85 60 full desmog, sniper, & tuned headers - questions and progress (4 Viewers)

[brownjeans]

Okay. I know there are a few threads out there and I've read them but still have questions - and will likely have more as I progress with the project. Here's what I'm doing:

After running great for years, my mostly stock '85 FJ60 has started running poorly. I figured 50 years old, ethonol fuel, etc. - time and conditions have taken a toll. With a lot of parts not available anymore, and to simplify and improve reliability, I decided to do a total desmog and switch to a sniper. I've had a set of tuned headers that I bought at a great price several years ago but have been sitting in my garage. I thought I'd put them on since I have most everything off.
I've purchased a ton of parts that should be replaced "while I'm at it." (hoses, etc.)
I purchased a Mosley Motors sniper kit and the sniper from them too. These arrive this weekend.
So far I've removed all the smog stuff, the vacuum cannister, vacuum lines, carb, and both manifolds. I am a grade C mechanic who can replace most things, can follow instructions and service manuals okay. I can service knuckes. I have no training. This is going to stretch my abilities.
I plan to take the intake and headers to a machine shop to ensure they are flat and of equal thickness for successful mounting.
I'm looking to reduce the vacuum lines to only those that are needed for best operation.
Questions I have so far:

• On the intake manifold, firewall side, there is a thing that sticks up that has cooling fins/discs on it and two vac lines out the top. Do I need it? If not, does anyone have a recommended method of plugging the hole?
• On the intake manifold, radiator side, there is a stubby thing with three vac lines coming off of it. Do I need this? If not, does anyone have a recommended method of plugging the hole?
• There are three vac line nipples on the distributer (planing to use the stock distributer for now), one on the cap, and two on the metal thing that sits on the side (an inner and outer nipple). Which do I use for vac advance? What happens with the other two?
• I've read the VCV, PCV, charcoal canister, vacuum advance, and brake booster are all I need to consider for vacuum lines - is that right?

Thanks - I'll provide updates. I'm sure I'll have more questions.

As I disassembeled things, I was shocked at how many little things were broken. Wires melted. Plastic vacuum things broken. Hoses crumbling. A manifold bolt totally missing. Kind of impressed it was running at all.

 

[brownjeans]

Has anyone ever swapped the OEM manifold hardware to all studs and nuts instead of the OEM bolts? Bad idea? Leaky?

 

[kirvesmies]

@brownjeans , an emissions service manual is available on line. I believe in the resources heading at the top of the page. That should answer most of your queries. One ? I can answer is that line off the distributer cap is the vent for the cap, it goes to filter type thing in the cabin. Behind heater assembly I recall right. May the mechanical deities smile on your project

 

[brownjeans]

@brownjeans , an emissions service manual is available on line. I believe in the resources heading at the top of the page. That should answer most of your queries. One ? I can answer is that line off the distributer cap is the vent for the cap, it goes to filter type thing in the cabin. Behind heater assembly I recall right. May the mechanical deities smile on your project

That's good to know on the cap. From my research I think the vac advance is the inner nipple on the metal thing on the side of the distributer. It looks like people usually cap the outer one.

 

[brownjeans]

• On the intake manifold, firewall side, there is a thing that sticks up that has cooling fins/discs on it and two vac lines out the top. Do I need it? If not, does anyone have a recommended method of plugging the hole?

Okay, so I found out what this thing is. I thought I'd share for future readers (and in case I'm wrong).
This thing (PNC 44730F union) provides vacuum for the brake booster (via large vacuum hose straight out the top of this) and if you have AC then the small vacuum line that comes off of this goes to an idle-up solenoid pnc 88691 mounted inside the driver side fender that kicks the carb into a higher idle when the AC clutch is engaging the AC.

...but, new question. The sniper has a port on it for the brake booster, so I guess I can run a line from the sniper to the booster? Sniper also has a small port for manifold vacuum that could run to the AC solenoid. But how does the sniper know it needs to idle up when the AC kicks on? Is that still done with vacuum (if so where does the vacuum line attach), or is it done with electrical wiring (and no more need for the solenoid)?

Thanks in advance if someone posts the answer, otherwise I will post when I find out.

 

[Pighead]

Has anyone ever swapped the OEM manifold hardware to all studs and nuts instead of the OEM bolts? Bad idea? Leaky?

I do that. But with an earlier ('74) head and an earlier ('69) intake manifold on a 2F block and with OEM hardware. Sometimes a bolt might be easier but I just like studs & nuts better.

 

[Pighead]

From my research I think the vac advance is the inner nipple on the metal thing on the side of the distributer.

Probably both of those diaphragms provide timing advance when they get vacuum and can hold it. One, I've heard, is for High Altitude and the other is for every day. I forget which is which. When I got my big cap dizzy neither diaphragm held vacuum. I got a whole new Toyota replacement vacuum actuator with a single diaphragm that fit and works from @4Cruisers and put that on. Easy swap and I had only one vacuum line from the carb to the dizzy anyway.

