Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (8 Viewers)

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I'm guessing that I should match the front so if that's not correct let me know. The front is set for 5" up travel at ride height.

So here is the rear tire at ride height. Which is 26" from floor to bottom of frame below doors.

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Matching the front seems like the way to go. The upper link bracket is almost touching the round tube cross brace that held the fuel tank. The fuel tank brackets need to go.

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I normally use a digital angle finder to set pinion angle. I set the pinion 1.5°-2° down from being at the same angle as the t/c's output flange. That is for leaf springs that I know are going to wrap a bit under load.
 
I usually set it with the drive shaft in place. So I wasn't sure how to do it without.

So my output flange is pointed down 4 degrees from level. What would the angle be on the pinion flange?
 
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For it to be perfectly aligned the pinion should be pointing up 4°, but you'll want some tolerance for suspension wind-up so somewhere between 2° up and 3° up would be my guess. Since linkage is new to me, I'm not sure just how much you need to allow for. With the adjustment possible in the links you may want to set it at 4° up (flange faces parallel to each other) and then adjust it once you're driving the truck. Parallel flange faces under load is what you're shooting for.
 
I'm figuring out this bodywork stuff as I go. I figured I need a good guide to cut along so I used some 3/4" wide masking tape I have on hand.

I used one strip to follow the original line and a second one so I can bend a flange back in it.

I just used my die grinder with a cut off wheel.

I'll see about getting the flange bent hopefully tomorrow.

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Today I bent the other half of my tape line under to form a flange similar to what I cut off.

Here's my home grown method. I just used this Vise Grip tool on the top flat section and a Crescent wrench on the curves and slowly worked in around little by little.

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I finally got it all worked over, used a hammer and dolly along the edge and was pretty happy it still looks like the original opening, just bigger.

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Wouldn’t a 1 inch strip of sheet metal welded along the inside of your cut line be easier and cleaner?
 
As soon as I start drooping the other side it hits on top. And this is a worn 35. Obviously I'm not done trimming.

I'm thinking I'm going to hold off further cutting until I get a new 37" tire but continue with the suspension install.

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Never mind. I just saw your finished work. It turned out real good. I hadn’t seen the other posts
 
SFROMAN, What do you mean? Weld in a strip behind the top layer INSTEAD of rolling the edge? Like I mentioned earlier, I'm no body man and I'm totally winging it. I'm definitely open to suggestions though.
 
My thought was that you could cut a piece of 14 gauge sheet metal inch wide and about 3-4 feet long. Then you could weld it on the inside of your cut line. The new piece would reinforce your cut line and make the new cut up bed more rigid because the new metal strip would essentially be replacing the piece you cut off.

But honestly, it looks perfectly fine the way you did it.
 
You can see this bed is BEAT. It's not going to be a show winner. I just don't want it to look like a hacked up mess. Well, I'm ALREADY hacking it up. I just want to do a good job. :p
 

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