also they DO NOT need slotted rotors. whoever said that, well, they were wrong.
This.
just use regular rotors and 100 pads, with no squeal shims.......
This.
FWIW, I fitted the 100 pads in my 94, I was looking for better braking/wear. My discs were stock but in good condition. The pads fitted straight in as the backing plate is the same size. A common problem is when the pad (80 or 100) backing plate is punched out of sheet, you get a burr, this makes fitting a little tight, there may also be some minor casting differences in callipers but the pads will go in. If you do have the burr, then you should file/grind it off, the pads will fit straight in. I could not use the shims as it would have caused the pads to bind, this may be the cause of the aforementioned warping some people have experienced. If you need a hammer to get the pads in that may leave them binding, again back to the warping?
Pads should move freely in the calliper, the anti rattle clips should be fitted the right way up to work properly, look at the shape of the clip.
Pedal pressure for the same braking effort will be raised, this is due to the increased surface area. The pads did indeed last longer but by perhaps 3 - 4k miles? The amount of increased braking was not really detectable, again because you have to press the pedal a little harder it is quite subjective.
I eventually gave in and went for a full brake overhaul as I was still searching for better braking. Replaced everything except the ABS module, callipers, discs (drilled and slotted), pads, pipes, and the result? Bite is about the same (after some extensive bleeding), they take longer to heat up but will still fade if you push the car hard enough, too early to comment on wear as it was only done before Christmas last.
regards
Dave