 

[1911]

Probably both of those diaphragms provide timing advance when they get vacuum and can hold it. One, I've heard, is for High Altitude and the other is for every day. I forget which is which.

View attachment 3987124

The inside one is for "every day", and the outside one is additional advance for the High Altitude Compensation system.

 

[brownjeans]

...but, new question. The sniper has a port on it for the brake booster, so I guess I can run a line from the sniper to the booster? Sniper also has a small port for manifold vacuum that could run to the AC solenoid. But how does the sniper know it needs to idle up when the AC kicks on? Is that still done with vacuum (if so where does the vacuum line attach), or is it done with electrical wiring (and no more need for the solenoid)?

From the Sniper instruction manual:

For the A/C kick, maybe if I take the wires that work the solenoid and connect them to the orange and gray wires... ???

Anyone have a sniper install with a functioning A/C kick? How'd you do it?

 

[Pighead]

...but, new question. The sniper has a port on it for the brake booster, so I guess I can run a line from the sniper to the booster?

Why? Is there a problem with your brakes too? Is Sniper vacuum better than manifold vacuum?

 

[brownjeans]

Why? Is there a problem with your brakes too? Is Sniper vacuum better than manifold vacuum?

My brakes actually work really well. I overhauled my steering and brakes a couple years ago - even made some new hard lines (some of the old hardware was so corroded the hardlines broke). My fj60 brakes and steers way better than my 80.

I think the sniper vacuum IS manifold vacuum. So you could either run a hose from the sniper, or the ray gun looking thing, and it would be the same.
The ray gun looking thing is right next to the brake booster hard line so using that would be a more direct, cleaner install.
But maybe the sniper brake port is better for the sniper system - better vacuum control or something.
It probably doesn't matter...

 

[Pighead]

My brakes actually work really well. I overhauled my steering and brakes a couple years ago - even made some new hard lines (some of the old hardware was so corroded the hardlines broke). My fj60 brakes and steers way better than my 80.

I think the sniper vacuum IS manifold vacuum. So you could either run a hose from the sniper, or the ray gun looking thing, and it would be the same.
The ray gun looking thing is right next to the brake booster hard line so using that would be a more direct, cleaner install.
But maybe the sniper brake port is better for the sniper system - better vacuum control or something.
It probably doesn't matter...

Personally, I would never use "I think" and "probably" when talking about my brakes. If your brakes are working really well leave them out of the sniper conversion. Get the sniper working perfectly and do some research and worry about the cleaning it up for last.

 

[onemanarmy]

With the Sniper (or any fuel injection kit) the AC idle up is elec controlled

Your brake booster line just needs to connect to a 'large' manifold port after your fuel intake source (carb or TBI)

 

[brownjeans]

Personally, I would never use "I think" and "probably" when talking about my brakes. If your brakes are working really well leave them out of the sniper conversion. Get the sniper working perfectly and do some research and worry about the cleaning it up for last.

There is wisdom here. I think I'll stick with the ray gun thing since it has been working well and if I take that off I'll have to find a stubby bolt to plug the hole in the manifold where the booster used to pull vacuum.

But for reference to others who are doing this, here's a photo of a 40 with the brake booster pulling vacuum from the Sniper brake vacuum port:

 

[brownjeans]

Compression test: 150 to 155 on all pistons. Seems pretty good for a 40-year old engine.
Removed the valve cover to confirm the clearances are all good and it's pretty sludgy in there. Anyone have a good way to clean that up? What to use/not use?

 

[Rustyj41]

From the Sniper instruction manual:
View attachment 3987263
View attachment 3987269

For the A/C kick, maybe if I take the wires that work the solenoid and connect them to the orange and gray wires... ???

Anyone have a sniper install with a functioning A/C kick? How'd you do it?

I have a sniper worth working A/C. The sniper will sense the drop in rpm and self correct. I didn’t need to mess with the kick input at all.

 

[brownjeans]

I have a sniper worth working A/C. The sniper will sense the drop in rpm and self correct. I didn’t need to mess with the kick input at all.

This is awesome! I can check wiring the A/C kick off my list. Thank you for responding.

 

[brownjeans]

My Sniper temp sensor doesn't fit. Not on the head where the old temp sensor was, nor in the block where the block drain is located.
I've ordered an adapter from redline. I hope it works.
I'd like to be able to run both senders. Put the Sniper one in the drain location, and keep the stock sender so the dash guage works.

 

[brownjeans]

Redline adapter worked. The sniper temp sender fits on to of the head now. I'm placing the Toyota temp sender where the block drain plug was to keep my dash gauge working.

 

[Rustyj41]

Redline adapter worked. The sniper temp sender fits on to of the head now. I'm placing the Toyota temp sender where the block drain plug was to keep my dash gauge working.

Mine is in the thermostat housing since I deleted the smog stuff.