8274 getting hot what do you think?

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I had rebuilt my older 8274 last winter. I have used it a few times, worked fine. Just noticed though that the "A" post. on the motor. the one farthest to the right and alone. of the three posts has gotton so hot it has melted away the rubber / plastic boot? What gives. I cleaned it up with a wire wheel and still the same thing very very damn hot.

Also the winch bogged down and quit while trying to pull out a juniper bush. I was on the brakes of the 40, and the truck did not even skid across the gravel driveway the winch just flat out stopped pulling. So what gives?

I know the solinoids are probably shot. they are cheap ford ones, not rated for cont. duty.

But what would make that one post so hot. if you pull the controler cover off, its the large cable that is bolted to the upper right solinoid and then to the "a" post on the winch motor.


Thanks. Time for a new motor??????????
 
You've got resistance somewhere. Either bad (corroded) connections, incorrect solenoid (my guess) or the lead from the solenoid to the motor.

All of this assumes your motor is O.K.
 
Thats a good call on the Solenoids. I read through your write up on the rebuild, VERY NICE. I will order some new ones this week and see if that doesnt cure the problem.

I am running "0" welding cable from the batter and for the main ground. and all of the connectors are clean and shiny.

I will report back once the new solinoids come in.
 
Just noticed though that the "A" post. on the motor. the one farthest to the right and alone. of the three posts has gotton so hot it has melted away the rubber / plastic boot? What gives.

Look right there. Could have a loose or corroded connection inside our outside the motor at that post.

How is the condition of the battery? When you are winching, what is the voltage at the battery, and at the hot post? Check your ground wire between the battery and chassis, and the grounds for the winch too. Replace any corroded connections.
 
Well I think I made some progress. I soldered in all of my welding wire. The main from the battery and the grounding cable. I cleaned up all of the connnections, basically anything brass got hit with the wire wheel of the bench grinder. I replaced the upper right most solinoid with a spare, This is the solinoid that ends up on the "a" post. Put everything back together. Works much faster. and no more hot cable at this point!!

The battery was weak, the engine has sat all winter, and I have jump started my wifes honda spree off of the battery about 65 times messing with that. so I had to put the charger on it.

I think life is good for right now. I will know more when I can pull the truck out and see if the winch will pull the 40 while I am standing on the brakes.
 
I'm following this thread closely, because my XD9000i was doing the same thing. Mine was burning the rubber boot and making a strange click. Now the winch feels 'weak'. Hopefully I can trouble shoot it this weekend. I hope the motors not toasted.
 
The ground may have had something to do with it. The winch is grounded to one of the screws that hold the motor in place. (I know thats not a good ground at all) and then back to the frame via one of the bolts that hold a tow hook to the frame. I cleaned all the metal everywhere, That seemed to help.

also I am pretty sure one of the 4 solinoids was bad. This solinoid (upper right) was also the one where one of the short cables attached to the "a" post of the motor. I also had melted boot syndrome.

after I replaced the solinoid and cleaned everything I powered it out and in a few times. the post was not hot or even warm. Albeit it was 40 degrees in the garage. But its a bit faster now. The real test will be if it pulls the truck with me standing on the brakes in the gravel driveway. If it still quits or bogs down bad, I will look into a new upgraded motor and 4 new solinoids and be done with it.

So far with its Winch 4 Juniper bushes 0:)
 
The ground may have had something to do with it. The winch is grounded to one of the screws that hold the motor in place. (I know thats not a good ground at all) and then back to the frame via one of the bolts that hold a tow hook to the frame. I cleaned all the metal everywhere, That seemed to help.

also I am pretty sure one of the 4 solinoids was bad. This solinoid (upper right) was also the one where one of the short cables attached to the "a" post of the motor. I also had melted boot syndrome.

after I replaced the solinoid and cleaned everything I powered it out and in a few times. the post was not hot or even warm. Albeit it was 40 degrees in the garage. But its a bit faster now. The real test will be if it pulls the truck with me standing on the brakes in the gravel driveway. If it still quits or bogs down bad, I will look into a new upgraded motor and 4 new solinoids and be done with it.

So far with its Winch 4 Juniper bushes 0:)


That'll teach those damn junipers! :D

The ground for the winch is very important. I advise folks to never ground your winch anywhere except to the battery itself.

The motor has a flat spot with a tapped hole for a 5/16-18 bolt on the bottom side in the middle, this should be your ground connection to the motor.

Hook both positive and negative leads directly to your battery, make sure all connections are clean and the battery is charged and check those solenoids.

I expect you'll have a grin on your face next time you use your 8274.
 
It is not the solenoid if the motor lug is getting hot. The heat comes from the voltage drop across a resistor, so the resistance has to be close to the motor lug or whatever is heating up too much.
 
How can you test the solenoids? I use mine today to pull a big rig out and then it just died? Im useing a red top optima. In a few days it will start working again. All power and ground is going strate to the battery.
 
It is not the solenoid if the motor lug is getting hot. The heat comes from the voltage drop across a resistor, so the resistance has to be close to the motor lug or whatever is heating up too much.



The motor lug getting hot simply means it is the area of "greatest" resistance. It doesn't mean there is none present elsewhere.

We want to try to eliminate as much resistance as possible through the entire circuit... for sake of efficiency.

That is why he needs to check every component and every connection.
 
Okay, Got to use it yesterday on waht was left of a 400 pound concrete encased piece of laundry pole burried 5 feet down.

Pretty happy with the results. I was on the pavement and started to power in, The suspension sank down a bit on the 40, and then it started to drag the 40 with all 4 35" tires locked across dry concrete:)

I ended up putting it in 4 low and yanking it out backwards. But the winch did most of the work.

I do have 0 welding cable, soldered and hooked directly from the battery for power. and for ground from the winch to the frame. I will see about running the gound back to the batter. Its a cheapo autodrone battery, a few years old.

The "A" lug which was getting hot was only mildly warm after a good 5 mins of use in and out. I think / hope the problem is cured at least for the time being. I will also scout out that lug on the back of the motor to better ground it.

Thanks for all the help and advice. This is one of the best sites on the web.
 
Okay, Got to use it yesterday on waht was left of a 400 pound concrete encased piece of laundry pole burried 5 feet down.

Pretty happy with the results. I was on the pavement and started to power in, The suspension sank down a bit on the 40, and then it started to drag the 40 with all 4 35" tires locked across dry concrete:)

I ended up putting it in 4 low and yanking it out backwards. But the winch did most of the work.

I do have 0 welding cable, soldered and hooked directly from the battery for power. and for ground from the winch to the frame. I will see about running the gound back to the batter. Its a cheapo autodrone battery, a few years old.

The "A" lug which was getting hot was only mildly warm after a good 5 mins of use in and out. I think / hope the problem is cured at least for the time being. I will also scout out that lug on the back of the motor to better ground it.

Thanks for all the help and advice. This is one of the best sites on the web.



Sounds good Z!

Take that ground straight to the battery, and hook up the lug underneath the motor (right in the center) and you should be good to go.

Happiness is strong pulling winch! ;)
 
Roger that, I forgot to mention the neighbor guy watching this post extraction go down. I think at first he thought what the f... is he doing now? This after the first time he saw the 40 roll down the street with only an exhaust header on.

after the extraction he knew I feared no juniper, and that I could pull the doors off his Subaru if I really wanted to.
 

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