked.)
Thats great, 10-15 degrees is the sweet spot for what you are doing.
I love how this is your first time with a build like this, but somehow you are doing everything right
What are your fuel tank ideas? I always ended up moving the tank behind the axle, but that was only due to conveinence.
I love how this is your first time with a build like this, but somehow you are doing everything right
What are your fuel tank ideas? I always ended up moving the tank behind the axle, but that was only due to conveinence.
- Thread starter
- #493
I have seen that the Ford pickup tanks are supposed to be a good fit behind the axle. I may see if I can find a place for my original tank or maybe even fab one. I'm trying to keep weight low mounted and toward center of truck as much as possible.
Same for the battery I still have to mount. The hump in the passenger side cab floor for the factory fuel tank looks like a possibility for the battery. Access would have to be from the cab though. Undecided at this point.
I have flopped on my side once and had some close calls rolling so I'm trying to keep the CG as low as I can. It makes me feel the need for a cage, yet my buddies with the cages are the ones flipping the most. Decisions decisions.
I'll end up figuring out the tank and battery soon. Before the bed goes back on.
Same for the battery I still have to mount. The hump in the passenger side cab floor for the factory fuel tank looks like a possibility for the battery. Access would have to be from the cab though. Undecided at this point.
I have flopped on my side once and had some close calls rolling so I'm trying to keep the CG as low as I can. It makes me feel the need for a cage, yet my buddies with the cages are the ones flipping the most. Decisions decisions.
I'll end up figuring out the tank and battery soon. Before the bed goes back on.
ntsqd
technerd
How big of a fuel tank do you think that you want?
Gasoline runs about 6.7 lbs per gallon. I use a factor of three in static calcs to account for dynamic loadings. If you design the fuel tank supporting structure with 20 lbs/gal in mind you should be good to go. Which is to say that if you're wanting to use that 38 gal Ford rear tank under the bed that you should probably turn those c/o mounts into being part of a truss to support the rear of the frame. At which point I wouldn't worry about having recovery points on the rear of the frame.
Gasoline runs about 6.7 lbs per gallon. I use a factor of three in static calcs to account for dynamic loadings. If you design the fuel tank supporting structure with 20 lbs/gal in mind you should be good to go. Which is to say that if you're wanting to use that 38 gal Ford rear tank under the bed that you should probably turn those c/o mounts into being part of a truss to support the rear of the frame. At which point I wouldn't worry about having recovery points on the rear of the frame.
- Thread starter
- #495
I didn't realize the Ford tank was 38 gallons. I don't need that much fuel. The stock 17 gallons was always plenty for whatever I did. I have ZERO engineering training so static calcs and dynamic loading are out of my skill set. I do know I can't leave the rear of my frame like it is.
I also prefer to keep my Toyota pump and fuel level sender.
Feedback is always welcome and appreciated.
I also prefer to keep my Toyota pump and fuel level sender.
Feedback is always welcome and appreciated.
ntsqd
technerd
That is the big Ford tank, there is a smaller one that I *think* is around 19 gallons.
I mostly mentioned the weight involved for your "eyeballic engineering." The looking at what you're thinking to build and evaluating if it will be strong enough without going into more formal engineering methods. And that 3X factor really only applies to when you do something like bottom out or nearly so. Then that filled full 19 gallon tank will "weigh" ~400 lbs., the rest of the time it will only weigh ~150 lbs.
I mostly mentioned the weight involved for your "eyeballic engineering." The looking at what you're thinking to build and evaluating if it will be strong enough without going into more formal engineering methods. And that 3X factor really only applies to when you do something like bottom out or nearly so. Then that filled full 19 gallon tank will "weigh" ~400 lbs., the rest of the time it will only weigh ~150 lbs.
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- #497
I didn't get on the truck until late this afternoon. I did manage to cut out all my pieces to build the other lower shock mount. I'll get it welded up and installed tomorrow hopefully.
I also decided that I don't want to install a fuel tank behind my axle. That area is too vulnerable. Plus I don't really want to deal with a non Toyota fuel sender and pump. I looked at a bunch of fuel cells too.
I made a tentative decision to just use my stock tank. Recessed halfway into the bed floor as far forward as possible and centered.
The measurements from the flange between the top and bottom sections are just right to clear the links at max stuff. And look at the angle. The yellow is my tape measure pulled across the top of the drive flanges. The drive shaft is well below the upper links and where the tank will sit.
Yes it is a bit higher mounted than I would like but better protected. Easier to access and will need minimal modifications. Unless I come up with a better idea, this is my plan.
I also decided that I don't want to install a fuel tank behind my axle. That area is too vulnerable. Plus I don't really want to deal with a non Toyota fuel sender and pump. I looked at a bunch of fuel cells too.
I made a tentative decision to just use my stock tank. Recessed halfway into the bed floor as far forward as possible and centered.
The measurements from the flange between the top and bottom sections are just right to clear the links at max stuff. And look at the angle. The yellow is my tape measure pulled across the top of the drive flanges. The drive shaft is well below the upper links and where the tank will sit.
Yes it is a bit higher mounted than I would like but better protected. Easier to access and will need minimal modifications. Unless I come up with a better idea, this is my plan.
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JuiceBox 
JMHO Crawling under the truck to attach to a recovery point on the axle won't be fun especially in the mud or snow and at times will be impossible.
There has to be a way to make to make the frame strong enough for one center recovery point on the back of the truck.
My friends 4runner with 4Wheel Underground suspension front and rear has a added frame cross member right at the rear shock towers from there some triangulated braces should do the trick
His rig was the most capable in our group at JV last weekend
There has to be a way to make to make the frame strong enough for one center recovery point on the back of the truck.
My friends 4runner with 4Wheel Underground suspension front and rear has a added frame cross member right at the rear shock towers from there some triangulated braces should do the trick
His rig was the most capable in our group at JV last weekend
- Thread starter
- #500
Hi Broski, thanks for the info. Looks like a Badda$$ truck. If I ever get a chance to get back on my build I am going to change my current setup. It is mostly clamped and tacked together so I could cycle the suspension.
Main reason to change it is to have a stronger rear frame. I DO want frame recovery points. I will be putting cross members between the shock towers top and bottom. I will be putting the cross member back in place between the lower link mounts as well. And....I'm going to see about tilting the top of the shocks in further, making new shock towers and getting rid of the open frame rail. I bought the steel, I need to find the time.
I've had SO much "life" hit me and the wife recently. Plus I have been working on everybody's stuff but my own. I have to chuckle when they ask me when I'm going to finish my build. WHILE I'm working on their stuff.
Main reason to change it is to have a stronger rear frame. I DO want frame recovery points. I will be putting cross members between the shock towers top and bottom. I will be putting the cross member back in place between the lower link mounts as well. And....I'm going to see about tilting the top of the shocks in further, making new shock towers and getting rid of the open frame rail. I bought the steel, I need to find the time.
I've had SO much "life" hit me and the wife recently. Plus I have been working on everybody's stuff but my own. I have to chuckle when they ask me when I'm going to finish my build. WHILE I'm working on their stuff.
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