8274-50 winch click....click....click.... (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Nov 5, 2006
Threads
372
Messages
1,187
Title says it all. the battery is good. With the VOM meter I tested between the (+) & (-) terminals battery and get 12.45 volts.

I then test between the battery (-) terminal and the (+) lead on the relays and I get 12.45 volts. So I think that tells me the power is getting to the relays.

I then touch the (+) on the relays and the (-) under the relay box (the ground), and get 12.45. I think this tells me the ground is good on the relay box.

Things don't look really dirty, but do I need to start taking the relay connections apart and cleaning each connection ?
P5230238.jpg
 
Do you have voltage after the relays?

I don't know that winch well... But brushes?
 
Both directions or just one?
 
Just because you get a good voltage reading (at no load) doesn't mean you have a solid ground. I'm just saying. I've seen cases on starters where you can get good voltages and can measure good continuity, but the ground quality won't allow the current needed under load.

Not sure that this is the problem, but something to consider.

Rocky
 
just to clarify, all voltage testing was with the engine off, and with the remore controller unplugged.

Just testing current to the unit, not testing the relays themselves by triggering in/out with the controller. (cuse I know it just goes click . . . . )

I think the place to start is still remove and clean the ground @ the bottom of the unit. Seems like most of my problems are ground related. If that does not work, I guess I am taking all the relay connections off and flushing them with alcohol.
 
My problem on my winch when the relays just clicked was a grounding issue. Like you suspect, check the grounds.
 
High resistance connections or contacts in the solenoids, check and clean everything, if no good replace defective solenoids.. You can measure voltage drop across the solenoids high current terminals.. If drop is excessive, replace solenoid.
 
Throw the solenoids away and get an albright solenoid - you can mount it anywhere, they are waterproof and compact - they are awesome.

Louis
 
Thought I might revive this old thread, as I am still trying (not very persistantly) to fix this winch.

All solenoids are "clicking", has good ground and good 12 volt. Tested with a VOM and all solenoids are opening.

Trying to think what would keep it from going BOTH directions. Does not seem that would indicate a bad solenoid.

Does not free spool with the clutch out. Hooked the winch up on the FZJ80, and could not pull the cable out of the 8274 with the other winch !!

Is it possible that there is a mechanical bind that is keeping the winch from doing more than clicking under its own power?
 
Thought I might revive this old thread, as I am still trying (not very persistantly) to fix this winch.

All solenoids are "clicking", has good ground and good 12 volt. Tested with a VOM and all solenoids are opening.

Trying to think what would keep it from going BOTH directions. Does not seem that would indicate a bad solenoid.

Does not free spool with the clutch out. Hooked the winch up on the FZJ80, and could not pull the cable out of the 8274 with the other winch !!

Is it possible that there is a mechanical bind that is keeping the winch from doing more than clicking under its own power?

If you watch the brake assembly it should loosen up when you pull the clutch. Just because you pull the knob out doesn't mean the brake mechanism doesn't meat the brake/clutch assembly is moving freely. It took me weeks to get one to free up and after trying a multitude of different penetrants/heat/ tapping the winning trick was a shot of castrol super clean on the affected parts. After a few minutes of fiddling around it freed up. This winch would power in and out but no freespool until I repaired it. The motor would overpower the brake.
You shouldn't have to force anything on these. You can test continuity on the solenoids when power is applied and if they don't have continuity then you need a replacement. If they are applying power to the motor then it may be the motor.
 
Just testing current to the unit, not testing the relays themselves by triggering in/out with the controller. (cuse I know it just goes click . . . . )

.

You are not testing current unless the motor is running. You are only testing for voltage and you can get fooled by looking at voltage on an open or unenergized circuit. On an open circuit, you can have full voltage even if there is a bad connection.

If the winch isn't running and is only making a clicking noise, determine if it does the same thing both in and out. If it only runs one way, chances are 1 solenoid is bad. If it won't run in either direction, either two or more solenoids are bad or the motor itself.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom